Warm idling proble, coolant sensor problem
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Warm idling proble, coolant sensor problem
Another issue, I red alot on many forums about this common problem, but before changing the expensive ICV I need some opinions...
Car was back from garage and have a new clutch.
Drove home, and before putting the car in the garage, car almost stall with a rev bouncing up and down, oil pressure falling down.
1. My needle on the temp gauge is very low in the dashboard, below the 1rst mark, and it is 93F outside when I drive the car. I had to keep the rev up or the engine would die
2. Once back home, I revved the engine until the needle went all the way up, and I could hear the cooling fan functionning ; once the cooling fan started, the rev was consistant, with the needle all way up, no stall problem
3. Can it be a bad coolant temperature sensor faulting the reading of the MAF??? or is it anither cause of a bad ICV again?
Car was back from garage and have a new clutch.
Drove home, and before putting the car in the garage, car almost stall with a rev bouncing up and down, oil pressure falling down.
1. My needle on the temp gauge is very low in the dashboard, below the 1rst mark, and it is 93F outside when I drive the car. I had to keep the rev up or the engine would die
2. Once back home, I revved the engine until the needle went all the way up, and I could hear the cooling fan functionning ; once the cooling fan started, the rev was consistant, with the needle all way up, no stall problem
3. Can it be a bad coolant temperature sensor faulting the reading of the MAF??? or is it anither cause of a bad ICV again?
#4
Guy, here is the link to the Clark's Garage procedure for setting the idle:
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-08.htm
It only requires a short length of wire and a screw driver. This may not solve the problem, but it will allow you to see how the ICV behaves when disabled, and will also tell you whether your idle is set too low.
When you say that you warmed the car up until "the needle went all the way up" do you mean that it went all the way to the top of the gauge?
What year and model is your car?
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-08.htm
It only requires a short length of wire and a screw driver. This may not solve the problem, but it will allow you to see how the ICV behaves when disabled, and will also tell you whether your idle is set too low.
When you say that you warmed the car up until "the needle went all the way up" do you mean that it went all the way to the top of the gauge?
What year and model is your car?
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a 944S2. The fans kicks in when the needle is 3/4 uo on the temp gauge inside the car.
They installed a 944 Turbo clutch, can it be the crank sensor that is wrong??? badly replaced back?
Did another test this evening, I just cleaned the inside if the DME relay, ithere was some corrosion, put it back, start the car, wait for normal T engine, but, noe even when the cooling fans are functionning, the engine wants to stall..
I'm not a mechanic, but now , it is beyond my limits.....
They installed a 944 Turbo clutch, can it be the crank sensor that is wrong??? badly replaced back?
Did another test this evening, I just cleaned the inside if the DME relay, ithere was some corrosion, put it back, start the car, wait for normal T engine, but, noe even when the cooling fans are functionning, the engine wants to stall..
I'm not a mechanic, but now , it is beyond my limits.....
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cold: 1200, no bug
Warm: The engine slowly drops below 900, thne 700, thne 500 and the engine shakes badly, oil pressure drops down, then stall.
What confuses me, before the clutch job at WE Tune, , the engine was running perfectly well...
Warm: The engine slowly drops below 900, thne 700, thne 500 and the engine shakes badly, oil pressure drops down, then stall.
What confuses me, before the clutch job at WE Tune, , the engine was running perfectly well...