Help! trying to remove the 4th bolt holding cross member to turbo
#1
Help! trying to remove the 4th bolt holding cross member to turbo
as the title says....
I've tried everything for 3 days, and now, it's completely striped.
I can't get grip on it anymore.
I tried cutting it with the skillsaw, but I can't get a longer metal blade than the one I have.
Does anybody have a suggestion? I'm losing my mind on this one, I even wonder if Porsche didn't actually weld the bold with the nut?
Should I cut the crossover pipe at the same spot that lindsey cut's it to do the 2 piece?
I've tried everything for 3 days, and now, it's completely striped.
I can't get grip on it anymore.
I tried cutting it with the skillsaw, but I can't get a longer metal blade than the one I have.
Does anybody have a suggestion? I'm losing my mind on this one, I even wonder if Porsche didn't actually weld the bold with the nut?
Should I cut the crossover pipe at the same spot that lindsey cut's it to do the 2 piece?
#3
Something I thought about was to grind the down pipe off, that will give me better access to that bolt. I purchased a 3" downpipe so no need for it.
If that still doesn't work, then at least I ll have access to grind off the bolt attaching the x-over pipe? Then this will give me access to grind the old k26-6 in two lol
this is a heck of a job. Been fighting with all the bolts for 3 days, and I didn't even started unmounting the bolts under the turbo.
Clark garage is saying sOmething about 4 bolts under... I can only see one?
#4
There are two bolts holding the turbo onto the engine mount. One is really long... you'll probably have to take off the steering shaft heat shield to get access.
For the cross over pipe, those can be a bitch - there's no doubt about that. Do you have access to a cutting torch? You should be able to burn the head off (or, worst case, the welded on nut).
I've found that a collection of box-end wrenches - that you don't mind cutting shorter - and universal sockets work best... You have the master cylinder heat shield off for maximum clearance, right?
For the cross over pipe, those can be a bitch - there's no doubt about that. Do you have access to a cutting torch? You should be able to burn the head off (or, worst case, the welded on nut).
I've found that a collection of box-end wrenches - that you don't mind cutting shorter - and universal sockets work best... You have the master cylinder heat shield off for maximum clearance, right?
#5
Master shield is off. But I took it off after removing everything so far, I don't find this as help me at all.
As for the steering rack shield...
Is that the small flat one or is it the one wrapping the rack?
If it's the one wrapping, I only see one bolt, and I don't see how I can remove it with the turbo still in place, the bolt is on top of the shield.
You gave me a good idea. I don't have a cutting torch, put I could you my skill saw to get the welded nut off, I think there's enough space
As for the steering rack shield...
Is that the small flat one or is it the one wrapping the rack?
If it's the one wrapping, I only see one bolt, and I don't see how I can remove it with the turbo still in place, the bolt is on top of the shield.
You gave me a good idea. I don't have a cutting torch, put I could you my skill saw to get the welded nut off, I think there's enough space
There are two bolts holding the turbo onto the engine mount. One is really long... you'll probably have to take off the steering shaft heat shield to get access.
For the cross over pipe, those can be a bitch - there's no doubt about that. Do you have access to a cutting torch? You should be able to burn the head off (or, worst case, the welded on nut).
I've found that a collection of box-end wrenches - that you don't mind cutting shorter - and universal sockets work best... You have the master cylinder heat shield off for maximum clearance, right?
For the cross over pipe, those can be a bitch - there's no doubt about that. Do you have access to a cutting torch? You should be able to burn the head off (or, worst case, the welded on nut).
I've found that a collection of box-end wrenches - that you don't mind cutting shorter - and universal sockets work best... You have the master cylinder heat shield off for maximum clearance, right?
#6
I am guessing the pipe for extra leverage didnt work out? Something i just thought of, you are putting our socket / wrench whatever on the right side? I mean you are turning the bolt head on the TURBO side of the flange and not the nut on the crossover side of the flange?
#7
Yeah, yeah, doing it on the right side, thanks.
The pipe idea was good, accept it's too late, too much damage on the bolt, the socket just keeps slipping out.
I decided I'm gonna cut the down pipe in two, as close as possible to the turbo.
This should give me space to try getting that bolt out from the top.
If again, the bolt is too stipped, at least I'll have more space to cut the bolt out, without the downpipe in the way. I will be using my blackndecker skillsaw with a good metal blade to do this.
The pipe idea was good, accept it's too late, too much damage on the bolt, the socket just keeps slipping out.
I decided I'm gonna cut the down pipe in two, as close as possible to the turbo.
This should give me space to try getting that bolt out from the top.
If again, the bolt is too stipped, at least I'll have more space to cut the bolt out, without the downpipe in the way. I will be using my blackndecker skillsaw with a good metal blade to do this.
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#8
I just pulled my turbo on Sunday. Took yesterday off work to clean parts (joy).
That bolt was a b. Had to lay under the car and slowly work it out with a box end wrench. I made the mistake of taking it out last. The flange shifted and held onto the bolt. Should have taken it out first.
Best of luck! I'm counting my blessings, and bloody knuckels, that I did not run into this same problem!
Mark
That bolt was a b. Had to lay under the car and slowly work it out with a box end wrench. I made the mistake of taking it out last. The flange shifted and held onto the bolt. Should have taken it out first.
Best of luck! I'm counting my blessings, and bloody knuckels, that I did not run into this same problem!
Mark
#10
Thanks Van for the advice.
I'm gonna try one last time tonight, and spend more money on tools.
I'm gonna go to the store and get something similar to this http://blog.bt-andf.com/blog/stripped-bolt
If that doesn't work, then good bye downpipe (you will meet my friend Reciprocating Saw with a long metal blade).
I'm gonna try one last time tonight, and spend more money on tools.
I'm gonna go to the store and get something similar to this http://blog.bt-andf.com/blog/stripped-bolt
If that doesn't work, then good bye downpipe (you will meet my friend Reciprocating Saw with a long metal blade).
#12
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