A/C Cool but not cold. What to do?
05-09-2011, 10:27 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
A/C Cool but not cold. What to do?
I believe my car is original R12. Today on the first hot day of the year I wanted to use my A/C I have used it a few times over the winter when it was warmer out but nothing really where I would be able to tell. I turned it on today and noticed its just not as cold as it normally is. Never really got cold. So that brings me to the question of what should I do about it? It looks like I could get some old cans of R12 from some sources, but what about oil? I think I need a little bit of oil and freon.
It made a squeal noise for a few seconds then it would kick on.
It made a squeal noise for a few seconds then it would kick on.
05-09-2011, 10:59 PM
#2
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Not that you need to go this far, but I ended up replacing the stock compressor with a Sanden retro/upgrade R-12 compressor from Zims on my 924S several years ago. That A/C would freeze me out of the car on the hottest North Texas summer days... 110+. Highly recommended and not a bad price.
05-10-2011, 09:37 AM
#3
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The belt squeal means the belt is slipping on the compressor pully and should be tightened --a little.
Since it "is not as cold as normal", it may just need a R12 top up. You could call a few shops and see if they carry R12----many chains do not. I found a local Brake Masters, 1 in the entire PHX area still did. They have a promo now for "free checks" on AC systems.
You could also check to see if you have an oil leaking compressor at the front pully. If you see a larger than normal oil pool/drips, you need to reseal the compressor.
DO NOT do a DIY and use FREEZE 12 or any of the non R12 or R134a freons. Once you do, the majority of the shops will no touch your AC. It contaminates their equipment.
To do a DIY conversion, you need to have a decent vacuum pump, guages, kit, new "O" rings, receiver dryer, and an AC component flush. This is not a difficult job----just do it the right way or pay a shop.
Lastly, where do you think you can get " a few old cans of R12". Mexico? Even on ebay, you need a licence (self test) from the reputable sellers. I guess maybe Craigslist. In AZ it is the Mexican R12 and I am not sure of the quality or seller.
I did a conversion a few years ago and still get vent temps in the high 20s or low 30sF.
GL
John
Since it "is not as cold as normal", it may just need a R12 top up. You could call a few shops and see if they carry R12----many chains do not. I found a local Brake Masters, 1 in the entire PHX area still did. They have a promo now for "free checks" on AC systems.
You could also check to see if you have an oil leaking compressor at the front pully. If you see a larger than normal oil pool/drips, you need to reseal the compressor.
DO NOT do a DIY and use FREEZE 12 or any of the non R12 or R134a freons. Once you do, the majority of the shops will no touch your AC. It contaminates their equipment.
To do a DIY conversion, you need to have a decent vacuum pump, guages, kit, new "O" rings, receiver dryer, and an AC component flush. This is not a difficult job----just do it the right way or pay a shop.
Lastly, where do you think you can get " a few old cans of R12". Mexico? Even on ebay, you need a licence (self test) from the reputable sellers. I guess maybe Craigslist. In AZ it is the Mexican R12 and I am not sure of the quality or seller.
I did a conversion a few years ago and still get vent temps in the high 20s or low 30sF.
GL
John
05-10-2011, 10:43 AM
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
1. How much is a license to get?
2. R12 is sold on craigslist. I was thinking of buying a can of r12 and getting the gauges to go with it to top off my A/C.
3. I could convert it, but how much does that run. I'm not sure I would be able to do that myself.
For this year I am looking to get by for the summer it sounds bad to say, but I have other projects going on and without A/C and driving to work with business cas it will be a little warm.
2. R12 is sold on craigslist. I was thinking of buying a can of r12 and getting the gauges to go with it to top off my A/C.
3. I could convert it, but how much does that run. I'm not sure I would be able to do that myself.
For this year I am looking to get by for the summer it sounds bad to say, but I have other projects going on and without A/C and driving to work with business cas it will be a little warm.
05-10-2011, 11:39 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Test is free, cannot remember where I found it online but it is easy. When I bought my stuff about 8/9 years ago I purchase 3 30# cylinders (still have 2 1/2) and a case of cans (just in case) Again I cannot remember, but was online. Price of converting I have no idea as I hope to stay with r-12 for awhile longer. Like John all my cars (944's and 928's have vent temps in the high 20's or low 30's (very comfortable)
05-10-2011, 12:57 PM
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
Would it be a bad idea to buy some unused cans of R12 and gauges and try to fill it myself. I have done this to R134a before with no issues. But it seems doing this with r12 is taboo?
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05-10-2011, 07:54 PM
#9
Drifting
Don't tighten the belt, don't use the AC until it's inspected. If your system didn't suddenly decompress, you shouldn't need any oil. The belt squeal may be an indicator that your compressor is on its way out. The best case scenario is the system needs to be topped off. Hopefully the worst case is it needs a new front bearing and servicing.
DIYer's typically do more damage than good, and the cost of getting EPA certified so you can buy R12, a half-decent set of gauges and the R12 itself would go a long way to having someone with the expertise and qualifications repair your system.
And as a FYI, the EPA offers a $10k reward for unreported violations and is authorized to assess fines up to $27,500 per day, per violation for venting. And I've seen it happen to DIYers.
05-10-2011, 08:01 PM
#10
Race Car
Thread Starter
Yes, bad idea. Take it to a reputable shop to do the work. Typically the diagnosis is free and you'll pay for whatever repairs are needed.
Don't tighten the belt, don't use the AC until it's inspected. If your system didn't suddenly decompress, you shouldn't need any oil. The belt squeal may be an indicator that your compressor is on its way out. The best case scenario is the system needs to be topped off. Hopefully the worst case is it needs a new front bearing and servicing.
DIYer's typically do more damage than good, and the cost of getting EPA certified so you can buy R12, a half-decent set of gauges and the R12 itself would go a long way to having someone with the expertise and qualifications repair your system.
And as a FYI, the EPA offers a $10k reward for unreported violations and is authorized to assess fines up to $27,500 per day, per violation for venting. And I've seen it happen to DIYers.
Don't tighten the belt, don't use the AC until it's inspected. If your system didn't suddenly decompress, you shouldn't need any oil. The belt squeal may be an indicator that your compressor is on its way out. The best case scenario is the system needs to be topped off. Hopefully the worst case is it needs a new front bearing and servicing.
DIYer's typically do more damage than good, and the cost of getting EPA certified so you can buy R12, a half-decent set of gauges and the R12 itself would go a long way to having someone with the expertise and qualifications repair your system.
And as a FYI, the EPA offers a $10k reward for unreported violations and is authorized to assess fines up to $27,500 per day, per violation for venting. And I've seen it happen to DIYers.
Okay okay. So I get in my car today. Same thing it squeals for a few seconds then stops(gonna replace the belt) then I noticed the air was cool. So I started driving the temp was a little cooler than yesterday. I noticed that my air doesn't get any stronger when I press the Recycle button. There is no difference with it pushed in or out. Could this be causing my issue of not ice cold air?
Also is it part of the HVAC controls or is that switch separate?
05-10-2011, 10:41 PM
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Okay so I just looked at this a little more. Should recirculate come on when I press the snowflake/AC button. With the A/C button not pressed in I notice a difference between fresh air and recirculate, but with the A/C button pressed in there isn't a difference between fresh and recirc. Is that how it should work?
05-11-2011, 04:06 PM
#14
Drifting
What was the ambient air temperature and the high/low side pressures?
Verify the recirculation flaps are opening/closing with the AC on when you press the recirculation switch. If they're not, you have a vacuum solenoid failure, pinched/disconnected vacuum line, bad switch on the controller or a bad controller.
Verify the recirculation flaps are opening/closing with the AC on when you press the recirculation switch. If they're not, you have a vacuum solenoid failure, pinched/disconnected vacuum line, bad switch on the controller or a bad controller.
05-11-2011, 04:19 PM
#15
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I just converted a 951 to 134a and is blowing 38 degrees out the center vent, so yea I'd say you have a problem.
Hook up a set of gauges and see what the pressures are. Is the compressor clutch even engaged and running? Lots of stuff to diagnose first.
Hook up a set of gauges and see what the pressures are. Is the compressor clutch even engaged and running? Lots of stuff to diagnose first.