IGROWL

+1

I also received a set from Joe and have that on my list of things to do this weekend. I will take pictures because I have my shade set up with a little modification I did to it so the shade opens and closes with the hatch.

I am glad I read this write up first because I did not realize I would have to drill out the rivets.

Thanks Cyber

IGROWL

That didn't take long at all. I went out after I posted the above note and was done in less than an hour.

My old caps were in worse shape than I realized.

IGROWL

I modified my old shade and removed the plastic pole inside and changed it to a metal one. I used a piece of chain link fence that you use to pull the chain link and attach it to the poles. I than moved the hooks a little closer and now they hook to the hatch itself. Now when I open the hatch the shade stays fully extended and when I close the hatch I have the items in the hatch covered but I can still unhook it and let it retract if I want to.

IGROWL

A few shots of the old and the new caps. I can see why Joe put a extra nut and washer in the bag. Thanks Joe.

IGROWL

All done with new caps installed now.

Cyberpunky

nice mod. John Koa wood has sent me the measurements to make an aluminium bar, so I will be making one up, as although mine isn't broken like I thought it was, it sags badly. I like your idea of attaching it to hatch but not sure if I will go that far. Am just happy to have it working again

peace

Joe Jackson

Bruce and Lynda, great write ups and pictures. The always-extended mod to the hatch cover is really cool. It's a very practical idea.

The included screws and nuts allow installation without a pop riveter but they definitely require some patience and dexterity. For anyone else contemplating the installation, if you tape the nuts inside of the stamped metal shell first before putting the second end cap on, you'll have an easier time getting the screw started. You can then hold the nut with some needle nose pliers to tighten it.

Instead of drilling out the pop rivets you can try what I did which, if done correctly, is much easier and quicker than drilling. As your stock end caps are likely cracked to pieces already, remove whatever is left exposing the rivet head entirely. Using some end cutters, cut the head off the rivet but not all in one shot (remember my comment about doing this correctly?). If you snip it all in one shot, you'll distort the rivet body too much and it won't push through the sheet metal easily. If you cut through using 3-4 pinches rotating the cutters bout the body a bit each time, the body will stay round enough to easily push though. If you do make the mistake and distort the body, use some pliers to reshape the body and you'll eventually work it through the hole.

Greg, good to hear you got yours installed ok. I wish I had a way to make the installation far easier but there's no good (and cost effective) solution I can think of.