83 944

I have a very similar issue and I replaced the FPR and all is well thus far. Granted it's only been a day.

For your ground bult I assum any steel bolt will do fine. Like the 10mm and 13mm grounds you see all around the car. I hope everytime gets sorted out with your car.

Mike

YoungerThan944

Parts finally came in. No dice. I'm seriously unhappy about this, and at this point might have to resort to going to a shop.
3 out of the 4 months that I get to drive my car each year it's been sitting in a garage refusing to run.

What would you Vancouverites recommend? Scan? Weissach? Blitskreig? Others?

Rich Sandor

SCAN is closest to you, and they are a little more intimate with 944s than most shops.

Weissach, MB Euro, and Blitzkreig are all good shops too, but they are little further away, along False Creek in Kits and near Science World.

Check my PM regarding the wiring harness and see how it goes. Also, I just read your note about the grounds.. Yes.. these cars are VERY finicky when it comes to the grounds. Make sure the grounds are 100% grounded. I even added an extra ground cable from the clutch housing to the front of the engine, and that alone made a noticeable difference in my car. (It's also part of the famous "iceshark' lighting kit, although I fabbed mine from Lordco parts.)

YoungerThan944

Found a vacuum leak, started it up, and it died the same way as before.


Except this time, VIDEO! Hooray!

The car is already warm (halfway between the operating temperature lines on the gauge).


Excuse the fumbling with the keys and the occasional bits of bad filming. Thoughts?

Cone_eater

From just the sounds of everything it's a fuel issue. Even though its getting the correct pressure doesn't mean it's getting the right amount of fuel past the injectors. Does the exhaust smell gassy?
Ya may run some sea foam through it. Its a miracle worker and inexpensive try. Might have some junk built up in there, plus it can't hurt.

hopps

It definitely SOUNDS like a fuel issue. Checking the injectors wouldn't hurt one bit. Witchhunter is a great place for that if you have time.

If you haven't already, check the gap between the screw on the flywheel, and the S&R sensor. I saw that you had a shop replace them, but in my quick glance over this thread, I didn't see anything about you checking that gap. It's quite simple, just get an allen head with a long handle, and loosen the flywheel screw very little, and try starting it up. When I replaced my clutch, I forgot all about putting that screw in, so I had to do it with everything assembled, and doing that method was the easiest way to check it. I too thought it was my sensors (one had been ghetto rigged to work, so replacing them wasn't a bad idea, but wasn't the problem).

However, if that's not the problem, I'm not so sure what the consequences of making the gap smaller would be. I wouldn't think anything unless you moved it so far it's scraping the surface of the sensors.

YoungerThan944

Thanks for the suggestions,

The exhaust isn't very gassy, and I doubt it's the injectors. I just replaced them with freshly rebuilt ones, after doing my fuel filter a few hundred kilometers before. I've also checked the S&R sensor gap, and it is within spec. The bracket was not moved during my clutch job, and it had never broke down on me before that.

Could a frayed negative battery cable cause something as extreme as this? I'm going to replace it anyway since it's not in the greatest condition - when I bend it there are a bunch of cracks going to the metal that show up in the rubber. Didn't see any arcing, but it might be a culprit.

JohnKoaWood

While it is running, try grabbing the spark plug wires...

OR

Turn off the light in the garage while it is running.. do you see sparks?

YoungerThan944

Thanks, but it wouldn't start like that again tonight. Replaced the negative battery cable, nothing new. Tow truck on it's way, looks like it's time to blow a paycheque at the shop.

JohnKoaWood

Just out of curriosity, did you try running it with the Idle Stabilization Valve unplugged?

YoungerThan944

No, I never tried that. Could the ISV cause it to run that poorly?

mhr

Bad ISV made my s2 idle bounce up and down at times by 1000RPM and stall on occasion pushing in the clutch at higher rpm's and then stopping but never stalled or cut out from idle. But it is really easy to check just unplug it before you start the car and try it out.

YoungerThan944

Soo I took it into SCAN the other night, got a call from them today.

Turns out it was the connection to the MAF. I had cleaned it a bit, but apparently not thoroughly enough. I'm back on the road for two weeks before school starts up at least!

Thanks for everyone's contributions, I really appreciate it!

Fintro11

Time for the timing belt and seals lol