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Suspension Tech question - ghetto methods to stiffening up a 944?

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Old 06-12-2012, 01:37 PM
  #31  
Oddjob
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Originally Posted by 86 951 Driver
stiffen the front end with a set of turbo springs. Could you do that?
Turbo springs are the same rate as N/A springs, they are just longer/taller to maintain the same ride height w/ the heavier front end.

M030 springs are stiffer, but do not fit the stock lower perches.

Find a set of 200 or 250 lb/in weltmeister take-offs that have seen a lot of street mileage, maybe will be rusty enough not to draw unwanted attention.
Old 06-12-2012, 02:14 PM
  #32  
bordin34
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I have some used front struts and springs from my 86 sport suspension N/A you can have cheap. I believe they have koni inserts in them and are still good.
Old 06-12-2012, 02:14 PM
  #33  
ZR8ED
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Cut the front springs if you want it a bit lower. There is a right way and a wrong way ya know.. Tracked a car for 10 years on cut springs..just do it correctly. Cheap too.

Then just lower the rear eccentric bushing as far as it will go...maybe even grind out the slot a bit more for some extra travel.

Want less sway bar movement? weld it/bracket to the frame, and isolate/remove the rubber bushings. Take out the sway bar endlink bushings..use washers..

Oh and chain the motor down to stop the twisting action of the engine on its soft mounts..put that torque to the wheels instead.

Can you tell I'm an old skool hot rodder?
Old 06-12-2012, 02:32 PM
  #34  
JustinL
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Originally Posted by ZR8ED
Want less sway bar movement? weld it/bracket to the frame, and isolate/remove the rubber bushings. Take out the sway bar endlink bushings..use washers..
I like this idea. The closer the weld is to the the end link, the stiffer the bar will be. It won't act like a swaybar anymore, but instead like a spring. Make sure you set the ride height before you weld it though
Old 06-12-2012, 02:52 PM
  #35  
sydneyman
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Originally Posted by OmniGLH
Sydney - where are you? (I don't know where "District 12" is)

And do either of you also have the hardware to mount it?
Asheville NC 28806. i think the one i have is from my 968 so its 16mm. no hardware though. let me know!
Old 06-12-2012, 04:41 PM
  #36  
pettybird
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
my bar is a front bar, i don't have the 14mm rear anymore.

looks like pettybird's your man

bird, how much for the 26.8?

I have brand new urethane bracket bushings with the 26.8, too. I think I gave $75 or so for the 26.8 I bought previously (go figure.) I'd send it your way for $75 shipped including the bushings.

Originally Posted by OmniGLH
Pretty sure the team would kill me if I didn't take one of these "free" rear bars. I see offers from Sydney, Pettybird, and Greg.... definitely appreciated. I'm in Chicago, pretty sure none of our team will be at 'fest, so it's down to Sydney and Greg.

Sydney - where are you? (I don't know where "District 12" is)

And do either of you also have the hardware to mount it?
I have the brackets but I think I'm light on the bushings by one...it rolled away in the garage and I can't find the damn thing. Send me $25 to cover shipping for the 25.5, 16 bars and KYB's and they're yours.
Old 06-12-2012, 04:48 PM
  #37  
User 52121
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Originally Posted by pettybird
I have brand new urethane bracket bushings with the 26.8, too. I think I gave $75 or so for the 26.8 I bought previously (go figure.) I'd send it your way for $75 shipped including the bushings.



I have the brackets but I think I'm light on the bushings by one...it rolled away in the garage and I can't find the damn thing. Send me $25 to cover shipping for the 25.5, 16 bars and KYB's and they're yours.
PM me your PayPal and I'll have money sent to you this evening.
Old 06-12-2012, 07:34 PM
  #38  
V2Rocket
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howabout a stack of hockeypucks bolted to the rear suspension arms? like an 8" bumpstop
Old 06-12-2012, 08:49 PM
  #39  
acorad
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Originally Posted by crashtest22
Plan is to have it at the December Lemons in Chuckwalla.
Crash, I plan on the same race. We have a mid '80's 528e. Heavy and slow as molasses, but kinda sorta reliable! #55, aka, "The Roach." See you there!

Last edited by acorad; 06-14-2012 at 10:27 AM.
Old 06-12-2012, 09:32 PM
  #40  
speedjw
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The front springs off a Kia Sportage (junkyard $12), will need to be cut down, but will more than double your stock front spring rate.

For the rear, get the beetle coil-overs, and cut the springs (link below)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Bug-Dune-...sories&vxp=mtr


We also toyed with the idea with rigging up a bump rubber setup from a suburban or something off the top of the rear control arms.

Also, I heard that one of the Volkswagen busses had 28mm rear torsion bars that fit... but I'll be damned if I've been able to find them.

As for shocks, dont worry about that, as long as they're not blown, you're fine. You need springrate!
Old 06-13-2012, 09:35 PM
  #41  
ltdan12a
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what about doubling up your bumpstops? You could even go progressive, by using a soft one on top of a hard one....
Old 06-13-2012, 09:47 PM
  #42  
ltdan12a
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Originally Posted by turkis_tii
I read an account by a famous driver that they would weld square bars or angle iron, like 1/4" x-section, onto the length of the sway bars to increase the stiffness. I'm not an engineer, but it seems to make sense. Lemons legal? BTW, I have one pair each of two-dot blue and two-dot yellow springs I could donate.
I'm sooooo stealing this idea!!! Have a spare front swaybar at the shop, and I'm doin' it in the morning!!!
Old 06-14-2012, 04:10 AM
  #43  
crashtest22
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Originally Posted by acorad
Crash, I plan on the same race. We have a mid '80's 528e. Heavy and slow as molasses, but kinda sorta reliable! #55, aka, "The Roach." See you there!
Kick ***....
dont know what ours is going to look like yet I will keep posted on here when we decide.
currently its flat black and anarchy signs on the doors and number 57
Old 06-21-2012, 09:33 PM
  #44  
ltdan12a
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The Verdict? AWESOME!!!! Car is much more stable in transitions, and predictable in steady state cornering!!!
Old 06-22-2012, 02:03 AM
  #45  
Oddjob
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Ooof, I thought you guys were kidding about that idea.

Make sure you watch the welds on the ends of the angle iron over time/mileage. They may be prone to cracking, and the bar itself may also be more prone to fatigue failure in the heat affected zone of the welds.


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