Marajit

Is it possible to install a clutch disk backwards?

Please tell me no before I lynch my helper.

Dougs951S

It sure it possible. springs go toward the pressure plate.

Marajit

What would be the down side?
I'm having issues with the car bogging down in first and second gear unless I slip the clutch in a big way.
Have replaced both master and slave cylinders and bled them with a power bleeder. Pedal began staying on the floor again in spite of it all.
Fork release bearings are new and properly lubricated and the rod is not damaged.
Only options left seem to be the disk installed backwards, a faulty brand new slave, or my supplier sent me a weak pressure plate.

Am I facing another complete tear down?

Mierda.

I love these cars.

mytrplseven

It usually says on the disk, "This side towards Transmission". Make sure you have all the required spacers in the throw-out bearing per recommendations as well. If not you may experience this symptom as well as the disk orientation.

Dougs951S

Slaves do leak/fail brand new, out of the box. master cylinders do too. If you're sure the hydraulics are good and that you got all the air out of it, looks like you're looking at tearing it apart again.

Richgreenster

No you can not install one backwards.
What exactly is your car doing?

Richgreenster

You state that your car "bogs down" unless you slip the clutch. Yet you say that your clutch peddle is on the floor. ??? I don't get it. How could you slip the clutch then? Please explain more so we can help you before you pull it apart again.

Marajit

The pedal began sticking to the floor at first start in the morning after replacing and properly bleeding both, the master and the slave cylinders. I can pull it up with my foot and pump it slowly a few strokes and then it takes hold of the clutch and slips into reverse properly out of the garage.

Place it in first gear and attempt to climb the small incline on the road makes it bog down unless I slip the clutch, letting up on the pedal slowly at 3,000 to 3,500 RPMS. Then the problem goes away after a short drive, only to reappear at the first sight of a hill (and I live in a very mountainous area).
Yesterday was the kicker, when an old lady pulled out of her driveway backwards and blocked the road as I was going up a very steep incline in my neighborhood. Had to stop until she got out of the way and then a meeper in a Toyota pulled up behind me and blocked me.
Had to slip the clutch to umpteen million RPMS to avoid backing into him and then slowly began to gather speed. The Toyota passed me while all this drama was ensuing. I could hear the chuckle.

I made extra sure I placed all the three spacers on the throwout bearing that came with the kit properly, although I noticed that very little pressure was needed to compress the pressure plate fingers in order to secure the ring on the throwout bearing. The last time I did a clutch job I had to stand on it in order to accomplish it.

It's from the Vertex kit that includes a Sachs pressure plate and throwout bearing and a Italian disk 20% thicker.

Went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder to try it out.

Your help is much appreciated, guys.

Wish you were here...

Dougs951S

Bleed it again. I'm almost certain there is still air in your lines. Now that I understand, Its very unlikely that the disk was put in wrong. These cars can be tough to bleed properly. Use a motive power bleeder, and jack the back end of the car up as high as you can while you bleed it.

Richgreenster

I agree with Doug. You need to bleed it. But I think that you have something else going on. Your car should not bog down in first gear on a slight hill.
There are two areas you need to narrow down. Is the power being lost by drag in the drive system. (Torque Tube, Throw out Bearing, or maybe even the brakes catching) Or is your motor not running right?

As far as your pressure plate goes. I would not worry too much about how much pressure it took to install UNLESS it is slipping. Then Yes your pressure plate would be the problem.

Marajit

Engine is running just right. Doesn't seem to have power issues.
Along with the clutch replacement, I did a front engine reseal, including balance shaft supports, and crank seal, new water pump, belts and rollers (temperature now stays consistently at the first line of the gauge)
Replaced front wheel bearings, brake hoses, pads and both fans.

Compression checks out at:
1 - 180
2 - 165
3 - 170
4 - 140 (didn't dare risk screwing in the fitting all the way in fear that it would prove to be a bear to get out if it got stuck in the spark plug hole, so I'll call it good and leave it at that).

No noise front the torque tube. No drag from brakes.
Installed a Schnell short shift (which I am about to remove as I don't really like it and suspect it ruins the synchros).

Did a high speed road test on the Autopista and lunched on a couple of BMWs.

Thing is this taking off from a stop. Clutch chatters a little (refaced flywheel and replaced all bolts as well as changing the rear main seal).

I'll replace the slave (FTE) and power bleed it and we'll see what happens.

Gracias for your answer.

JimV8

You have air in the line.

Marajit

Forgot to add that on the test run on the twisties following the Autopista run I also smoked what appeared to be an old man with Doctor badges on the bumper of a brand new 911, air in the line and all.

Must have been a proctologist.

Marajit

UPDATE:
Replaced slave cylinder with another new one and had a professional shop bleed it.
Seems the first slave was defective straight out of the box.
Much less slippage is now needed to get the car going but a slight amount of chatter is still present.

Looking through search, I found this, related to the Vertex clutch kit I installed:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...Clutch+chatter

I also noticed the difference in the length of the snout of the Vertex disk as opposed to the Sachs.
Anyone have more information on this issue?