Sentinelist

Sorry, at work, can't really dig in and RTFM. What is this component below? Cruise mechanism? It was disconnected when I got the car. I decided to hook it up on a whim last night, cranked the car up this morning (note: dead battery, almost expected, need to replace cell, jumped), and this thing is ticking like mad. The car had a really rough idle and was running like crap. I shut it down, disconnected this thing, and cranked it back up- mad ticking from it is gone and some of the rough idle went away. But most of the rough idle is still there. It was running well enough so I drove it to work without incident, but I can tell a notable loss of power. Car was shaking when I was at stoplights (almost like a muscle car really- wumpwumpwumpwumpwump).



I also cleaned and recharged the K&N air filter last night and topped off the engine with a half-qt. of Castrol Edge 10W-30 after it was showing low as well but this wouldn't have caused it... fixed a rattle in the driver's door as well and that speaker also became disconnected in the reassembly process... Oh no I've made it worse!

sydneyman

hmmm. i would bet its vacuum related...

fwb42

Running good before you messed with it? Check your K&N, too much oil? Something you did is causing this. Recheck everything you did.

Sentinelist

Feels like a vacuum issue to some degree...

I can only assume it was something I did, but I actually didn't have enough K&N oil- can ran out so it just got a 75% glaze overall. Ordering more to redo next week. Cleaned (K&N stuff, sprayer broken ended up just lightly pouring it on, let sit for 20 and hosed off gently) and dryed the media well (hair dryer, high, warm but not hot- was night, couldn't sun it on the driveway- surely this wouldn't have damaged it)... I'll try running the car idle briefly in the parking lot at lunch without the air filter and see if this does anything by chance...

F40LM

The silver 'box' in the pic is the cruise control unit. Not sure how the conector plays into things.

Sentinelist

Ok, so maybe that really is unrelated- PO mentioned it was wonky and disconnected it. I just need to replace or get rid of that module. Obviously bad.

I'm going to bet it's the air filter though it should be fine... I didn't disconnect the plumbing and only moved it toward the manifold out of the way, so I doubt anything got kinked (and nothing got sucked into the box- car wasn't running during the cleaning).

Equilibria

you sure it's not a bad spark plug? shaking at stoplights could be the engine missing. I'm not sure that you could clog your air filter enough with just K&N cleaner. Could be a vacuum issue like others are mentioning too, sounds like a simple fix one way or the other.

St3mpy

I would replace the battery and go from there. These cars are sensitive to weak voltage which can lead to all kinds of crazy symptoms. I have no idea why connecting the cruise servo would have any affect as it's a separate system that is only turned on when you want it to be. That's how it is for the early car at least.

St3mpy

Oh, and check Clarks' for information on the cruise servo. There is a write up on adjusting the internal resistance wipers to eliminate "dead spots".

mytrplseven

I'd look at removing the filter, see what happens, check under the boot and around and under the throttle body for loose vacuum fittings, Loose spark plug connectors. I made my own vacuum test fitting from a 2" pvc cap with air fitting threaded into it. plugged it into the j boot after the air box and sprayed the the whole engine with soapy water solution. You'll find any vacuum leaks in seconds. Use between 7 and 10 psi!!!. It's cheap and it works.

xsboost90

that is the cruise control servo. It can effect the idle some since it adjusts for being in cruise etc. Pull the cable off of the servo and see if that helps, it could be just pulling your idle down too far but it also sounds like maybe something more is going on.

BlackOp

Sounds like a vacuum leak...if the lines are original, you should replace them anyway. It was the first thing I did to mine. It takes about an hour and is easy. Just go the the Lindsey racing site...about $35.

Sentinelist

Definitely not the air filter, housing, or the flap in the box- all seem to be free flowing. I disconnected the cruise cable from the servo with no change. Throttle cable seems normal. It's a very consistent rough idle and loss of power- I really wonder now if I am just coincidentally running on 3 cylinders now with a bad spark plug. AutoZone closes in an hour- going to go get a new battery and plugs now. Any recommendations before I get there? If this doesn't fix it, I'll look into the vacuum recommendation.

FWIW, the car has been sitting idly and driven casually for the last 6 years before it was suddenly bought by me (after lots of maintenance by the PO) and essentially turned into a daily driver. From the rattles coming out of the woodwork alone, I can tell the car is 'breaking in' to a new norm here...

EDIT: Picked up Bosch Platinum Plus 4016s. Trying the battery first.

Sentinelist

Ok, new battery and new spark plugs are in... doesn't seem to have really changed anything. Old battery definitely dead, car cranks right up now. Old spark plugs (NGK) gapped out well beyond .040 and sooted up, car seems to run smoother to a degree but that loss of power and wumpwumpwumpwumpwump is still there. Less now, but definitely something is still awry. When I warmed it up and made sure nothing was about to explode, I took it out on a highway access road and opened it up a little- sounds like it's gasping for air. gasp-gasp-gasp-gasp!gasp!gasp!gasp!gasp! Exhaust emits quick puffs in fashion instead of a relatively smooth flow...

I took the top airbox intake out and found it's just sucking out of a large enclosed opening in front of the driver's fender- I was expecting plumbing to one of the intake vents in the front valence, but it's sucking out of nothing. Is this correct?? I got my flashlight into that hole where the rubber boot seals it and there wasn't any obvious loose parts or connectors for this. If this is correct, I'm almost thinking I may have a bad cat on my hands now if it's not breathing properly. Sucking in or blowing out, I think something there is now the culprit. Or maybe it is a vacuum leak- I think I'll go for that Lindsey Racing kit next unless anyone else has a different idea. So strange all of the sudden.

P.s.: looked up 'rough idle' on Clark's and am being pointed to the engine temperature sensor, DME, bad plug wires (plug ends at least look great), distributor, or rotor, air box damper/dirty circuit board, or sticking idle stabilizer valve (idle is not up/down erratic).

F40LM

If you like to test the vacuum theory.....buy a small can of butane (Walmart). Spray SMALL amounts around your vacuum lines and connections. If you have a vacuum leak the engine will idle up when the butane gets sucked into the system through the leak. It may just be a loose fitting.

michael