Cylinder head bolt
11-16-2011, 05:39 PM
#16
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The first picture holding the stud shows a light color on the tip indicating a fresh break, where the darker color is usually older indicating a "mostly but not completely broken" fastener. In the other pictures it looks like all dark, so I wasn't going to say one way or the other on the finality of the break.
11-18-2011, 05:12 PM
#17
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There is a shop in Woodstock VT called PCCW. They did a valve job for my engine several years ago which included a competition valve grind (5 angle), head plane, and knurled a guide or two that were a bit out of shape. I think the shop is part owned by Ricky Craven.
11-19-2011, 03:17 PM
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I have not done any real engineering in about 15 years, and not that it matters all that much now, but that full slant fracture surface in the range of 45 degrees is evidence of a tensile fracture and is characteristic of an overload.
There may have been some irregularity right there in the stud, but when it got mongo-ed on, as has been identified by the bottomed nut, it started cracking. It may have been felt by the mongo-er.
Then when the other loads such as heat and vibration and combustion were applied over time as you drove it, the final fracture occurred.
So while it was there for a while, it wasnt really completely through and there waiting for you to find it. Only Mongo knows for sure LOL. This is more commonly known as twsited the **** off.
There may have been some irregularity right there in the stud, but when it got mongo-ed on, as has been identified by the bottomed nut, it started cracking. It may have been felt by the mongo-er.
Then when the other loads such as heat and vibration and combustion were applied over time as you drove it, the final fracture occurred.
So while it was there for a while, it wasnt really completely through and there waiting for you to find it. Only Mongo knows for sure LOL. This is more commonly known as twsited the **** off.
I raced motorcyles in the 1970s and 80's and 90's with crap fasteners so I know first hand about these things. I too resembeled mongo until the bolts got better and I got some torque wrenches. And then came Harleys. Make it up tight - real tight. My engine guy and I built up a Harley motor and I never saw him pick up a torque wrench except for the crank. Made it up tight too !
Thanks Jharding! I'll definitely give them a call.
12-15-2011, 12:36 PM
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Update
Well, the stud is broken completely inside the block. I am open to suggestions on how to get the stud out but I know that I may be looking at a replacement block...anyone have one they want to let go?
12-15-2011, 01:50 PM
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How far down is it broken off?
A shop might be able to EDM it out... but it might cost a few hundred bucks. And for the price, you should be able to get a new block (or new engine).
A shop might be able to EDM it out... but it might cost a few hundred bucks. And for the price, you should be able to get a new block (or new engine).
12-15-2011, 02:23 PM
#21
With it broken at such a steep angle it'll be hard to do anything by hand. Maybe, m a y b e , you can Dremel a flat spot on the top of the stud to be able to drill into it and get an easy out tapped into it. If it was mine my wallet would be screaming at me......
12-15-2011, 02:29 PM
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I plan to try everything I can, including the Dremel....and yes, the wallet is starting to scream!
12-16-2011, 05:57 AM
#23
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Just buy a used shortblock. It will be way less headache and probably way cheaper. Or even just a whole engine. See what you can find.
Sorry this happened to you, that's a real bummer!
Sorry this happened to you, that's a real bummer!
07-26-2012, 08:31 AM
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UPDATE
Well, it's been awhile and I have looked at quite a few blocks/motors. I finally found one that was in a car and running and will pick it up on Friday. It's a complete motor with low mileage. I'm hoping to finally get this car sorted out in the next few weeks. Once I pull the old block I will see if a machine shop can extract the stud, hopefully leaving me with a motor I can completely rebuild.
09-16-2012, 05:48 PM
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Old engine is out and replacement is about to be put in.
I've got:
New w/p, thermo
Timing, bs belts with rollers
Front engine seals
New clutch
A/C delete bracket
Alt/ps belts
New cap/rotor/wires/plugs
The power steering rack is a leaking mess. Does anyone a) know where I can source a reasonably priced rebuilt unit or b) have a manual rack and intermediate shaft they would like to part with?
I'll give an update when i'm done. Hopefully i've got all of the vacuum lines properly marked...
I've got:
New w/p, thermo
Timing, bs belts with rollers
Front engine seals
New clutch
A/C delete bracket
Alt/ps belts
New cap/rotor/wires/plugs
The power steering rack is a leaking mess. Does anyone a) know where I can source a reasonably priced rebuilt unit or b) have a manual rack and intermediate shaft they would like to part with?
I'll give an update when i'm done. Hopefully i've got all of the vacuum lines properly marked...
