Replacing Cam tower gasket - tips?
#1
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Replacing Cam tower gasket - tips?
I am in the process of replacing the cam tower gasket and would appreciate any suggestions of what to look out for when reinstalling the camshaft, any tips and tricks.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Just don't drop the bolts. There really isn't much to it. If you're replacing the gasket because it was leaking, check the cam tower for flatness. They can warp over time (mine was).
#3
Race Director
3 things.
1) Oil will drain all over the headers. Making a mess and causing smoking when you start the car later.
2) have a friend help catch the lifters when you pull the tower. Some will stay in and others will popout depending on cam position
3) move the crank to top dead center. when you ren install make sure the cam is on the timing marks. You don't want to bend a valve when you put tower back on the car.
1) Oil will drain all over the headers. Making a mess and causing smoking when you start the car later.
2) have a friend help catch the lifters when you pull the tower. Some will stay in and others will popout depending on cam position
3) move the crank to top dead center. when you ren install make sure the cam is on the timing marks. You don't want to bend a valve when you put tower back on the car.
#5
Rennlist Member
I wrap my headers with Saran wrap before pulling the tower, so the oil doesn't get on the headers. Otherwise, the smoke on start up is pretty bad. Test the lifter button to make sure they are stiff. Jack the driver side and lower the passenger side so to can rotate the tower off without dropping lifters. Bang the Allen bit into each bolt to ensure it's fully fully seated, and use a 1/2 inch ratchet for better control and more torque to remove the bolts. Put assembly lube on the sides of the lifters to keep them from falling on reinstallation, and on the cam lobes for start up lube. Store the lifters in oil if they will be out of the car for more than an afternoon, so they don't drain and clatter on start up. Buy a new cam gear bolt in advance if you plan to replace the seal behind the gear, since most end up drilling that bolt off. Make sure the gasket is right side up -- it fits upside down, but blocks an oil port that way.
#6
Burning Brakes
I’ve only one thing to add… store the cam tower Porsche side up allowing the residual oil to drain out so when you set it back in position oil will not drip on your new gasket.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Agreed with the above. Also pull the lifters from the bores when the tower is off making sure to note location of each. (do not mix them up)
Clean the tower well. Leave it porsche side up on some paper towels to drain. Also turn it on end standing against a wall for 20 minutes per end which will drain it further. (another 1/2 cup came out of mine)
Change the gaskets in the front and rear of the cam housing. Use gasket spray sealer on all. Aviation cement on the small oring seal in the front and around the lip of the cam seal.
Don't forget the thin plastic cam seal between the cam face and seal race. A thin coat of aviation cement does not hurt either here.
Change the cheese head cam bolt up front.
When reassembling use a little engine assy lube or very light coat of oil on the lifter bodies. On top of the valves put a drop of assy lube. The goal is to keep oil from dripping on the gasket.
Make sure everything is clean before the gasket goes on. Clean the head and cover with acetone. Spray the gasket with sealer. Let it tack. Put the gasket on the head and place the tower onto it.. Tighten the bolts slow and even making sure the dowels fall in place. You might have to rock the tower a bit to get it to sit down before torquing the bolts to spec.
A magnet stick helps get the bolts in. I used a long allen driver socket with a magnet stuck to the side..
Nick
Clean the tower well. Leave it porsche side up on some paper towels to drain. Also turn it on end standing against a wall for 20 minutes per end which will drain it further. (another 1/2 cup came out of mine)
Change the gaskets in the front and rear of the cam housing. Use gasket spray sealer on all. Aviation cement on the small oring seal in the front and around the lip of the cam seal.
Don't forget the thin plastic cam seal between the cam face and seal race. A thin coat of aviation cement does not hurt either here.
Change the cheese head cam bolt up front.
When reassembling use a little engine assy lube or very light coat of oil on the lifter bodies. On top of the valves put a drop of assy lube. The goal is to keep oil from dripping on the gasket.
Make sure everything is clean before the gasket goes on. Clean the head and cover with acetone. Spray the gasket with sealer. Let it tack. Put the gasket on the head and place the tower onto it.. Tighten the bolts slow and even making sure the dowels fall in place. You might have to rock the tower a bit to get it to sit down before torquing the bolts to spec.
A magnet stick helps get the bolts in. I used a long allen driver socket with a magnet stuck to the side..
Nick
Last edited by ClassJ; 06-20-2011 at 12:15 AM.
#9
Spell Checker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Eddie is correct about the assembly lube, but you want to go ahead and put it in the freezer first so that the viscosity is way down. Lifters will stay in place just fine with the cooler assembly lube. Otherwise, you are covered by the advice in this thread.
#11
Spell Checker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually thought that one up myself iirc. Down to help me get mine running in crystal city? I finally got around to getting a pto registration number, so now I am moving on to my car. Thinking sometime when it isn't so hot out, maybe september?
#12
Instructor
This is a very old thread but very helpful tips for replacing the cam tower gasket that helped me doing the job.
I'll add one tip from my experience:
Make sure to clean out the bolt holes as they will have some oil in the bottom, especially the lower bolts. There is a low torque spec on these bolts (20 Nm) and oil down in the bores may cause bolts to torque without being tight.
I'll add one tip from my experience:
Make sure to clean out the bolt holes as they will have some oil in the bottom, especially the lower bolts. There is a low torque spec on these bolts (20 Nm) and oil down in the bores may cause bolts to torque without being tight.