Hollywood D

Should be able to twist those out with pliers if there's enough to grab onto. Vice grips are your friend. If they're deep in there (which they don't look like they are) you might need a left hand drill bit set.

kinda5150

mine spun out the back w/a drill going in clockwise direction. i was doing that w/the expectation of having to use an ez-out. however, it does look like you have plenty to get a bite on w/vise grips.

944_S_TYPE

The best screw/Bolt extractors on the market!
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Player0

Oh, nice snap-on extractor set. I'm a big fan of snap-on but can only afford a few tools at a time from them. I do have another bolt extractor set, though I'm not sure I'll need them if I can really get some pliers on there.

The problem is that we don't get sunlight anymore and I need a garage. We'll see this weekend.

Fara

Most mis-named tool on the planet.

944Ross

+100... they do more damage than good.

Sears sells an excellent set of extractors that only works on nuts/studs that stick out proud of the surface

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2166000P?mv=rr

Player0

It wasn't too bad getting the two little broken bits out. They weren't seized up or anything. There wasn't enough to grip on so I had to use my extractors. Worked okay on one, the other was rounded and I couldn't get it centered, even with my punch. I just took a regular drill bit and took a bit off the top so i could get the extractor bit started. Cleaned, regreased everything, got the bolts in with some red loctite and torqued.

To be honest, I'm not sure the loctite is going to do any good. The CV grease got everywhere. I cleaned the threads and the bolt holes with degreaser and q-tips to try to get the bulk of it out. I used my thread cleaner bit as well. But I'm sure theres tons of grease in those threads. I used the loctite anyway.

Since the threads have grease and loctite in them, should I be overtorquing by like 20%? I guess 36 pounds or so? I just need this to get through the winter at the very least. I can't manage to even think about safety wire or dealing with locking hardware until its slightly above freezing again.

I know some guys have recommended lock washers. They'd be easy enough to throw on I guess. Are they used in conjunction with that 'bridged' washer part or does that piece need to come out to make up for the additional thickness of the lock washer?

I got the broken side done, drove around, CV joints sound okay for now. I don't think they need to be rebuilt just yet. Came back home and took the rear pass. tire off and out of morbid curiosity checked the bolts over on that side.

Every single one was loose and I could turn them by hand. Oy.

PS - I recently had my mechanic change the transmission fluid since I don't have service records showing if and when it was done last. Is it possible that he might have needed to remove the half shafts in order to drain/add fluid? The Haynes manual doesn't mention anything about the half shafts but I wonder if its related.

Van

If you properly torque the bolts, and check them frequently, you won't have a problem.

You do not remove the axles to change the tranny fluid. But shame on him for not checking their torque, since this is a common problem.

Player0

Other side done. There was one broken bolt already. A few of the bolts were hanging on by a thread heh. They were out like 1/4 of an inch. Well hopefully this lasts a while. Thanks for the help guys.

What a bad design though. Why aren't there interlocking teeth or something. Did they fix this on later models?

944Ross

Are you torquing the outers, too?

Player0

Oh yeah, I did the outers too but they were all tight.

Hollywood D

Someone else just started a thread, and said if you use a lock washer on those bolts, it should hold them in there.