ok to mediablast hubs?
11-12-2001, 03:13 PM
#16
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Try "Metal Plating Shops," or "Plating" as search & Yellow Pages topics.
Anodzing is passing a mild DC (< 50 VDC?) current thru the part while it's submerged in an acidic solution (Coke or lemon juice will work, but poorly). This convertrs the surface to a non-porous form of aluminum oxide. IIRC, the final step is to put it in boiling water to seal it. Dyes & colorants can be added; I've read that Rit fabric dye will work in this step, but not as well as professional materials.
Somewhere there's a web-site for paint-ballers that gives the process steps, if somebody weants to search for it.
And _pure_ aluminum is way too soft & weak for most engineering applications, & can't be heat-hardened. Most Al alloy parts are solution heat-treated & aged; wrought parts may also be work-hardened in addition to this. Even these are too soft to be wearing parts (bearings, gears, etc.) for most applications.
Jim, "I think I just strained my brain; may I be excused?"
Anodzing is passing a mild DC (< 50 VDC?) current thru the part while it's submerged in an acidic solution (Coke or lemon juice will work, but poorly). This convertrs the surface to a non-porous form of aluminum oxide. IIRC, the final step is to put it in boiling water to seal it. Dyes & colorants can be added; I've read that Rit fabric dye will work in this step, but not as well as professional materials.
Somewhere there's a web-site for paint-ballers that gives the process steps, if somebody weants to search for it.
And _pure_ aluminum is way too soft & weak for most engineering applications, & can't be heat-hardened. Most Al alloy parts are solution heat-treated & aged; wrought parts may also be work-hardened in addition to this. Even these are too soft to be wearing parts (bearings, gears, etc.) for most applications.
Jim, "I think I just strained my brain; may I be excused?"
11-12-2001, 03:27 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok - someone mentioned CLEAR engine enamel...
Is this an option over anodizing?
I have some black engine enamel, but the knuckles/backing plates are black...
Is this an option over anodizing?
I have some black engine enamel, but the knuckles/backing plates are black...
11-12-2001, 04:31 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
the conclusion: Stupid boy forgot that anything blasted gets a dull finish. So much for the clean aluminum look! I'll be painting these black as well...
Thanks for the information!
Thanks for the information!
11-12-2001, 05:00 PM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
will clear anodizing restore the bright aluminum?
they are a dull grey (blasted aluminum) now.
I am certainly not opposed to anodizing, just am having trouble finding a source in my area (and don't want to sink my wallet into making the HUBS look pretty).
How much does it typically run/how long does the process typically take?
they are a dull grey (blasted aluminum) now.
I am certainly not opposed to anodizing, just am having trouble finding a source in my area (and don't want to sink my wallet into making the HUBS look pretty).
How much does it typically run/how long does the process typically take?
11-12-2001, 05:06 PM
#22
Drifting
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I have never done it. But according to Metal Fabricator's Handbook by Ron Fournier, you keep whatever shine you start with. I think you would have to polish them up first.
11-12-2001, 05:40 PM
#24
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If you are brave you could try it yourself. I found this a while back and I wonder. What do you think? Anodizing
I would probably pay someone, but it would be fun to try some chemistry experiments
Mark
'88 944S
I would probably pay someone, but it would be fun to try some chemistry experiments
Mark
'88 944S
11-12-2001, 09:47 PM
#25
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Mark, thanks for the link. I don't think that that site was up several years ago when I was researching DIY anodizing for our lab. It's the best I've seen, by far.
We're always looking for good low-cost hands-on labs for the students in metallurgy & manufacturing processes. We just happen to have several 32 VDC 50 amp power supplies (thanks, ITT Teves!)... now for some lead, plastic buckets, and aluminum wire...and some acid...
Jim, "Help! I'm melting!"
We're always looking for good low-cost hands-on labs for the students in metallurgy & manufacturing processes. We just happen to have several 32 VDC 50 amp power supplies (thanks, ITT Teves!)... now for some lead, plastic buckets, and aluminum wire...and some acid...
Jim, "Help! I'm melting!"
11-12-2001, 10:40 PM
#26
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Hi Keith-
I recently refinished my wheels. The alloy is 6061 I think. Machinable and can take heat treating. If you have them media blasted- have the shop do it with a fine mesh glass bead. Finish with walnut shell media. This will leave a very smooth finish that can be easily polished. There is a company out there- Eastwood I think, that sells about any tool known to the automotive enthusiast for doing this type of stuff, including powder coating. (Incidentally on my shopping list for Christmas.) Hope this helps.
I recently refinished my wheels. The alloy is 6061 I think. Machinable and can take heat treating. If you have them media blasted- have the shop do it with a fine mesh glass bead. Finish with walnut shell media. This will leave a very smooth finish that can be easily polished. There is a company out there- Eastwood I think, that sells about any tool known to the automotive enthusiast for doing this type of stuff, including powder coating. (Incidentally on my shopping list for Christmas.) Hope this helps.
11-13-2001, 09:59 AM
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hey Dave - saw your post a little late.
Painted the hubs last night with engine enamel. They actually had a color called Aluminum. Now they look like a$$....
Depressing.
Painted the hubs last night with engine enamel. They actually had a color called Aluminum. Now they look like a$$....
Depressing.
11-13-2001, 10:48 AM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
ok, found someone semi-local who anodizes...
they have a $67.00 minimum. I am assuming I have to remove the races and lugstuds to have this process done... plus remove the paint I applied and etc....
On another board, I am getting suggestions of E-coat, a powdercoating alternative (if I understand correctly)
This opens a new avenue for this little cleanup effort... anyone familiar with the pros/cons of each? Keeping in mind that these hubs will be subjected to heat and brake dust...?
they have a $67.00 minimum. I am assuming I have to remove the races and lugstuds to have this process done... plus remove the paint I applied and etc....
On another board, I am getting suggestions of E-coat, a powdercoating alternative (if I understand correctly)
This opens a new avenue for this little cleanup effort... anyone familiar with the pros/cons of each? Keeping in mind that these hubs will be subjected to heat and brake dust...?
11-13-2001, 11:27 AM
#30
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"I am assuming I have to remove the races and
lugstuds to have this process done... plus remove the paint I applied and etc...."
Pretty much for sure to all that. You might consider taking one of the hubs to this shop & getting their opinions, since they'll (presumably) know the details better than any of us. Realistically, a high-temp enamel ought to be adequate for several years, assuming a good prep job before painting.
Jim, as always, YMMV...
lugstuds to have this process done... plus remove the paint I applied and etc...."
Pretty much for sure to all that. You might consider taking one of the hubs to this shop & getting their opinions, since they'll (presumably) know the details better than any of us. Realistically, a high-temp enamel ought to be adequate for several years, assuming a good prep job before painting.
Jim, as always, YMMV...