JPRA64

Hey guys new to the forum so this is post numero one for me . I very recently replaced the clutch on my 1984 944. It probably has around 3000 miles of fairly normal highway driving and the deal with the slip is that it will happen when the car is driven 30 miles or so. Anything over half throttle in 4th gear and 3/4 throttle in 5th it just slips :[ The clutch pedal has freeplay but to me it seems the clutch doesnt fully release. could a bad clutch master be an issue? i did reverse bleed the system but could be that i didnt do it properly, could the realease bearing bind up or the lever?? need some help with this. if anyone has any info, advice, comments or quickfixes it would be greatly appreciated!

mytrplseven

when you did the clutch did you replace the clutch lever shaft bearings? Did you put a bit of lube on the splines so the disc would slide easy? Perhaps a reinspection of the adjustment processes for clutch pedal and see if the slave is binding up or the throw out bearing is hanging up because of the clutch lever hanging up. The clutch should normally be relaxed in a fully tight condition. If it's not then it will slip in higher gears. While you can get around 30 miles before it starts to slip makes sense if the disc isn't fully contacting the pressure plate. It's slipping a little and enought to generate more heat, causing it to slip even more.

JPRA64

i did use the lube on the splines, the release bearing retainer plate and lubed the bearings but did not replace those. if the release bearing was binding up would there be a roughness in the pedal? everything seems smooth and quiet with the pedal travel but the clutch application seems off, i feel like the hydraulic circuit is to blame. also the car does leak oil at the front pump area think its the drive gear but from what i can tell nothing from the rear. just wish the getting to the clutch wasnt a week long event.

mytrplseven

what front pump area and drive gear are you referring to? Is there an indication that some of the oil is getting into the clutch inspection Hole?

magcuda

did you replace the clutch due to the old hub coming apart?
If so did you check the pressure plate for any rubber debris in the fingers?

JPRA64

oil leak is at the front oil pump but its slight and only makes its way to the sway bar, the oil pan stays dry and from what i can see the clutch also looks fine. the clutch im using is the spring type and new pressure plate, new release bearing old realease bearing hub and reused the flywheel as well. could it be the flywheel is worn??

944Ross

Crawl under there, pull the rubber inspection plug, and watch the lever while opening the bleeder. If the lever moves, the MC is not fully releasing pressure. You may have swept debris into the master's bleed ports, preventing pressure release.

xsboost90

loosen the adjustment from the pedal to the master cylinder and see if that helps. SHould have 1/2" - 3/4" from the top of the pedal to where the hydraulics start to compress. Had this on a few cars, the fluid gets warm, expands and takes up the room in the clutch line making the clutch not fully disengage. May also need a rebleed with the back of the car in the air so that the air escapes the slave correctly.

mytrplseven

I love these guys. What a great wealth of info and techniques. No kidding. On another note, the oil you feel may be coming from the oil pump: That indication also looks like oil leaks that comes from the front camshaft seal or oil pressure regulator seal. To be sure, I'd buy a flouresecent dye kit on line or at a local autoparts store (cheap) with the glasses and special flashlight. Gunk and spray the under side of the engine so it's clean then put some dye in the oil and drive for a week and then get under there with the glasses and flashlight. The realsource of any oil leaks will show up brightly in glowing orange. I found 7 leaks around my motor and they weren't where I thought they'd be.

JPRA64

i went and squeezed my way under the car loosed up the bleeder screw and gotta say the release lever move back quite a bit :O if i had to guess the master cylinder is as old as the car needs to be replaced either way so im going to order a new one. xsboost if i can remember the spec for the freeplay was around 3mm at the pedal i have it at a little more, i was thinking the same. i dont have any of the dye or the uv light but i was able try it elsewhere pretty neat stuff i think it was for the a/c but same thing. i might get a new seal drive gear and loctite knock that out one weekend im also without balanceshafts so wouldnt be surprised if the bolts are just coming loose...already lost a handfull of other bolts o yeah and thanks guys for the awesome info!

mytrplseven

Yeah, same stuff that they use in the a/c, brakes, power steering and oil system. I ordered a kit and I've used one bottle on two systems and still have 5 left. Goes a long way.

JPRA64

^ wouldnt be a bad thing to have in the toolbox. then again i might just let it keep leaking so that way i dont ever have to do an oil change, just keep adding new fluid does anyone know a good place where i can find a stainless steel clutch line in place of the rubber one? i figure it would be a good time to do everything all at once.

Elsie93

when you did the clutch did you replace the clutch lever shaft bearings?

JPRA64

^ i did not replace the bearings only lubed them.

f1rocks

When I replaced the clutch in my Turbo track car, I needed to readjust the clutch engagement. Had the same characteristics. Would slip badly in 4th and 5th. 5 minute adjustment and never had another problem.