TheDice951

i have searched thruogh these threads for onths now and figured i eliminated all my issues with my a/c.... before i did anything to it, the a/c was only getting to about 70 degrees... then the compressor went out. so i searched on here and ended up doing a complete r134 conversion. new packings, new receiver dryer, new compressor and checked expansion valve and cleaned out condessor. all are good and just had the a/c servised today. they pulled a vaccum for 45 minutes and then tested for leaks. all came out good. then they put 33oz of r134 in and the temp only got to 60 when sitting still. the air takes a bit to cool down and its not as cold as it should be. like i said it was just serviced today and no leaks. he said pressures look good as well.

when this was happening before i checked the heater switch thing and the recirculating flaps and they were both fine.

oh i also replaced the pressure switch

max_boost951

You sure the compressor clutch is engaging? I would recheck pressures. 30-40 psi on low side and 200-240 psi on high side?
Should blow cold if pressure are good. Pressures will show if there is a blockage. You can have a slightly low charge and pressures read okay.

kev951

how hot is the ambient temp? The ac on older cars usually gets about 30 degrees max colder than the outside ambient temp. Even though you converted to r134 and put all new parts, it doesn't mean that your ac is as good as a 2011 ac system.

944Ross

33 oz is too much, I think. When doing a conversion, you use ~80% of the R-12 capacity. Best to fill until the pressures are as listed above.

My NA's converted system will make your nipples hard on a 90-deg day.

TheDice951

the compressor is fine and does engage. i will hook up a gauge and see what its sitting at... 33 is what Alldata says which is the site we use at the shop for warrenty work... nothing is clogged i ran pressurized air through the lines and all that before install.... we will see when i look at the pressures tomorrow....

thanks guys

pnbell

Not sure what you mean by heater switch; but check the heater control valve - its a vacuum controlled diagram located near the reference sensors at the back of the engine. They often get stuck open, you can actually close it by holding it.

Also check the two AC lines going into the fire wall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They should feel cold if the AC is working...

944Ross

Alldata must assume it's still an R-12 system. That is what my system's tag says for R-12, 33.5 oz.

xsboost90

yeah 33oz is alot. I usually put two pounds in and r134 should be running in the 21-27lb range to make 25degrees at the evaporator, 150-175ish on the high side to keep that condensor at 100 degrees or so.. Sounds like its over charged.

944Ross

2 lbs or two cans? 24 oz (2 cans) is about what mine took.

xsboost90

oh yes two cans you are right. You can get the cans w/ the oil already in them PAG or whatever.

Tedro951

I'm assuming the fans were running, or there is no improvement at highway speeds?

TheDice951

it gets a bit better while driving..... and i tested the fans yesterday

TheDice951

i just checked the pressure, the low side was 26-30 and the high side is 165ish..... i let some frion out to get those pressures..... i bought a gauge set and a can of r134. the pressures are good now so i will see what it feels like when i head to work today..... i dont have a thermomiter so i cant tell you what the temps are... i will check when i get to work.... the temp is suppose to be about 95degrees around 3-4:00 today so i hope it works a bit better.

944Ross

26 psi corresponds to 30 deg., 30 psi corresponds to 35. (these are fluid temps, not evaporator discharge air temps) You should be good.

TheDice951

we will see.... thanks