Rebuilding Ball Joints - Possible to do on the car?
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All,
Currently have the 944 up on jack stands to replace timing belt, water pump, etc. I checked my ball joints and can see they need replacement. My question is whether it is possible to do this with the control arms on the car - or is it easier (and wiser) to remove the control arms.
I'm trying to avoid having to send the car for an alignment since this was unexpected and I'm on a tight budget - but I want to do it right (even if the cost hurts a bit).
Joe M.
1989 944S2
Currently have the 944 up on jack stands to replace timing belt, water pump, etc. I checked my ball joints and can see they need replacement. My question is whether it is possible to do this with the control arms on the car - or is it easier (and wiser) to remove the control arms.
I'm trying to avoid having to send the car for an alignment since this was unexpected and I'm on a tight budget - but I want to do it right (even if the cost hurts a bit).
Joe M.
1989 944S2
#2
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Easier with arms removed. You can dab a little paint on the tie rods and the caster blocks to put the car back together and still be in alignment.
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Would I remove the castor blocks with the control arm? And if so would this not preserve the adjustment? Any preference of ball joint kits?
Joe M.
1989 944S2
Joe M.
1989 944S2
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Remove the caster bolts first and leave the blocks on the arms. Spray a little soapy water on the sway bar where it passes thru the drop link bushing for lubrication and rotate the arm outward so the sway bar slides out. Remove the pinch bolt and tap the arm a few times, the ball joint pin will slide down out of the spindle. Remove / install them in that order, just like that and you shouldn't have any realignment issues.
Get the Rennbay Track Kit... I hear its the best kit out there.
Get the Rennbay Track Kit... I hear its the best kit out there.
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I've heard the rennbay kit is very good...
Another couple of questions:
I've heard that the inside of the control arm can get ruined by worn ball joints digging into the wall. How much damage is too much and the control arms cannot be rebuilt?
How can I tell if the rubber bushings are worn and need to be replaced? This would be a great time to replace them regardless, but I have a budget and will only replace them at this time if necessary.
When I remove the control arms, will the steering knuckle just dangle, or does it need support?
Thanks,
Joe M.
1989 944S2
Another couple of questions:
I've heard that the inside of the control arm can get ruined by worn ball joints digging into the wall. How much damage is too much and the control arms cannot be rebuilt?
How can I tell if the rubber bushings are worn and need to be replaced? This would be a great time to replace them regardless, but I have a budget and will only replace them at this time if necessary.
When I remove the control arms, will the steering knuckle just dangle, or does it need support?
Thanks,
Joe M.
1989 944S2
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I replaced my ball joints in my '86 about a year ago with Pelican Parts rebuild kit. It was $137.99 I believe. Very high quality for a great price. Pain in the butt to do this job..
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#8
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I've heard the rennbay kit is very good...
Another couple of questions:
I've heard that the inside of the control arm can get ruined by worn ball joints digging into the wall. How much damage is too much and the control arms cannot be rebuilt?
If you notice excessive wear in an ovular fashion, then you have a wear problem. Also, if the new ball pin slides around easily in the pocket, you have a problem too.
How can I tell if the rubber bushings are worn and need to be replaced? This would be a great time to replace them regardless, but I have a budget and will only replace them at this time if necessary.
Just replace them with new rubber ones, it's cheap, and you might as well if you are redoing the other stuff.
When I remove the control arms, will the steering knuckle just dangle, or does it need support?
The strut will hold the spindle on.
Another couple of questions:
I've heard that the inside of the control arm can get ruined by worn ball joints digging into the wall. How much damage is too much and the control arms cannot be rebuilt?
If you notice excessive wear in an ovular fashion, then you have a wear problem. Also, if the new ball pin slides around easily in the pocket, you have a problem too.
How can I tell if the rubber bushings are worn and need to be replaced? This would be a great time to replace them regardless, but I have a budget and will only replace them at this time if necessary.
Just replace them with new rubber ones, it's cheap, and you might as well if you are redoing the other stuff.
When I remove the control arms, will the steering knuckle just dangle, or does it need support?
The strut will hold the spindle on.
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The Ritzblitz post is good advise. You can do it without removing the control arm, but it's easier if you do. I did the Rennbay replacement ball joints about 5 year ago. Car is lowered and I Club Race it. No problem so far with the kit. If you are going to lower the car, get the longer ball joint kit. Is the car currently lowered? If not, you probably do not have any control arm damage. If you have the original rubber bushings they need to be replaced. If for street use, new rubber is OK. If you are going to track the car, no. Replace the rubber with solid bushings. The knuckle will stay put when you pull the ball joint pin out. You need to decide what you want to do with the car, track, serious autocross or street. Then buy the suitable parts.
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Car is for street use - weekend fun on the local back road twisties - that sort of thing. I might try doing a few DE events at the track, but nothing serious.