Yummybud924

my A/C worked some years ago then it stopped working and now the compressor won't even come on when I press the button (it's an 85.5 updated model).

I was told that the compressor is not coming on because there is no pressure.

anyways I got 2 bottle of r12 yup the real stuff it's original bottles form the 80s....

they are each 14 oz bottles. i'm wondering if this will be enough to fill my A/C. I don't want to convert to the r134A that's why I got this stuff. also don't want ot use the fake butane crap and risk a fire if it leaks out.

i'm guessing I have a leak somewhere if my air conditioning system was working a few years ago and not anymore so i'm not sure how long it'll last anyways.

but should 28oz be enough to recharge it and get it to work or do I need more. not sure if I can get more it was tough finding this....

Van

There should be a sticker in the engine compartment that tells you.

Yummybud924

ok thanks.

if I need more is it a bad idea to mix in the redtek hydrocarbon based stuff. I can get it cheap from canadian tire or lordco here and it's like a propane based refrigeratn I think and it is suppose to be okay to mix with r12.

i'm just worried about fire hazzard if it leaks out.

pjg

From Napa's website 33.5 oz : http://www.napabeltshose.com/news/in...&show=newsitem

944Ross

NO NO NO!! You'd be better off with 28 oz of pure R-12. (May even have some still in there) Fill only until you reach the proper pressures for the ambient temperature.

porsche_addict

I'm assuming you are in BC since you mentioned Lordco. Honestly, with the weather we get on the West Coast you can probably convert to R134A and still be plenty comfortable. Unless you can be sure that your system is leak free I wouldn't charge it with R12. At least make sure the system is solid and without leaks before recharging.

Yummybud924

probably a good idea to convert to 134a cus it's so much easier and cheaper to get than r12 which is pretty impossible to find around here.

but i'm not sure what goes into the converting. I heard you have to take it to a shop to get all the old stuff out, replace the oil in the compressor and replace seals. don't really want to take it to a shop and spend a ton of money.

if I put the r12 in now it'll probably leak out out and then i'll have find more r12 and it's really expensive even on ebay.

Yummybud924

I had someone tell me that the redtek stuff was okay to use but I guess not i'm not going to try it. I was mostly worried as it's propane and running pressurized propane doesn't seem like a good idea.

will951

You can buy an R143 conversion kit (it's just an adapter) for around $10 at any local auto parts store.

austin944

I've bought it on ebay for around $25/can, and this was a 14oz size. I wouldn't call that real expensive, but if you think it's going to leak out, you might want to try putting in a small can (12 oz) and do a leak test. Then save the 2 14oz cans for after the leak(s) are fixed.

I recently bought a quality leak detection kit from RobinAir which uses the flourescent UV dye, and it helped find a very small leak that I could not find with an electronic detector (hose connection for a hose going to the compressor).

Yummybud924

from what i read it's much more than just replacing the connector.

944Ross

There's "right" and there's "helluva lot better than nothing". "Right" would be replacing the condenser, expansion valve, and all the hoses (mostly due to age), new drier, a good flush, and recharge with the adapter fittings. That will get you bone-chilling performance like is needed in Houston or Phoenix.

I've done both an Early and a Late 944 with nothing but a new drier and O-rings, drain and refill the compressor with Ester oil, and the adapters. I pulled a vacuum to make sure it was tight, then recharged. I'd say performance is more than adequate for my conditions, which are hot (100 deg. ) and dry (not much dehumidification). Total cost excluding equipment was under $50.

PS -- the cheap aluminum adapters are junk, go to NAPA and get the steel fittings, with good schrader valves, P/N 409902 and 409903 conversion fittings, $7 each