Two weeks away from clutch rebuild.
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Two weeks away from clutch rebuild.
I am two weeks away from Putting a new clutch kit in my car. I am getting ready to order it and I am just wanting to make sure I buy the right thing. I am currently considering the Sachs new oem clutch kit KF 298-02. It includes pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, plate/rings, special lubricant. Its for 485$$. Is this a good deal. Am I getting the right one. My car is a 1984 Porsche 944. Thanks I appreciate all feedback. Yall are great!
#2
Three Wheelin'
Sounds good. May I also recomend to you that you have the flywheel machined, and also replace the Pilot bearing. It is a big job, do it right the first time. GOOD Luck, Have fun!
#4
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Don't forget to get new flywheel bolts, clutch fork bearings and flywheel pilot bearing.
Maybe go to china freight and get a brake bleeder hose. So you can change your brake fluid and bleed your clutch. While your down there.....
Might be a good time to change your transmission fluid. Easier when the transmission is lying on your floor.
You will be removing your exhaust system as well, so maybe get some new hardware and gaskets.
All this shouldn't cost more than $100 but will extend the life of the new parts you will be installing.
Good Luck,
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html
Maybe go to china freight and get a brake bleeder hose. So you can change your brake fluid and bleed your clutch. While your down there.....
Might be a good time to change your transmission fluid. Easier when the transmission is lying on your floor.
You will be removing your exhaust system as well, so maybe get some new hardware and gaskets.
All this shouldn't cost more than $100 but will extend the life of the new parts you will be installing.
Good Luck,
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html
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#8
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You'll never regret buying a set of flex-joint 6-pt sockets before you start. In particular, a 19mm for the bolt at the top driver's side of the bellhousing, although neither of them at the top are "handy" and likely very stuck. Once broken free they spin right out, but the first 10 degrees can take a while... You'll need a couple feet of extensions, too.
#9
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Pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, plate/rings, special lubricant = Yes.
Machine Flywheel = Maybe.
I put a Fidanza aluminum flywheel when I did mine, and its great, however the revs go down really fast, and it might not be ideal for you while driving long distances. It's easy to fix though, just let the revs down easy by releasing the throttle slowly...that't just me though.
NOTE: Make sure you remember the position of the little pin thing (can't remember what it is actually called) that sticks out of the flywheel. My car was down for a week because I couldn't get the length of it correct for the speed and reference sensors. It also came out once while driving. So I used locktite.
Pilot bearing = Yes.
Flywheel bolts = Yes.
Clutch fork bearings = Yes.
Thing that goes into the clutch fork = Yes. (Been a while since I looked at these parts, sorry.)
Brake Bleeder = YESSSS. Saves you time under the car. Bleed brakes from under the car instead of having to get up and do it, then go back under.
I can't remember everything I think you should replace, but I replaced a lot when I did it.
Think of it like this: How often are you going to work on the clutch/how often do you want to work on the clutch? There are a lot of "While you're in there" kinda parts that you can replace. If you have to ask if you should replace it, you probably should. It's not often (hopefully) that you will be working with everything apart like that.
If you want, when I get home I can see if I still have my Clutch replacement parts list. I believe it had parts, and part numbers as well. I'll check.
Edit: To the post about....YES! ABSOLUTELY! I almost forgot about needing that.
Machine Flywheel = Maybe.
I put a Fidanza aluminum flywheel when I did mine, and its great, however the revs go down really fast, and it might not be ideal for you while driving long distances. It's easy to fix though, just let the revs down easy by releasing the throttle slowly...that't just me though.
NOTE: Make sure you remember the position of the little pin thing (can't remember what it is actually called) that sticks out of the flywheel. My car was down for a week because I couldn't get the length of it correct for the speed and reference sensors. It also came out once while driving. So I used locktite.
Pilot bearing = Yes.
Flywheel bolts = Yes.
Clutch fork bearings = Yes.
Thing that goes into the clutch fork = Yes. (Been a while since I looked at these parts, sorry.)
Brake Bleeder = YESSSS. Saves you time under the car. Bleed brakes from under the car instead of having to get up and do it, then go back under.
I can't remember everything I think you should replace, but I replaced a lot when I did it.
Think of it like this: How often are you going to work on the clutch/how often do you want to work on the clutch? There are a lot of "While you're in there" kinda parts that you can replace. If you have to ask if you should replace it, you probably should. It's not often (hopefully) that you will be working with everything apart like that.
If you want, when I get home I can see if I still have my Clutch replacement parts list. I believe it had parts, and part numbers as well. I'll check.
Edit: To the post about....YES! ABSOLUTELY! I almost forgot about needing that.
Last edited by hopps; 06-27-2012 at 05:03 PM.
#11
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Also check out Paragon. The first two products are ones that are a must! You could still get that kit, then add this and any other little things you may need. I don't know which would be cheaper..I can't do math very well.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Para...arts_s/407.htm
I also updated my previous post to "Clutch for bearings" instead of the actual clutch fork. Yours should be in good shape, and save you $300.
If you need to borrow any tools, I know I have them in the shed and you can use them. And I bet some of the other guys in Athens have them and would let you use them.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Para...arts_s/407.htm
I also updated my previous post to "Clutch for bearings" instead of the actual clutch fork. Yours should be in good shape, and save you $300.
If you need to borrow any tools, I know I have them in the shed and you can use them. And I bet some of the other guys in Athens have them and would let you use them.
#13
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From Warner Robins, about 2 hours away, or 2.5 with traffic. I had planned on it, but I had just spent the last week in my 944, driving about 8-9 hours a day. A little sick of driving, but I'll be at the next meet for sure! I don't ever see more than 2 944's at a time..either at the shop down the street sitting for 5+years, or when I pull up next to one.
#14
Proprietoristicly Refined
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You'll never regret buying a set of flex-joint 6-pt sockets before you start. In particular, a 19mm for the bolt at the top driver's side of the bellhousing, although neither of them at the top are "handy" and likely very stuck. Once broken free they spin right out, but the first 10 degrees can take a while... You'll need a couple feet of extensions, too.
You have said your car still has the OEM rubber center clutch disc.
You may have a hard time working on 28 YO parts that have never been touched.
What can go wrong.......
1. Before you start, remove the reference sensors from the sensor bracket.
Why wait until you have it all apart and find they will not come out?
2. The 2-8mm bolts on the transmission coupler. Use an expensive hex and at least loosen the bolts.
3. Read all you can about the RMS rear main seal. Put it in wrong and do it twice when it leaks.
4. Put all the loose parts in small baggies. Why waste time later?
5. The silver heat sheild by the starter and bell housing will fall in your face.
How does the sound deadener on top of the torque tube (shift lever) look? Is it falling apart?
6. Take a drive before you remove the clutch. Check for any vibration before you do the work.
Do you have vibration at idle?
Do you have vibration between shifts? 2 to 3 or 3 to 4.
At 25mph, push the clutch in and rev the engine. any vibration?
The noise and vibration may be the torque tube bearings.
GL
John
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John-AZ
I do have a lot of vibration from the rubber center being busted and the throwout bearing being worn. I have already been offered a torque tube from a buddy so I may do that as well.
Thnks for the heads up!
I do have a lot of vibration from the rubber center being busted and the throwout bearing being worn. I have already been offered a torque tube from a buddy so I may do that as well.
Thnks for the heads up!