fwb42

This weekend I put rebuilt cv's on both sides. Found a great deal at O'Reilly's. $70. exchange. I torqued to the required 31 ft/lbs but wondered if that was correct. Seemed a little low. About 1 hour per side but 5 hours cleaning all the grease off the trans.

pkt1213

well I am going to go pick up an 86 turbo this week with no motor. Any problems with axel interchangabilty?

pontifex4

Joe, can you explain this? This could account for what I experienced when I did mine with new bolts (that is, it seemed to take a lot of turning at nearly 30 pounds before I finally hit the click on my wrench, and it was too much for one of the bolts).

fwb42

I don't think grease on the threads would make any difference. 30 ft/lbs is 30 ft/lbs. The grease on any thread would help to eliminate uneven friction from one bolt to another,giving you a more equal torque on all bolts.

dillon410021

I think the only problem would be if you swapped cv joints because you have to get the one with the right spline count.

Joe Jackson

Grease, oil, and anti-seize all lower the coefficient of friction between the bolt and tapped hole/nut. Torque values are assigned for a fastener only as a (sometimes very loose) approximation of bolt stretch/clamping load. Torque is created by the friction between the bolt and tapped hole/nut threads and the underside of the bolt head on the washer or part surface. If you think about that, you'll see how friction plays a huge part in what clamping load results from the applied torque. It also explains why for critical applications (like cylinder heads) Porsche is very specific about the lube to be used on the threads, verifying that the washer under the head of the nut does not turn, and the finishing torque is spec'd by angles, not Newton*meters/ft.*lbs.

In most cases, whether threads are lubed or not will have virtually zero affect on the parts being mated; the exact clamping load is not critical and the torque value is conservative for what the fastener can handle. CV joint bolts and their required torque are pushing the limits of what an M8 tapped hole can handle (grade 8.8 bolt torque values are only 15 ft.*lbs., M10 hardware is usually used where 30+ ft.*lbs. is required).

So to conclude, 30 ft.*lbs. is always 30 ft.*lbs. but the resultant clamping load/bolt stretch (what really matters) is most certainly NOT the same.

pkt1213

ok. It's back in town now. From looking at it in the pooring rain or monsoon or whatever the f this is, it looks like none of the bolts broke but they all backed out. For reasons too hard to explain here it would have been tough to get it off the trailer at my house.

My question is, 5 of the 6 bolts are present, could I put these in and get it the 4 or 5 miles to my house if I take it real easy?

86 951 Driver

I would say you would be fine. But I would defintely get some new bolts to use and put those in. Someone was selling bolts that had fasteners to not allow them to backout.

pkt1213

Yeah. I tried to order some this morning and paypal suspened my account pending verification of my address. WTF? I've lived at the same place and had stuff shipped here for 6 year. They're on my **** list now too.

fressssssh

Yes, you could. Easily. Just no hard driving. I had to drive my car back on only 2 cv bolts before and made it with no ill effects. And it was atleast a 20M trip back.

Joe Jackson

For a gentle drive back home, go buy whatever grade (preferably 12.9 or 10.9) of 8mm socket head cap screw (50 or 55mm length, can't remember which) you can get to replace the missing bolt and torque it to ~15 ft.*lbs. along with re-torquing the remaining fasteners to 30 ft.*lbs. That should get you home without issue. Hopefully the half shaft was not damaged by driving the car with those bolts loose. If the wheel side half shaft is damaged, you could be looking at quite a big job to swap it out (requires replacing the rear wheel bearing unless you get really lucky).

pontifex4

Thanks for the detailed response, Joe. Sorry to drag the thread off topic.

To the original poster, be sure that you completely clean the heads of those bolts out before putting them back in. Just like Allens, twelve points will strip easily if you can't get the bit in far enough.

JimV8

You guy's should really look at Ideola's Garage Stage 8 locking bolts. The design doesn't allow them to back out.

pkt1213

Well I got it back on but I didn't drive it home. I had 3 good bolts, one missing, one broke and one bent. The bent one gave me some problems getting it out. It moves under it's own power now though. I left it at my grandparents since I have their truck. I have a 3 car garage but one has my truck on jack stands with the front spindles at the shop. The others have my lift kit and parts for the truck nice and neatly laid out and my roommate has stuff in the other. I got my Stage8 bolts ordered, well this morning and I just called paypal to have them unlimit my account, and I am hoping they'll be here by Tuesday when I get back so I can install and drive home. I did get lucky and even to bolt that broke the end of it wasn't still in transmission side threads.

I'm not sure exactly what to check on the CV shafts to see if they're still good. The look fine except there was some grease slung on to the heat shield by the exhaust.

Dimitri_Antoniou

when i blew the trans axle to bits in my 85 every single cv bolt had backed out. none broke though. it was very strange! but its okay i got a limited slip trans axle with 74,000 on the clock for $350. shifts like a dream.