Griffin951

I just bought my porsche 951 and I'm looking for ideas for mods that aren't gonna take forever to put in or cost 1234567890987654321 dollars, and still be a car i can drive on the streets, so far i have a spec lindsey racing clutch stage one and a chip set, ideas

MM951

Dual Port wastegate

Stephencs601

Mtune, k27 turbo, suspension work, 4" exhaust, adjustable wastegate just to name a few. I am looking at 330-350rwhp in mine within weeks.

flightline

What mileage and condition is the car in? Before you start putting money into mods make sure that everything else on the car is solid. If you don't have records of the most recent oil, coolant, brake fluid and transaxle fluid changes go ahead and take care of those. Also timing and balance shaft belts. From there maybe look at doing an exhaust and larger turbo.

Paulyy

id also before mods, oil change, coolant, and the rest of the oils and fluids. make sure there's no leaks ect then mods.

best mods combination of mods to do IMO are:
Dualport Wastegate - TiAL or Lindsey Racing
MAF - Rogue Tuning M Tune or Vittesse V Vlex
MBC - find these anywhere

JohnKoaWood

IMHO, LEAVE IT STOCK..

that is all...

VWaddict

Belts. Water Pump. If you don't have recent documented proof that they've been replaced, treat them like a grenade.

If they go, every dollar that you pour into the project will be decimated.

Griffin951

all fluids has just been replaced and the car has 107xxx miles but i just put a new clutch in, i dont know that last time th timing belts have been replaced but how much are they and how long does it take to put replace then and get it all set up correctly

eric951turbo

Cheapest thing you can do is shim your wastegate, empty or remove your cat, and install some autothority chips.
I have the chips for sale if you want them, 40$ plus shipping (pm me if interested).
shims you can get on Lindsey Racing, 9$ each http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Part...EGATESHIM.html

Thats the first thing I did when I got my turbo, and I believe I've gain at least 50hp just by doing that.

But I went a the $$$$$$$$$ direction a year after, funny thing is, I don't believe that I've gain much more power that I had with the autothority chips.

You could run like this for a while, you would notice a huge difference. But as this setup makes the car run leaner, I would consider changing your fuel injectors and fpr with time afterwards.

Another thing could be just by installing a LR boost enhancer. I also have a good one for sale (used 2 months), 50$ plus shipping.

dykaar

You're getting lots of suggestions for HP and maintenance. What I did, after I started tracking the car occasionally, was brakes. I warped the stock rotors twice because I (a) brake too much and (b) was using the stock pad, which doesn't transmit enough heat out through the pad.

With bigger brakes, I needed bigger wheels to clear the rotors and brake ducts to cool them (I stll brake too much). Then I heeded stiffer suspension and sway bars to keep the tires off the body. Add a fire extinguisher and Harness for the track.

MUCH later I did the chip, shims, camber plate and a bolt in roll bar. I got a race seat because I bought it for my wife when she was pregnant.

If you're going to track the car, get the triangulation supports for the front sway bar supports. They crack. That's what put me in the Armco. Also think about rebuilt control arms and new control arm bushings. The 968 rear bushing has almost no movement compared to the 86 version.

I'm also rebuilding the rear suspension. After almost thirty years, the bushings are distorted and sloppy.

My focus was on handling and stopping first, HP last. I spent a couple years bone stock learning to drive on the track. The car is a keeper, take your time and enjoy the experience. See my link .

Regards,

doug

86 951 (http://www.pcaucr.org/visuals/photos...egory&catid=61)
01 E320 (W210) 4matic Wagon (http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...body-do-2.html)
00 540i-6 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=976)
94 855 turbo Wagon (sold in 09)
85 535i-5 (sold in 07)
76 300D (sold in 92)
83 944 (sold in 86)
I apparently only buy cars designated by numbers

doabarrelroll

Get your engine is really good shape first. This means new belts, rollers, seals, gaskets, etc. If the engine is going to be pushed really hard, these need to be working well to handle the excessive stress. You don't know if certain components may be nearing the end of their life and it would be good to do them while everything is apart.

V2Rocket

an exhaust would be a nice way to start things off. not expensive, not terrible to replace.

VWaddict

If you have no record of recent belts replacements, I'd say you might have to conclude that they need replacement.

I've worked on the basis that they MUST be replaced every 30,000 miles, or three years, whichever happens sooner.

In the 6 years that I've had my car, I'm on my third timing belt. -It depends if you're a gambler or not... but I'm not, and so far as I'm concerned it's like playing Russian Roulette. -Most of the reasons that people end up transplanting Chevy V8's into these bodies is because a timing belt went south.

The belt is an Achilles heel, so the choice may be between faster and more vulnerable, or closer to stock and more reliable.

There are a couple of belt tensioning options, and a couple of tensioner designs as I recall, but I usually pay about $1000 for a belt job on my '89. -Doing it yourself will cost less, but you'll NEED to be sure that you can set the tension correctly.

Keith

carbongecko

exhaust, maf sensor, or upgrade the intercooler

sydneyman

what kind of mileage do you have? if over 100-120,000 i would say replace your rod bearings... much more catastrophe potential than even a timing belt going... ask me how i know... #2 is usually the culprit... you could replace that leaky oil pan gasket and motor mounts while you're in there...