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AC Line Leak

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Old 07-10-2012, 11:07 AM
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jej3
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Default AC Line Leak

Well, took the 924s into the Tint shop yesterday to get the rear hatch re-tinted and the guy comes into the waiting area and says "We had to move your car and now it is steaming"

Well, I look at it and the AC line from what I believe is the receiver/drier (cylinder with sight glass) is leaking. The line is the one that runs back to the firewall of the car.

So, if this is indeed leaking, how do you fix this line? Can a competent line shop replace the rubber and splice in a connector for the hard line so I don't have to remove the entire line (including what goes through the firewall)?

It appears the line goes through the firewall so I can't even fathom having to take the whole line out.

Any advice is appreciated!

Last edited by jej3; 07-10-2012 at 11:09 AM. Reason: for clarity
Old 07-10-2012, 12:23 PM
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John_AZ
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Easy.

DIY-2 hours or less.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...rly-944-a.html

Suggestions:
replace all the "O" rings inside the blower/evaporator housing. You can get most "O" rings in the big kit at AutoZone or the R134a conversion kit at Pelican:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2%20%2C%20Each

Flush all the lines.
Replace the RD receiver drier
Add one (1) or two (2) ounces of oil to the compressor.

GL
John
Old 07-10-2012, 12:25 PM
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Added,

I do not suggest a "splice".
If you have a leak in one part of the hose the rest of the hose is probably just as bad.

John
Old 07-11-2012, 12:21 PM
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Thanks, John. Should I plan to replace the Evaporator at the same time as a WYAIT? I'm planning on getting a used line from one of the suppliers as new is not easilly found at a cost effective price.

Thoughts?
Old 07-11-2012, 01:08 PM
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The evaporator will usually leak at soldered "elbows"

Name:  Evaporator  old leaks.JPG
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Size:  72.6 KB

Unless you see oil spots or have a leak detector already injected in the freon, you may not know if it is bad.

I did replace mine when I replaced the expansion valve. Came as a used package price.

John
Old 07-11-2012, 01:19 PM
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thanks, John. I actually meant Expansion Valve I appreciate the quick reply. Any idea if the Expansion to Receiver line is interchangeable between my 1987 924s and earlier 944?
Old 07-11-2012, 01:29 PM
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Not without looking up the 944 expansion valve.

What I did find out is the 924S expansion valve only has one temp bulb attached.

When I ordered a new valve they sent the wrong valve with 2 temp bulbs attached.

Correct style:
Name:  Expansion valve.JPG
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Incorrect style:
Name:  Expansion valve 2.JPG
Views: 540
Size:  27.8 KB

Replacing the expansion valve is a good idea WYAIT but yours is probably good unless you remove it completely and inspect for blockage or know in advance it is bad.

John
Old 07-11-2012, 01:31 PM
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Great insight! Should I pull the line and get it rebuilt using barrier hose (no idea of the cost) or go with a salvage line?
Old 07-11-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jej3
Well, I look at it and the AC line from what I believe is the receiver/drier (cylinder with sight glass) is leaking. The line is the one that runs back to the firewall of the car.

It appears the line goes through the firewall so I can't even fathom having to take the whole line out.

Any advice is appreciated!
Slightly confused:

Line 1-
On the 924S there is a short line with the pressure switch that goes from the RD to condenser.
Line-2
There is a long line from the back of the firewall to the compressor-Evaporator-Expansion valve to compressor.
Line-3
There is a long line from the Receiver drier to the fire wall to evaporator.

I would replace line #2 & #3 at the same time if you plan to keep the car for a few years.

John

Last edited by John_AZ; 07-11-2012 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Corrected Receiver Drier RD to evaporator
Old 07-11-2012, 01:47 PM
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Yes, this calls for a picture...



I believe number 21 in the above picture is leaking. Options are to replace with Used, New or Rebuild with barrier hose.

Do you still think this is a 2 hour DIY?

Hope this helps!
Old 07-11-2012, 02:02 PM
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Corrected my previous incorrect post.

The 2 hour figure was to remove the under dash blower motor/evaporator assembly.

A couple more hours getting the line(s) #21 & #23 removed and replaced.

You might just do #21 because you will be skilled in removing the assembly when done.

Another suggestion. Take pictures of the wires/hose on the assembly.

There is a hanger welded under the metal dash that the assemble slides into. If you do not have the wires and hoses correct, the blower assembly will not go in smooth. Trial and error.

GL
John



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