torque spec needed
07-05-2011, 12:31 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Austin TX
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Sounds dramatic.
Do as suggested and anneal the new copper washer. Get your banjo bolt from Porsche. Check to make sure the surface where the copper washer sits against the pump is smooth, if it is not remove burrs with a stone. Once you torque it - thats it you can't loosen it unless you put in a new copper washer. The washers are not re-usable even for one torque up.
JB weld will not hold the leak - the pressure is too high. It will crack it free and seep right through. Don't know the exact pressure but I'm guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of 200psi. Also remember 944 motors shake like crazy, especially out at the end of that long arm on the power steering pump.
Do as suggested and anneal the new copper washer. Get your banjo bolt from Porsche. Check to make sure the surface where the copper washer sits against the pump is smooth, if it is not remove burrs with a stone. Once you torque it - thats it you can't loosen it unless you put in a new copper washer. The washers are not re-usable even for one torque up.
JB weld will not hold the leak - the pressure is too high. It will crack it free and seep right through. Don't know the exact pressure but I'm guessing somewhere in the neighborhood of 200psi. Also remember 944 motors shake like crazy, especially out at the end of that long arm on the power steering pump.
07-06-2011, 11:02 AM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am much revived after a couple of days of not even looking at the car. I put the new bolt and washers in this morning. I took everyones good advice. NO LEAKS!!!!!! The new timing belt is whining a little louder then I expected on rev.
I will take real pictures when the new front end is on. It should be here sometime this week, and my body shop will have it painted soon after this goes on http://www.fiberwerks.com/Fiberwerks_944.htm.
I will take real pictures when the new front end is on. It should be here sometime this week, and my body shop will have it painted soon after this goes on http://www.fiberwerks.com/Fiberwerks_944.htm.
Last edited by stogie25; 07-06-2011 at 12:39 PM.
07-06-2011, 11:34 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
FYI -- I've been fighting the leaks on my '69 Triumph, that makes extensive use of copper washers for sealing. They are a poor solution. I've found these Parker "pressure seal washers" are readily available and actually cheaper than copper washers. AND THEY DON"T LEAK!! They don't need high torques to deform like copper. Poor picture, but check with your local hydraulic supply store. They are available in two types, one that is for sealing against threads, the other for smooth shafts (like a banjo bolt)
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...vgnextcat=0139 - BI-MATERIAL CAPTIVE SEALING WASHER
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...vgnextcat=0139 - BI-MATERIAL CAPTIVE SEALING WASHER
07-06-2011, 12:35 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
FYI -- I've been fighting the leaks on my '69 Triumph, that makes extensive use of copper washers for sealing. They are a poor solution. I've found these Parker "pressure seal washers" are readily available and actually cheaper than copper washers. AND THEY DON"T LEAK!! They don't need high torques to deform like copper. Poor picture, but check with your local hydraulic supply store. They are available in two types, one that is for sealing against threads, the other for smooth shafts (like a banjo bolt)
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...vgnextcat=0139 - BI-MATERIAL CAPTIVE SEALING WASHER
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...vgnextcat=0139 - BI-MATERIAL CAPTIVE SEALING WASHER
Thanks,
