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Rod bearings replacement and crank scraper installation completed.

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Old 03-21-2015, 02:53 AM
  #16  
divil
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Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic
Besides, it was a long day and I'll talk about rod bearings with anyone willing. God knows I can't get my wife or my dog interested. The way I did it didn't use that HF engine brace and my bet is I wouldn't e able to do the oil pan and bearings without it since I have the engine up on the pan.

The original question was about where to set the brace/lift/support, whatever you call it. HF has them for 79 bucks and I'm thinking of going for it since I can't get my hoist in, but I can't figure out how you'd use it since the lift points on the engine are on the diagonal and that brace goes straight over the struts.
Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic
I lifted it using a jack and wood block under the pan, I don't know why it shifted on me either. It's on a lift with a hydraulic jack on a jack tray. The clutch and driveshaft are out, nothing else worth mentioning I don't think. When I took it up it tilted towards the passenger side of the car and moved back (towards the rear) about an inch.

I couldn't change the oil pan seal using this lash up anyway since I'm lifting the engine with a jack under the oil pan so I was thinking of getting the HF support but couldn't figure how it would work. So you just lift on the front lift point? I thought you'd need two points just to lift? Isn't it out of balance on a single point?

I've only used my hoist and it has a separate load leveler, I've never tried one of the HF or OTC supports but they'd be perfect in this case since I can't get the hoist in.
Well if you have the clutch out I suppose that changes things. I had nothing else removed...so the engine was supported at the bellhousing and the front hoist ring. If it's disconnected from the bellhousing and the engine mounts, then I would think it's no longer attached to the car at all, except via the wiring harness?
Old 03-21-2015, 03:14 AM
  #17  
Otto Mechanic
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Originally Posted by divil
Well if you have the clutch out I suppose that changes things. I had nothing else removed...so the engine was supported at the bellhousing and the front hoist ring. If it's disconnected from the bellhousing and the engine mounts, then I would think it's no longer attached to the car at all, except via the wiring harness?
Those, the brake lines and the radiator hoses. That's about it, so it's pretty free to move around. First time I've tried this and I wasn't thinking that the procedures I'd read didn't take into account that the engine was a free agent once it was disconnected from the drive train and engine mounts...
Old 03-21-2015, 06:04 AM
  #18  
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OK. I'm thinking I know how the HF support could work by using unequal length chains. I may give it a try.
Old 03-21-2015, 06:05 AM
  #19  
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The trick would be setting it exactly over the center of mass. That might be a problem?

I can't put the torque tube back in yet to stabilize the engine because it's getting new bearings; SuperBearings to go with the SuperMounts I put in today and the SuperTransmission mount that goes in this weekend.

I'm afraid this is going to turn into a juggling act, but if push comes to shove (pun intended and I have the strained back muscles to prove it) I'll bring in the engine hoist. I didn't want to because I thought I would save time and it really will be a pain in the tuckus to squeeze it in there, but if I can't get the engine lined back up by noon tomorrow using chewing gum and bailing wire I'm bringing in the big gun.

Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 03-21-2015 at 08:15 AM.
Old 03-21-2015, 08:38 AM
  #20  
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And Divil, as an off topic aside, I'd sort of like to know everything you have to say about the performance of the '89 Turbo, what you've done with it, how you've kept it, where you think it needs improvement, what options it came with and what enhancement you've made.

In my opinion, the '89 951 Turbo S was the finest car Porsche built (aside from the '85 928, the '81 931 and the '71 916). The '91 S2 Turbo (which they didn't build) is the car I'm working on. I seriously envy you, but I couldn't justify buying an '89 Turbo just to take it apart to see how it worked....

Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 03-21-2015 at 09:00 AM.
Old 03-21-2015, 01:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic
The trick would be setting it exactly over the center of mass. That might be a problem?

I can't put the torque tube back in yet to stabilize the engine because it's getting new bearings; SuperBearings to go with the SuperMounts I put in today and the SuperTransmission mount that goes in this weekend.

I'm afraid this is going to turn into a juggling act, but if push comes to shove (pun intended and I have the strained back muscles to prove it) I'll bring in the engine hoist. I didn't want to because I thought I would save time and it really will be a pain in the tuckus to squeeze it in there, but if I can't get the engine lined back up by noon tomorrow using chewing gum and bailing wire I'm bringing in the big gun.
I'm not sure what the best way to handle that is - I've never taken mine that far apart. My gut feeling is that I would want to get the engine connected up at the bellhousing before the engine mounts.

Originally Posted by Otto Mechanic
And Divil, as an off topic aside, I'd sort of like to know everything you have to say about the performance of the '89 Turbo, what you've done with it, how you've kept it, where you think it needs improvement, what options it came with and what enhancement you've made.

In my opinion, the '89 951 Turbo S was the finest car Porsche built (aside from the '85 928, the '81 931 and the '71 916). The '91 S2 Turbo (which they didn't build) is the car I'm working on. I seriously envy you, but I couldn't justify buying an '89 Turbo just to take it apart to see how it worked....
Well I'm probably not the best guy to ask lol...my 951 story hasn't been quite what I had hoped. I bought the car 4 years ago after searching hard, hoping it would be a nice driver and I could just do periodic maintenance. I wanted to avoid a big project, partly because I am technically a temporary visitor in the US and don't know how long I'll be able to keep the car. But it never lived up to my expectations. I took a big gamble because I flew a few thousand miles to buy it having never driven a 944 before. I thought I had done my homework, but I had no idea how much it would cost and how much trouble it would prove to be. And I'd be ok with all the expense and work if it had improved things, but the truth is the car doesn't seem much better to me than when I got it, despite having replaced a lot of stuff. But I haven't given up yet! There are still a few ways I can throw money at it lol!

The issues I had with it, and still have are:

- brakes are spongy: bleeding helped for a while, but they always went bad again. So I bit the bullet and rebuilt the calipers with new seals. That didn't fix it so I'm going to replace the master cylinder soon. That is pretty much the last thing I can do there so hopefully that will take care of it.

- steering is a bit vague in my opinion: this has been the hardest thing to deal with. Not having had the chance to drive another 944, I don't really know what to expect, but it has always disappointed me. At this point I've replaced everything to do with the steering and it hasn't helped so I think I might be beaten on this front.

- engine has some issues: it's fundamentally solid, but has good days and bad days. Most of the time it's a bit down on power. Maybe some phantom electrical issue, but I feel like I am close to zeroing in on this as I've learned a lot about the engine over the years. I've replaced a ton of stuff and the problem is still there but it's days are numbered

Don't get me wrong though, it's not all bad. The car has been very reliable. I can drive it daily like any modern car, and the more I drive it the less quirky it gets. It likes to be driven a lot! The track doesn't hurt it...it loves the track. And when the engine wakes up and decides to have one of it's good days, it is intoxicating. Some guys love to rip on the 951 engine but I think it's a masterpiece. Definitely the best thing about the car. Still, I have always wondered what an S2 would be like, or a 968 engine swap. A nice NA would compliment the turbo perfectly

Having just replaced the rod bearings as a preventative step, the next items for this year are:

- rear suspension bushings...I have Elephant Racing Polybronze spring plate bushings ready to go in. Really looking forward to that. This is the last part of my suspension not replaced.

- master cylinder...that should be easy enough hopefully

- oil cooler upgrade...if you track it you really need this. I'm not sure what I'll go with yet, but I am considering a 993 oil cooler.

- power steering lines...they seep a little and since they're almost the last thing left leaking now I can't live with it lol.

- timing belt/balance belt...it seems like only yesterday I did this, but it's due again soon. At least one of the oil seals I replaced the last time is leaking again too.

- battery cables and headlight relay harness. All 944s should have this imo. I decided to get the tools and make my own cables, but there are 1 or 2 rennlisters who sell kits. I've done the ground cables already. I just like doing things myself

I had notions of maybe looking into some mods when I was first looking for the car. Having gotten a sense of how much work is it to maintain one in stock condition, I'm more or less cured of that particular itch now! I may some day go to an upgraded chip but I doubt I'll ever mess with the turbo.

Sorry for rambling on like that
Old 03-22-2015, 05:58 PM
  #22  
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Just to complete this minor sub-plot, I got the engine aligned over the mounts by wrapping a ratcheting cargo strap around the oil pan, then ran it over and behind the front cross member. I lifted the engine about 1/2" over the new mounts and used the ratchet to pull it towards the front of the car until it was over the new mounts, dropped it slowly until it was about 1/8" over, placed the upper bolts between the cross member and the mounts and finger tightened them, then finished lowering the engine.

It took a little time but it worked. In the future, maybe folks doing this with a "free" engine will be able to use this procedure. I have to admit I was worried for awhile.



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