Oil Pan Gasket + Con Rods Orientations
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Canada, Quebec
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Question](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
Hi guys
. Ok on my project thread I asked some questions at the end but still no answers. I know there is very good expert here too so I decided to ask. I need to get answers fast because I wait the answers before start making it. This is why I started this thread. ![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
So here they go:
Questions 1. Connecting Rods![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
All my rod bearings and connecting rod are in the same order as I removed them.
BUT, is there a side for the connectiong rod!?!? Exemple all the numbers 6 go driver side or the letters go driver etc..? I have JE pistons and the dome is not as the stock pistons with intake and exhaust valve shapes. This is just a big rectangle in the middle. You can see them in the project thread.
Connecting rod #3
![](http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/999656Rod3.png)
Connecting rod #4
![](http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/657002Rod4.png)
The connecting rod #1 is same stamp as #3, and the #2 same as #4
The other side there nothing, exept the parts number all long of rod.
Finally today I put all the numbers (6) to the driver side. I read this on a technical post so.. I hope this is the good way! Someone can confirm!?
Questions 2. Oil Pan Gasket Installation![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I have some trouble put back my oil pan.. this damn new gasket is gonna make me crazy! I think I will go buy tomorrow some Adhesive Trim.. someone have their own personal tricks with the damn oil pan gasket!?
2 ideas:
If I use adhesive trim to glue the gasket to the block side, and then mount the oil pan on the gasket (dry surfaces).
or
Use Ti-Wrap to retain the gasket on the oil pan and try to get it in place.. I worry for the front and rear rounded parts. Hard to align..
Thanks!
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
So here they go:
Questions 1. Connecting Rods
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
All my rod bearings and connecting rod are in the same order as I removed them.
BUT, is there a side for the connectiong rod!?!? Exemple all the numbers 6 go driver side or the letters go driver etc..? I have JE pistons and the dome is not as the stock pistons with intake and exhaust valve shapes. This is just a big rectangle in the middle. You can see them in the project thread.
Connecting rod #3
![](http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/999656Rod3.png)
Connecting rod #4
![](http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/657002Rod4.png)
The connecting rod #1 is same stamp as #3, and the #2 same as #4
The other side there nothing, exept the parts number all long of rod.
Finally today I put all the numbers (6) to the driver side. I read this on a technical post so.. I hope this is the good way! Someone can confirm!?
Questions 2. Oil Pan Gasket Installation
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I have some trouble put back my oil pan.. this damn new gasket is gonna make me crazy! I think I will go buy tomorrow some Adhesive Trim.. someone have their own personal tricks with the damn oil pan gasket!?
2 ideas:
If I use adhesive trim to glue the gasket to the block side, and then mount the oil pan on the gasket (dry surfaces).
or
Use Ti-Wrap to retain the gasket on the oil pan and try to get it in place.. I worry for the front and rear rounded parts. Hard to align..
Thanks!
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
#3
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I used dental floss when doing pan gasket with the engine in the car. On an engine stand like I assume you are doing yours I did not use any thing. Just some time to let the gasket form to the pan. I take it out of package a few days early and that helps it.
As for the rods. I only worried about matchin the rod cap to the rod. So the 3 digit numbers that are stamped into the rod and cap get matched up so I can see both when put them together. I never worried about how the rods went in the engine.
As for the rods. I only worried about matchin the rod cap to the rod. So the 3 digit numbers that are stamped into the rod and cap get matched up so I can see both when put them together. I never worried about how the rods went in the engine.
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Canada, Quebec
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Thumbs up](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif)
I called my mechanic (the good one..) and he said to me theres no side for the rod.. ![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
As shown in the picture, the numbers 6 are driver side. On the side of the Rods, there was "stamped with many little points" numbers, like 872 on one, 652 on an other etc... They are passenger side. What you think about that!?![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
For the gasket.. I got the help of a buddy who study in industrial mechanic with me. Finally this is what I did:![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
I tried first with dental floss. Thats crap its sleepery all the way.
Then I tried replaced the dental floss with Ti-Wraps to ti-wrap the gasket on the pan and raise it.. not goin' very good too. Plus ive a 4" exhaust so its too close at the rear driver side.
Then I had an idea.. as I put a little bit of high temperature silicone on the 4 corners of the pan and the block, I decided to try use the silicone glue propriety to glue the gasket direct to the block and THEN raise the oil pan. The 4 corners was fine glue but the middle was falling with a corner sometimes. So I added very tiny siliconesome places in the middle to get it glued.
Result.. it took me 10 minutes with this method. I just finished torque the bolts. About 3 times making the sequence at 3ft/lb, and after this 3 time same thing at 6ft/lb.
The gasket look great. No big bulging, just as normal.
Hope he will not leak once the engine will run.. ![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I'm very proud for something: I put back ALLLLLLL the bolts!! The was 2 very bad position bolts I wasn't sure how to put it back there when I removed the pan but.. With a good night.. good breakfast.. I was back in force!![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Before re-assemble the cross-member, cross-overpipe and etc.., I will wait all the day and night. Tomorrow i'm gonna verify the torque a last time to be sure the gasket have not "worked a little" during the night.
![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
As shown in the picture, the numbers 6 are driver side. On the side of the Rods, there was "stamped with many little points" numbers, like 872 on one, 652 on an other etc... They are passenger side. What you think about that!?
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
For the gasket.. I got the help of a buddy who study in industrial mechanic with me. Finally this is what I did:
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
I tried first with dental floss. Thats crap its sleepery all the way.
Then I tried replaced the dental floss with Ti-Wraps to ti-wrap the gasket on the pan and raise it.. not goin' very good too. Plus ive a 4" exhaust so its too close at the rear driver side.
Then I had an idea.. as I put a little bit of high temperature silicone on the 4 corners of the pan and the block, I decided to try use the silicone glue propriety to glue the gasket direct to the block and THEN raise the oil pan. The 4 corners was fine glue but the middle was falling with a corner sometimes. So I added very tiny siliconesome places in the middle to get it glued.
Result.. it took me 10 minutes with this method. I just finished torque the bolts. About 3 times making the sequence at 3ft/lb, and after this 3 time same thing at 6ft/lb.
The gasket look great. No big bulging, just as normal.
![burnout](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/burnout.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I'm very proud for something: I put back ALLLLLLL the bolts!! The was 2 very bad position bolts I wasn't sure how to put it back there when I removed the pan but.. With a good night.. good breakfast.. I was back in force!
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Before re-assemble the cross-member, cross-overpipe and etc.., I will wait all the day and night. Tomorrow i'm gonna verify the torque a last time to be sure the gasket have not "worked a little" during the night.
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's probably too late since you already put the pan on, but here's what Joe was talking about aligning the 3 numbers. I don't think it matter what side these are on, but I think I put them all on the same side.