944 clutch kit
06-14-2012, 05:32 PM
#16
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Yes that has what happened to mine as well. I'm just trying to think ahead if I ever turn mine into a track day car. Is Sachs the brand that most people use for just a standard replacement?
06-14-2012, 07:47 PM
#17
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I put one of the Italian aftermarket clutches for 944online in mine. It has only been a couple of months but I have not had any problems with it. I did a search for it here before I ordered it, it had good reviews.
06-15-2012, 07:23 PM
#18
if this is for a street car, buy the cheapest clutch you can find. you don't make enough power to tear one up, unless you're a complete dumbass and drive with your foot halfway down on the clutch pedal.
I put a USED clutch and PP in my '87S, took 420 grit to the flywheel, bolted it all back up and it's fine. thinking you need a "stronger" clutch is a waste of money. your friction surface didn't wear out--the center broke. my clutch had nearly 130k on it and could have gone 20k more if the rubber didn't shatter.
I put a USED clutch and PP in my '87S, took 420 grit to the flywheel, bolted it all back up and it's fine. thinking you need a "stronger" clutch is a waste of money. your friction surface didn't wear out--the center broke. my clutch had nearly 130k on it and could have gone 20k more if the rubber didn't shatter.
So my question is this: is the stock clutch strong enough for that kind of horsepower? I would love to NOT have to replace the clutch, if I can avoid it.
06-15-2012, 08:56 PM
#19
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Check with http://www.clutchnet.com/clutches?pa...egory_id=3380/ , they make several "levels" from pure street to pure racing. They used to be quite a bit cheaper than Sachs, very well made units, too. They sell a disc for the NA for $105.
06-17-2012, 06:11 AM
#20
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The rubber-centered clutches always fail at the rubber before they wear out, unless it was abused or something. If the rubber was indestructible, and you knew how to shift properly, a stock clutch would last a very long time... it would outlast the TOB anyway.
If you have your flywheel machined, make sure the outer lip is also machined, so the PP is moves down the same amount that the clutch disk will.
On a 944, you don't have to worry about clutches slipping from power or things like that. You worry about the PITA job of replacing it. That's the only reason I wouldn't buy the cheapest crap I could find. If you found something for $20 and it was a brand you KNEW would last for years, then I'd say use it.
As it is, I like to go with a relined disk, new Sachs pressure plate and release bearing, new pilot bearing (I use SKF but brand probably doesn't matter as much for this one), new clutch fork bearings (2), and sand the flywheel. If the pressure plate bolts look questionable, replace them. Look closely at the clutch fork pivot shaft, and if you see any grooves, it's a good idea to replace it. There's a guide tube bolted inside the bellhousing, which guides the TOB. You can replace it, but since it tends to wear out on one side, you could get away with just turning it and bolting it back on.
If you have no record of the rear main seal being done, you should do it now.
If you have your flywheel machined, make sure the outer lip is also machined, so the PP is moves down the same amount that the clutch disk will.
On a 944, you don't have to worry about clutches slipping from power or things like that. You worry about the PITA job of replacing it. That's the only reason I wouldn't buy the cheapest crap I could find. If you found something for $20 and it was a brand you KNEW would last for years, then I'd say use it.
As it is, I like to go with a relined disk, new Sachs pressure plate and release bearing, new pilot bearing (I use SKF but brand probably doesn't matter as much for this one), new clutch fork bearings (2), and sand the flywheel. If the pressure plate bolts look questionable, replace them. Look closely at the clutch fork pivot shaft, and if you see any grooves, it's a good idea to replace it. There's a guide tube bolted inside the bellhousing, which guides the TOB. You can replace it, but since it tends to wear out on one side, you could get away with just turning it and bolting it back on.
If you have no record of the rear main seal being done, you should do it now.
