JPRA64

f1rocks just to clarify which adjustment did you make? and off topic but is there a diffrence between the NA/Turbo clutch?

968 GUY

Best to replace all clutch components at once...master and slave cylinder, hose, and fluid.
Have seen S/S hose, but cannot remember where.

JPRA64

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-Brai...35486b&vxp=mtr
dont know if the fitting is the same but the fit looks similar

944Ross

Yes there is a difference between NA and turbo, S, and S2 clutches.

It makes sense to replace the fork lever shaft bearings (and the shaft itself) while you're in there, because any wear there results in lost motion. It's so painful to do the clutches on these, do as much as you can while you're in there.

On the two I've done, the fork shaft actually was dented from the rollers in the bearings -- the lube doesn't last, and then the rollers lock onto the dents in the shaft, and slide inside the bearing shell. Personally, I think bronze bushings would be a better application, but they would need periodic lubrication.

The fork levers probably ought to be replaced too, but they are no longer available.

JPRA64

it was probably because i couldnt afford them after paying 700 dinero for the clutch kit lol... o well there WILL be a next but hopefully not too soon. so the turbo clutch would be an upgrade for the NA cars? with my old 300zx the TT clutch had a larger surface clutch disc+pressure plate but the bellhousing had to slighty modified. whats the diffrence with the turbo/S/S2?

f1rocks

The new clutch was full thickness so when bolting up the master/slave cylinders, it was partially depressing the clutch all the time. Kind of like driving around with your foot halfway on the clutch. Adjusted the pedal back off the slave cylinder and all was good.

The clutches are different but all the components leading up to the clutch are the same. (pedal assembly, master cyl, slave cylinder, etc)

JPRA64

alright so i got to change the clutch master cyl today after work and what a difference in the way the car drives! i gotta say i did a poor job bleeding the system, the clutch pedal feels soft, its there but mushy. i used the pump and dump method until i could go no more and even tried reverse bleeding but i have no luck with that. im thinking about one of these vacuum bleeders has anyone used these with sucesss? http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv6...FQhN4AodyjBlkA and more random questions, will the air bleed out itself if i just drive it? and the hose from the brake fluid resivoir to the clutch master, does that see any pressure?