joster86turbo

** post 4 has data findings** So as the title says, I have a no start issue. I haven't been able to start the car in a week now.

I traced an intermittent no start problem to the speed and reference sensors awhile back so i figured that was the problem. well new sensor and bracket are in and gapped using the glued washer method, but still no spark.

I posted a thread over here: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-guidance.html
that has a more detailed explanation.

I figured I would try over here to hopefully get more responses.

I'm trying not to rush things, but I really need help figuring this out before next week.

thanks guys
Jonathan

Hollywood D

Well first you need to verify that you are getting fuel and spark. Spark is easy to check with an in-line spark tester. To check fuel, pull the nut off of the end of the fuel rail. You can have an assistant crank the car over while you hold some kind of catch can or someting at the end of the fuel rail to catch any fuel that comes out.

www.clarks-garage.com is your friend

Last time I had a no-start, it was the fuel pump relay that went out. That's an easy fix. I had spark but no fuel. Popped a new relay back in...done

running_cold924

i had a no spark and it turned out to be one of my wires came loose from my alarm bypass.....no power to ecu.

joster86turbo

where to go next? here's a run down of where I'm at....

So I was able to get a hold of and oscilloscope and both the speed and reference sensors at the DME are good with their voltage; 2.5v peak-to-peak .

The coil itself will get 12v as a supply, but is getting nothing as a trigger while cranking on DME terminal 1 (output to coil).

I verified with the DME relay jumper that the fuel pump comes one and fills the fuel rail, but with a check for 10v at the injector harness end when cranking it's not getting any voltage.

We used Alldata for all the ohm and voltage reading at the DME. here's what we got:

Grounds:
key off: | resistance-ohms: | result:

(pin 5 to G1) | Continuity | Continuity
(pin 5 to 16) | Continuity |Continuity
(pin 5 to 17) |Continuity |Continuity
(pin 5 to 19) |Continuity |Continuity
(pin 5 to 28) |Continuity | 20.57k


Magnetic Coil Sensor:
sensor type| resistance-ohms: | result:

Mark (pin 8 to 27) | 900-1050| 164.8k
Speed (pin 25 to 26) | 900-1050 |31,120


Coolant Temperature Sensor:
temperature F | resistance-ohms: | result:

68 degree (pin 5 to 13) | 2200-2700| 1175
176-194 degree (pin 5 to 13) | 210-350|1175
*outside temp ~ 95 F


Air Temperature Sensor:
temperature F | resistance-ohms: | result:

68 degree (pin 6 to 22) | 2200-2700| 1178
104-122 degree (pin 6 to 22) | 700-1000| 1178


Throttle Switch:
position | resistance-ohms: | result:

Closed (pin 5 to 2) | Continuity | 47500
Full Load (pin 5 to 3) | Continuity | 47400


Altitude Sensor:
change with alt. | resistance-ohms: | result:

(pin 5 to 30) below 3000' | infinity |1401
(pin 5 to 30) above 3000' | 0-2 |1401
*located at sea level


Air Flow Sensor:
at rest | resistance-ohms | result:

supply (pin 6 to 9) | 200-600 | 79,600
load (closed) (pin 6 to 7) | 70-140 | 37,400
load (flap opened to max.) (pin 6 to 7) | 150-450 | not tested




All voltage checks at DME resulted in range. including:

-Grounds
-Start Signal
-Main Relay Supply
-Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Throttle Switch
-Oxygen Sensor
-Air Flow Sensor
-Fuel Pump Relay

So this is for all the DME guru's out there. where do you go from here with this data?
Any other check you guys think are worth checking just shout it out. I've either done it and can tell you the results I got, or would be glad to try it out if I haven't.

Thanks
Jonathan

joster86turbo

went to check the alarm bypass, the jumper wires are still intact. took them out and repositioned just incase; same results.

joster86turbo

A bit more info. The car is pretty much stock.

I have the cat cut out, LBE, cycle valve delete, and vitesse AFM chip.

just to cancel it out I put the stock DME chip back in and the cycle valve.

same result. engine cranks but no start.

fast951

If you are not getting a signal out of DME #1 (it gets pulled to ground); Have you bypassed the KLR?
To bypass KLR: disconnect KLR connector and jumper pins #9 and #16 on the connector itself.

If it causes DME #1 to fire, your problem is in the KLR (either KLR chip or KLR box). If after bypassing KLR, you are still not getting a signal off of DME #1 to coil, then your DME box is bad...