I'm trying to remove the crankshaft pully bolt. I've locked the flywheel, pulled the fans, hit it with thread blaster, heated it with propane torch and pulled the breaker bar until my lower back finally popped...Damn! I even put the breaker bar handle in the cup of my floor jack to push it and watched the breaker bar bend and the engine started to move up as well. There isn't room to use impact driver in there without pulling the radiator and that creates a whole other host of headaches. This thing turns counter clock-wise to come off, right?? Anyone have any other ideas that won't involve hospitalization?

 

Righty tightey, lefty loosey... 3 foot breaker bar has always worked for me...Bruce

 

gear puller..

 

If the bolt won't loosen your breaker bar isn't long enough (once quoted to me by an old German mechanic).

I used a 4' steel pipe to 'extend' by breaker wrench.


--john

 

He has to get the crank bolt off first, Spencer!

Your breakerbar isn't long enough.

 

a 3ft or more bar should suffice.

 

spray some lug on the threads should help a bit, I was lucky and mine came of easy ^.^

if that still doesn't work just get a longer pipe on your par and that should do it

 

try the old "floor jack assist" method. Take a wrench, attach it to the head of the bolt, and then position the floor jack under the wrench and raise the jack. the bolt will loosen. just make sure the car is secured first.

 

Before you put pipe on your breaker bar, are you using a 1/2"-drive breaker? Get a 3/4" drive T-bar breaker and matching sockets. You'll need it to tighten the bolt anyway.

It isn't pretty when a breaker bar snaps under load from putting a cheater on it.

 

I did try the floor jack on the breaker bar and when It started to lift the engine and bend the breaker bar, I stopped. Bought a 4' piece of pipe which I'll try on the breaker bar tomorrow. I lubed the nut like crazy tonight.

 

get nice and rowdy and cheer for the home team. you got the lubed up part right lolololol

 

One thing that's helped me in the past is to put as much tension as you can on the breaker bar and then hit it with a hammer. I know that there's not much room in there to swing a hammer, and be careful not to hit the radiator (obviously), but the shock might work something like an impact wrench.

Good luck!

 

hmm. I had this problem once. I used a 3 foot breaker bar with a pipe over it for additional leverage and I had to pull with all my force and body weight and the breaker bar was flexing like crazy (though it would snap) until the bolt broke loose.

someone either torqued it way too high /or used red loctite or it's rusted onto the crank. now that I have it properly torqued it isn't hard to take off with a 3 foot breaker bar.

I think the only think that'll work is shear force and lots of leverage.... be carefull though incase the breaker bar breaks you'll go flying back. I think I wore gloves and safety googles lol because I was paranoid the breaker bar was going to break.

 

The starter motor works well for this on some cars. I do not recall if I have used it to pop a 944 crank bolt but I have used it on Toyota trucks a few times.

Otherwise I got a 3/4" socket set from HF on sale and pull it out for jobs like this. With a jack handle on the breaker bar you can get a lot of stuff to move.

 

Went to Home Depot last night and bought a 4' piece of pipe and after my coffee I'll try it on my breaker bar. If I break it (the breaker bar), I'll go invest in a larger one. This things has never been removed and there isn't a hint of rust anywhere since the car is a New Mexico car. I just hope it breaks loose before I end up in full body cast. Already heard my back pop...not good. My old GM projects were never this hard. I think Arnold Scwarzenegger worked for Porsche in 87 putting on crank pulleys. Wish me luck.