How to test rear brakes
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
How to test rear brakes
I know that the brake ratio between front and rear is around 70-80% front and 20-30% rear but I have a feeling that my rear brakes are not working at all. My front pads are maybe 30% left and the rears look brand new.
I also have a problem on the track where it seems I'm always running out of brakes, I have to put Hawk Blues in the front, if not I get an incredible vibration from the front wheels as soon as they get a little hot.
So my guess is that I have brakes only in the front and the rears do nothing.
I bled the system and aside from a few bubbles they seem to be fine. I am getting oil flow in the rear when bleeding.
So the question. How do you test if the rear brakes are actually doing anything?
I also have a problem on the track where it seems I'm always running out of brakes, I have to put Hawk Blues in the front, if not I get an incredible vibration from the front wheels as soon as they get a little hot.
So my guess is that I have brakes only in the front and the rears do nothing.
I bled the system and aside from a few bubbles they seem to be fine. I am getting oil flow in the rear when bleeding.
So the question. How do you test if the rear brakes are actually doing anything?
#2
Perform a few hard stops and jump out at hit the rotors and calipers with an infrared temp gun. I can't give you a number but they should be hot. Brake bias can be adjusted with your pads and Hawk Blues are pretty aggressive, so it may be that for a given amount of pedal pressure you are not getting your rear pads to do proportionate work. Hawk Blues in the rear as well would be one suggestion. Good luck!
Cheers
Randy
Cheers
Randy
#3
Nordschleife Master
Jack the rear, spin the wheels and apply the brakes. Do you have a stock brake bias on the master cylinder? This could be faulty though I have never heard of them failing.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Good idea with the temp gun! I would need a reference to compare though. It might get hot just from the bearing and rotation.
How do you adjust the brake bias? dont you need a brake bias valve which I think is not stock
How do you adjust the brake bias? dont you need a brake bias valve which I think is not stock
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Did S2's have a brake bias valve?
#7
Nordschleife Master
Can't see how it could fail but there is always a first time.
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#9
Nordschleife Master
You will find a point when you cannot turn one set of wheels by hand and just about be able to turn the other set. At least with the brake pedal fully depressed you can see if all your wheels are locked and you will know that you have rear brakes.
#10
Professional Hoon
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we put the car on a hoist took the wheels off and jammed a very long bar between the studs and tryed to spin the disk while someone is pushing the break. thats how we tested them to see if they work or not
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
That's a good idea! without bending the studs of course. Having something to attach to the 5 studs would be perfect and the put a big torque wrench on it, all the things I do not have
I'll try the with a long bar.
I'll try the with a long bar.
#12
As far as temp compare to the front wheels, bearings won't heat it up any more in the back than in the front. I'd think you'll see 400-450 degrees F on the front and 350-400 on the rears, but those are guesstimates.
#14
Rennlist Member
On a lift, or jack stands, start the car, put it in gear and see if you can stall the engine by stepping on the brakes. If that works, give it some gas while you step on the brakes with your left foot...
#15
Rennlist Member
By the way - its normal to go thru all of two to three sets of front pads before killing off a set of rears, even w/ a higher pressure rear bias/proportioning valve.
Last edited by Oddjob; 08-05-2011 at 09:12 AM.