As the title states, I received my NA Tune today and it requires a switched 12 volts. I was wondering if anyone knew of a good place near the airbox where I could get switched power? I don't want to run a big ugly wire all the way across the engine bay to the coil. I'm shooting for a nice clean install.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Horns...diagnostic plug

 

Alrighty I'll check it out when I get off work. I got everything installed and my car won't stay running I have the chip in correctly, MAF is temporarily connected to the coil just for testing purposes, and I tried jumping the DME relay with my jumper cables. Fuel pressure regulator/damper are brand new, as is the fuel filter. Battery is fully charged, spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor are brand new and hooked up correctly. I have lots of sparks and fuel. I have no oxygen sensor (threads in the exhaust pipe are destroyed so I'm running without it for now), but that shouldn't cause a start/die, right? I am quite sad now because I haven't driven my car in 3 months and I really want to get it out of the garage

 

try connecting it somewhere other then the coil.

 

I'd suggest you go ahead and call RogueAnt. He's easiest to contact in the evenings.

 

No o2 sensor would be a pretty big deal, there is no feedback to the ECU for it to base its maps on. You need an o2 sensor!!!!

 

RogueAnt has actually posted that his systems will run without an O2 sensor. Not idea, but they will run.

 

Just for you to note, The N-Tune and the M-Tune are basically the same in the software, just made for different cars. n/a, turbo. I think the DMEs are slightly different too. But anyway I ran my M-Tune with no o2 sensor (euro leaded spec car) and had 12:1 AFRs on partial throttle, cruising ect (basically anywhere the o2 is used aka closed loop) I put the o2 sensor on and it was close to 14.7:1 AFR

 

Yep the NA-Tune will run without the O2 sensor... Something else is going on.

The coil is a bad spot, as there is a lot of electrical noise. For temporary testing, you can just hook the sensor directly to the battery (remember to not leave it there!).

What year is your car? Note, all of my Tunes requires a 28pin DME. If you converted a 24pin DME, make sure you didn't miss the jumper-wire necessary.

Feel free to give me a call.

 

My car was built in 1988, so it has the 28 pin DME. I forgot to add in my post that my tach bounces too. I'll try hooking it up to the battery and let you know how it goes.

Where is the horn diagnostic plug? I believe the horns are behind the drivers side fog lamp correct? Is it near there? I'll poke around with my meeter and see if I can find 12 volts down there.

 

Does the car run with the stock AFM?

Also, you do not have any coding / impedance plugs hooked up - correct?

 

I tried hooking it up to the battery with no change. I can't test it with the AFM because The wiper arm for the AFM broke off. I can try my ghetto home made MAF to see if it will start with that. I don't have any coding / impedance plugs hooked up.

I will admit that I was stupid and installed the chip backwards because there was no indent that identified which way it to install it. I remembered seeing a picture of one of your chips installed on your website, so I went there and discovered that I had it in backwards. Could I have fried the chip? Is there a way to verify that the chip is still good?

Edit- Ghetto home made MAF works. It fired right up and reved nicely, so I'm pretty sure the chip is still good. I guess this narrows it down to the MAF sensor that came with the kit is bad or the wiring off of the sensor is bad.

 

Ok.
Easiest is to check the wiring - I suppose it is possible that I made a mistake wiring the plug-n-play harness.
Pull back the rubber boot to the plug-n-play wiring, and take a picture of the wires/colors - then send it to me via email.

 

Pictures sent.

???

 

Got them - the wiring looks correct.

Ok, lets check the MAF.
First, with the MAF plugged-in, and the key on, measure the voltage on the gray wire adjacent to the blue.

Next, measure the voltage on the blue wire. Now watching your voltmeter, blow into the MAF (you shouldn't have to take it out, just blow into the MAF inlet). The voltage should change; it should go up when you blow on it.