Sadly, since the closure is the timken factories in the U.S. their inventory is coming from Mexico, China, and I believe they still operate a factory is Europe (Germany??).

Since this change took place, quality has become suspect. Sometimes the tapered races WILL wear oddly and need replaced... But as they are supposed to be chrome-moly (IiRC 4140, but I could be wrong) they should almost never need replaced, the Chinese made timken bearings (even those used in aerospace apps) have been known to prematurely wear...

My recommendation on the fronts would be to pull it all apart (will need new seals on the inboard side of each front hub) and inspect everything for wear... Repack with grease, an re-assemble... Remember our bearings are adjustable for preload... If not done properly they can mimic being worn out, when they just need adjusted! And signs of corrosion or wear (races and bearings themselves) are reason for replacement!

As for the rears, don't pull anything apart untill you are ready to replace the bearings (all parts and tools on hand) as the nuts are one time use, and the bearings get destroyed pullin the stub axle out! Let me know I you want to borrow the proper tools, as I have the arm works tool, and a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket/extensions for the nuts! Torque is 370 ft lbs (iirc) so ensure you have an adequate torque wrench on hand as well!

As an aside, no reasons for name calling or disrespecting each other... We all have varied backgrounds... Aviation and aerospace require replacement of the races every time, regardless of condition, automotive not so much... But then things that fly x ray their wheels/hubs too! (yes every time)

 

Or?????????

If you're not associated with the brain trust, I'm guessing my post didn't involve you. I also prev said the races(tapered part) could be replaced. Don't know what you're arguing about, but it's common on rennlist to get a panty-wad case from time to time.

 

Of course, your comment wasn't directed towards my responses at all

Rennlist definitely isn't what it used to be.

In any case, your comment pushed me to do some research on roller tapered bearings and I did learn more about them. A considerable amount actually.

And altho I will replace the races whenever I replace the bearings, I understand now that it is acceptable practice to inspect the races for corrosion/pitting, clean, repack/replace, install, and go.

 

Well lets see if I can summarize:

I explained how it should be done.
You had a different(somewhat incorrect) opinion and expressed it.
I reiterated how it should be done.
You took umbrage.
I tried to mollify your umbrage.
You investigate far and wide, trying to solidify your opinion, and found pretty much bupkiss to support it. But - you're sticking to your way just the same.

My work here is done.

 

Regardless of if you can or cannot just replace the bearings. Why the hell wouldn't you? You have to take off the hubs anyway, new races come with the brearings and it takes 10 minutes tops to knock them out with a brass punch and fit the new ones. Ok maybe 20 minutes. Wow! what's there to argue about?

 

My thoughts exactly. In the end, the end user will do whatever he/she wants to do.

 

Here is an opinion from the brain fart trust;

It's truely false economy to just slap in a new tapered bearing. That's a maneuver that only people that don't have a clue would do.

Here is why-

If there is excessive play in the wheel / hub there can be several reasons.

1) bearings are miss adjusted but in good condition. The fix is to simply adjust them, if the bearings are not worn/contaminated or pitted there is no reason to replace them.

2) bearings are worn. Replace both the bearing and race. If the bearing is worn enough to warrant replacement you have been running on crappy bearings for a while and most likely you will have some pitting in the races. Replacing the races in the aluminum hubs is not an easy "pound it in" operation. Very easy to screw up your hubs. (if you have been running on bad/loose bearings see #3 - you may have damaged the hub)

3) Hub failure. Cracked hubs are very common on a car that has been tracked and also not uncommon on street cars. On many cars you won't see the cracks unless you remove the races. If you can't get the wheel/hub to stop wobbling by tightening the wheel bearings then you have a good chance that the hub is cracked - this is a dangerous situation because hub failure means the wheel is leaving the car!!

If you take a look at that list there is no where that just tossing in a bearing is a good fix. This is the wrong car to 'Cobb' together a quickie repair.

End of brain fart trust dissertation.....have a nice day.

 

Thanks Chris.
Great to get a definitive answer

 

Van's tutorials....

 

Unrelated to hubs/bearings, I had really bad wobble around 70 mph, but nowhere else, turns out my inner tie rods were toast. Might not be your issue, but that's where my problem was.

Best of luck!

 

One dumb final question. Where do I buy races? I can only find bearings.

 

Wheel bearings always come as a set - bearing and race.

As they say - there are no dumb questions.....but there are some really dumb answers!

 

bp944, take your car to a shop that services Porsches, or at least VW / Audi cars. No disrespect to anyone, but from your original post I suspect there is some chance that the tech may be mistaking normal free play in the front bearings for a problem. Porsche calls for it, as do the bearing manufacturers. He may also have mentioned hubs because on some cars the bearings come as an assembly with the hub. I can't address the rears, they really don't show free play.

The front hubs can be tested by a materials testing business. I had mine checked a few years ago by a local outfit. There is a history of problems with the M030 versions used on the 944 Turbo S for example, and there is an aftermarket part that is supposed to address the issue.

Somewhat amusing story: I had a local state inspector (MA) flunk my own 944 a few years ago because he thought the wheel bearings were lose. I went back with the factory workshop manual and someone from the DMV, who told the guy he was wrong. Anyone can be wrong, but this inspector was being a dick. He tried flunking me again because I had Michelin Pilot Sport Cups mounted. The DMV rep told him they were legal, with that nice "DOT" mark on the sidewall. So the inspector handed me my $29 back and told me to go somewhere else for an inspection.

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

 

Why wouldn't you replace the races when you do the bearings ? It's not the easiest thing in the world, but by no means difficult. Hmmmm, don't know about the Porsche prescribed "normal free play". Replace the seals with new ones when you replace the bearings. Auto zone had the front bearings for my "86 N/A
in stock, not expensive either, and they have lasted very well.

 

The issue is that I live in the middle of the boonies and the nearest porsche mechanic is 300 miles away. The nearest "german import" dealer is 60 miles away. My car can't make it there. I think with the fact that it has 160,000 miles and there is a massive wheel wobble from the front. I'm thinking its the wheel bearings. My only wonder is about the rear wheel bearings but even then, they probably should get changed anyway since they're probably close to being shot. yes?

My current problem is the tools. I'd rather not buy the arnnworx tool, is there an alternative that I could easily find to rent? None of the local tool rentals have it. Also, do I need to replace the axle nut after removal and instillation? Along the same lines, I will replace the bearings, races, and seals. Is there anything else?

I'm replacing the races on the car. Its not that much harder and it gives me peace of mind so can we please just let it go.