Priming Oil Pump after Rebuild
05-09-2011, 01:52 PM
#1
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Priming Oil Pump after Rebuild
So, I've read through probably 50 posts about this sort of thing and I've tried everything:
1. Pouring oil in the galleys of the oil filter screw
2. Rotating the crank counter-clockwise to get oil back into the pump
3. Pumping oil into the rear of the sandwich plate through the "to cooler" line
4. Pumping oil through the OPRV hole
Would it make sense to pump oil into the oil pressure sender hole? It seems like that directly leads to the oil pump.
1. Pouring oil in the galleys of the oil filter screw
2. Rotating the crank counter-clockwise to get oil back into the pump
3. Pumping oil into the rear of the sandwich plate through the "to cooler" line
4. Pumping oil through the OPRV hole
Would it make sense to pump oil into the oil pressure sender hole? It seems like that directly leads to the oil pump.
05-09-2011, 04:36 PM
#2
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My favorite for high end rebuilds is use a pressurized solevent tank that is usually used for HVAC work and fill it with my break in oil. Remove the oil pressure switch and use the handle (like a air hose blower) to fill the galleries. Make sure your oil filter is on when you do so. My tank will gold about 1.5 quarts. I'll see if i can find a picture.
05-09-2011, 04:39 PM
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05-09-2011, 04:46 PM
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my method is usually this..
fill the crankcase with 1/2 the oil i am going to use
with filter off pressure fill the center using 1/2 of the half
with wet filter on use the other half in the oil sender
i have used this on many stock type builds builts as well as on race builds that have lots of oil line to fill up for coolers and external filters
Works very well, and oh yeah oil flys a long way at 135 psi so let off the blower handle well before you want to stop!
fill the crankcase with 1/2 the oil i am going to use
with filter off pressure fill the center using 1/2 of the half
with wet filter on use the other half in the oil sender
i have used this on many stock type builds builts as well as on race builds that have lots of oil line to fill up for coolers and external filters
Works very well, and oh yeah oil flys a long way at 135 psi so let off the blower handle well before you want to stop!
05-09-2011, 05:50 PM
#7
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easy way is put a pressure gauge in line somewhere
or my old school method is wait for the cam / push rod area to get wet by looking in the valve covers.
The general idea is to not start one with empty oil galleries or oil cooler lines some assembly lube has a tendency to act as a plug at low temperature. With my race engines i actually have a T with a quick disconnect and pressure gauge i screw into the oil sender port and leave until after initial startup. But then again i am talking well north of 10k for the block and rotating assembly so a extra 10 minutes wet priming the system is well worth it.
or my old school method is wait for the cam / push rod area to get wet by looking in the valve covers.
The general idea is to not start one with empty oil galleries or oil cooler lines some assembly lube has a tendency to act as a plug at low temperature. With my race engines i actually have a T with a quick disconnect and pressure gauge i screw into the oil sender port and leave until after initial startup. But then again i am talking well north of 10k for the block and rotating assembly so a extra 10 minutes wet priming the system is well worth it.
Last edited by 944V8inDFW; 05-09-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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05-09-2011, 06:52 PM
#8
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You can push oil up and into the pump with the oil filter off. To do so, the crankcase needs to be pressurized with the only route of escape being through the pickup tube. An air compressor would make the job easier and you could use the dipstick or crankcase vent to introduce the compressed air. I've done it by connecting a clean piece of vinyl tube to the crankcase vent and blowing in (this might not work if you have weak lungs). Once oil started to pour out, I installed the oil filter and went on to starting the car. With this method, the engine built oil pressure immediately, just as it would when starting after an oil change.
I had also tried pouring oil into the base where the oil filter attaches, cranking the car with the ignition disabled and even started the car for a few seconds. None of these methods worked for me.
I had also tried pouring oil into the base where the oil filter attaches, cranking the car with the ignition disabled and even started the car for a few seconds. None of these methods worked for me.
05-09-2011, 07:51 PM
#10
Pull the spark plugs, pull the oil filter, and use an air compressor to put about 20psi thru the dipstick. Use the starter to crank the engine. With no spark plugs it will turn over very easy. I'd suggest also disconnecting the coil and injectors. Did this and had the pump primed in about 15 seconds. Oil will not come shooting out.
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05-09-2011, 09:12 PM
#11
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i usually just coat everything w/ assy. lube when i put the car together and fill w/ oil. Then pull the DME relay and crank till the pressure comes up. Then start w/ DME installed.
05-09-2011, 09:29 PM
#12
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That's what I've done. Maybe 15 to 20 few-second bursts with the starter. Then I had oil pressure. Replace DME and start 'er up!
05-09-2011, 11:40 PM
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05-10-2011, 08:16 PM
#15
Be patient. I use assembly lube on everything. Pull the plugs and DME. I usually pull the coil wire too. Fill the crankcase and start cranking. It might take a couple of minutes. Just don't overheat the starter. I've pour oil in the filter housing but not sure it helps much.