I've been aware of a slight oil leak from the back of my engine for a while, but it's recently got worse. No drips of oil when I park, but the buildup of oil that has dripped onto my exhaust produces a fair bit of smoke almost every time I start the engine from cold... so it's time to do something about it.

I've had a close look, and the oil appears to be coming from the camshaft housing gasket, but also maybe from the head gasket. Unfortunately the easier-to-replace rear cork gasket seems fine. Here's a pic and video:

https://files.me.com/pireson/f5nvxa
https://files.me.com/pireson/07icob

Now, it seems as if I may as well change the timing + balance shaft belts if I'm going to remove the camshaft housing (don't think it's been 40,000 miles, but probably 4+ years). But I have a couple of questions...

• ANy opinion, on the photo evidence, of how likely the head gasket is to be leaking?
• Assuming that it's only the camshaft housing gasket. what other gaskets and bits will I have to replace at the same time?
• Is it silly to leave the head gasket if I'm going to all that trouble anyway?
• If I'm going to do those damn belts, what tools do I actually need to get, and which can I improvise replacements for? (Mr Arrnworx seems to be the go-to guy...)
• If I do the belts I plan on setting tension by ear and by feel (ie. record the sound of belts twanging before I change as a reference, and matching this with the new belts. The ear is pretty good at detecting very slight changes in frequency, so this could be a very accurate method, provided the density of the new and old belts are the same). Anyone done this?


ps. image attached

 

ok well good news: It is your Cam Tower Gasket leaking for sure... I am sure the Head Gasket is NOT leaking any of that oil. With the Cam Tower off it is a good time to check out your lifters; basically just try to push the piston in using your thumb... if it is easy to do the lifter is dead.
There are 3 seals in the cam tower and you should replace them all.

At 40,000 Miles your belts are ready to be changed for sure. Most people change them around 30,000miles.

Should you do the head gasket? This is purely up to you of course... But i would not call it a'while your in there' type of job... Though it is of course not a bad idea depending on the car's mileage... This really just becomes a slippery slope. (like do the Head Gasket, Lap (or re-grind) the Valves/Seats, Replace Springs, basically Re-build the top end)

Or you just fix the oil leak.

As for the belts: you should definitely change these. (You'll need a Full Set of general tools, Flywheel lock, the Flat Wrenches and Balance Shaft Tool are very helpful, Torque Wrench)
Good time to replace the Front Seals too!

Tightening the Belts can be done using the twist method... There is of course controversy over this topic; but i tried using the 'Kriket' tool, and felt it was inconsistent and no better than the twist method. It's been a year since i installed my belts and the car has not blown up...

You will over tighten the Balance Belt and it will whine; you will simply have to loosen it up to quiet it down.

You SHOULD replace the water pump; unless you want to redo the job in the next year! ask me how i know.... :/

Good Luck, we will all be waiting to hear about your progress, issues, and random questions.

-Pete

 

Thanks Pete - I'll leave the head gasket, rather than tinker unnecessarily and break something, and just go ahead with rest. I knew I'd have to tackle the belts at some point, but I think I've read enough to be fairly happy about doing it now.

And go on, I'll bite... what happened to your water pump?

Paul

 

oh it's just I replaced the belts only to have the water pump seize 2 months later... Destroying (fortunately not breaking) the new timing belt... Yeye!!! Do the job again!

 

So we have an A/C delete, stereo delete and rear seat delete. When is someone going to come up with an oil delete? Would solve a lot of headaches.

 

What about water delete? Oh, wait... that's already been done

 

Ah, an oil delete option... how about switching to electric power? Waaaay fewer moving parts also, and higher efficiency. But then what would we do at the weekends? I guess something other than lying on our backs getting dirty and oily. Or, um, maybe not.

Anyway, first question (and apologies for the idiot-level, but I haven't touched the belts etc before): when you say front engine seals, you mean crankshaft, balance and camshaft seals, right? And are there any particular hazards to look out for with those?

 

Suggestion: Read everything you can to research tis process. Ruled of thumb on seals: when one seal leaks, they all will. They're rubber and when one hardens, they're all hardened.

 

Well I'm reading around the subject, and I think I'm almost ready to take my practical exam. Couple of questions though:

Does anyone have experience of using alternatives to a) the pin wrench, and b) the thin 27mm wrench. I may just get the Arnnworx bits (which everyone seems to speak highly of), but a couple of people have described using 90-degree/bent tip pliers instead of the pin wrench, and an adjustable wrench instead of the offset.

(I've decided that I will change the water pump, and I'll get the front engine seals but will see how things look when I get in there... if I can leave the existing seals I probably will, on the basis that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it, especially if you don't quite know what you're doing")

 

Having looked at a couple more videos and read some more, I think these should do the job of the pin wrench:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Siegen-275...ht_2376wt_1125

And an adjustable and/or a not-too-chunky 27mm combination wrench should do for the 27mm thin wrench.

Or am I just trying to cut silly corners?

 

the tools you are mentioning will work fine, the specialty tools just make it easier to do its not cutting corners.

pnbell is right about the balance shaft belt though. mine stills whines and i haevnt gotten in there yet to loosen her up!

 

Thanks, that puts my mind at rest - and makes it a bit easier to prise the cash out of my wallet for the water pump...

 

WYIT. Remember this acronym. It means "While You're In There". It applies in spades with 944's. If there's something that can be replaced in an area that requires a lot of dismantling to get to it, i.e. oil pan gasket, timing belts, etc., use the opportunity to replace seals, pumps or whatever else that can fail later. I've tested the theory and shortcuts or leaving something behind will make you worry with every little unusual sound that something you passed on is now failing. So, while my oil pan was off I replaced my rod bearings and bolts, suspension boots, power steering boots and system flushing. WYIT.

 

Ask and ye shall receive:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...9128dgt1rf3vr5

 

and in case youre a lefty

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...9128dgt1rf3vr5