bp944

I took my car into the shop the other day for an alignment. He told me all the wheels were loose on all four corners. They said that everything checked out except for the wheel bearings. He then told me I needed to replace the wheel bearings and hubs. Couldn't I just replace the wheel bearings and the races? Am I missing something here? The shop is a GM shop and they didn't take the wheels off so either I'm off on something or they're not familiar with porsches.

Hollywood D

You shouldn't need to replace hubs unless they are damaged. They are pretty stout pieces of metal. Not to mention, hubs are NLA, you will need to find someone on here who has some or find a junk yard.

Darwantae951

I would pull the wheels off and check. The rear wheel bearings are a pain to replace, but not overly difficult to do yourself. Fronts are pretty easy, but I suggest getting some kind of race installation tool.

bp944

What would I need to do to check the hubs? I know how to check the bearings but not the wheels. What cost am I looking at for a race installation tool? I would be doing all of this myself because I cannot afford for a shop to do it.

Dougs951

they told you to replace the hubs so they could "call the warehouse, get a set and have it done by tomorrow " all for a nice chunk of change, and do nothing.

Had a similar experience with a shop that told me all of the suspension bolts were seized and needed to be replaced, along with the castor blocks and control arm bushings. The whole suspension was just gone through and had new everything.

bp944

That makes a lot of sense especially the difference between what the mechanics told me and what the front desk told me. The wheel bearings must be completely shot for the amount of wobble they were causing. Is there any other parts that could have been ruined in the process of running really bad bearings? I want to do it right the first time.

Darwantae951

You can usually rent the race installation tool. You also don't need it but it makes it super easy:



You don't need to do anything with the wheels except remove them. If you grab the wheel and try to wiggle it, you should feel play if your bearings are shot. Also for the rear wheel bearings, Arnnworx makes a good tool to use that someone may be able to lend you.

Where are you in ND?

If you really want to know how the hubs look, you'll need to pull the discs, but I doubt they are damaged. You would feel/hear grinding if it were that bad. (All my experience is with a late Turbo, so it may be different depending on what car you have.)

bp944

I am in grand forks, ND. I don't hear or feel and grinding. I do get a ton of wheel wobble at 50mph but no real wobble below that. I have no idea when the bearings were last replaced and the car had 163,000 miles on it. It's probably a good time to replace them all. As far as moving the wheels, I never felt any wobble but the shop guys said its one of the worst they've seen. Maybe I'm just looking for more play than there is.

docmirror

Well, I just looked at the parts call out for the 968, I'm guessing/hoping the 944 is basically the same setup. In front, you have a pair of tapered(Timkin) roller bearings on races. You can remove the hub, leave the races in place, and just replace the inner tapered roller bearing. Grease it well, and then put the hub back on after inspecting the races inside and out for any damage.

The rear appears to be a one-piece double race ball bearing, but I'm not sure. The bearing is replaceable by driving it out of the trailing arm after removing the hub and inner splined axle stub. While you are in there, might as well put on a new set of boots on your rear axles.

Unless a hub is damaged, they are not a consumable item like bearings. Also, bearings in the front can be snugged up a bit by simply tightening the axle nut properly. Not too much, and the bearing should be regreased anyway, but as long as its apart, might as well replace the tapered part.

Darwantae951

Considering that the bearings and races wear into each other, I would not replace one without the other. Just my opinion. If you do replace the rear bearing, the inner race will more than likely separate and stay on the splined shaft. You will have to remove it prior to re-installation.

If he has an early car, I believe the rear is a different set-up (similar to the front).

bp944

I have the late model, 1987. Where would I buy the "best" bearings? If they're all the same, where would I find the best price. Do the old boots just get worn so they should be replaced?

How does one put their car destails below each post?

Darwantae951

You will have the aluminum trailning arms and need the large sealed rear bearing. It is a PITA to get out, and I highly suggest either trying to buy the arnnworx tool or contacting him to see if he can loan you one.

The fronts will be pretty simple. The bearings come with the races, so not installing them is not a good idea IMO.

I buy from Paragon and Zims. There are quite a few places to buy from online that sell good stuff.

docmirror

Sadly, some the brain trust here don't understand how tapered(Timkin) bearings wear. But that's ok, cause replacing the races is not a big job as well. Generally a waste, but it's not a problem.

Bearings are for sale most anywhere. They can also be ordered. If you remove the hub, and clean the roller you will see the mfg and also the PN. Write them down, and call one of these folks:

http://www.qmbearings.com/distributo...ch/usa/nd.html

odurandina

old and brittle wheel hubs can break. it has happened. i was lucky enough to get extra set w/ low miles. don't know when i'll put them on though. maybe @ 250~280 k miles or some arbitrary number.

Darwantae951

As I stated, it was my "opinion." I do not associate myself with the "Brain trust" that is "Rennlist." I have been wrong in the past, and if I am, I can take it like a man, admit it, and move on. What I really like is when someone corrects me by explaining what I have a misconception/misinformation on.

Do not insult me, or be a dick about it.