Out of options, transmission drain plug won't budge.
#1
Out of options, transmission drain plug won't budge.
The drain plug stripped the 17mm allen shoulders. I JB welded the allen socket to it and left it for a week. The JB weld broke loose. I drilled it out and am using an remover, but it won't budge. I tried to heat it with a soldering iron and turn it with vise grips. A chisel and hammer just eats the side up. I am going to go out and get a drift.
The fill plug came out with some effort, but it came out. If I drill more of the drain plug out would it release the grip on the threads? This is just messed up. There is no reason it should be this tight. The bellhousing to torque tube bolts were not this tight.
The fill plug came out with some effort, but it came out. If I drill more of the drain plug out would it release the grip on the threads? This is just messed up. There is no reason it should be this tight. The bellhousing to torque tube bolts were not this tight.
#4
You have little option left other than to keep progressively increasing the drill size...
other than pulling the trans and taking it to a machine shop..
You COULD try applying heat to the trans case using a hand held torch... otherwise its drill til it comes out!
other than pulling the trans and taking it to a machine shop..
You COULD try applying heat to the trans case using a hand held torch... otherwise its drill til it comes out!
#6
You can always weld a socket or key in there, and then try an impact wrench if needed (or my favorite, hitting a wrench with a hammer -- wear eye protection though...). It's a steel plug in an aluminum case, so even a cheapy flux MIG would do it. Or you can just drill it completely and rethread it.
#7
Just take your time, dont rush it as when you rush is when bad things will happen!
I have a torque adapter for re-installing these, and have been known to replace them just to have new ones in the trans!
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#9
I agree with welding a bolt onto it. The heat from the welder helps to break loose the frozen threads. I had a bolt that broke off in the head, the one by the coolant tube, and it broke because of corroded threads. I welded a nut onto it, and it turned right out like it was never seized up. Careful not to start a fire with the grease and dirt on the transmission.
#10
Thanks for the moral support, guys. It finally came out, I was getting worried. I drilled it out a little more so the extractor would go in further and used a jack on the wrench handle, just like I had been doing. This time it worked and I got that wonderful crack sound as it broke loose.
#11
Thanks for the moral support, guys. It finally came out, I was getting worried. I drilled it out a little more so the extractor would go in further and used a jack on the wrench handle, just like I had been doing. This time it worked and I got that wonderful crack sound as it broke loose.
#12
Here is the real question - what do your knuckles look like? If you didn't leave a bunch of skin and blood behind you just weren't trying hard enough. I have been there - a whole bunch of times.
#13
I have two new plugs already installed and a better fitting 17mm socket. I ordered them earlier this week after the original plugs were stripped. I am going to flush the transmission in the morning just in case any shards ended up in the case.
No bloody knuckles, not a scratch. I was surprised, too. I did break a ratchet, strip a wrench and waste a whole day.
No bloody knuckles, not a scratch. I was surprised, too. I did break a ratchet, strip a wrench and waste a whole day.