What is the average cost (time) to install rear torsion bars on the 944 turbo?

Thanks for your help.

Lane

 

Not hard, but time consuming. Been awhile since I pulled mine apart. I didn't replace my torsion bars. I converted the rear to coilovers. Much easier. You say install. Is the car already apart, are you upgrading?

 

well officially i buy the car in two weeks. I left the owner my deposit while I arranged trasnsportation and he has the rear hatch frame repaired. I found out he has already changed the front suspension out to the M030 setup along with the rear shock. But he did not do the rear torsion bar or sway bars. There is a pair of Turbo S rear torsion bars for sale on here. I was goin to get them to balance out the suspension. Good idea, bad idea?

Thanks
Lane

 

It was a long day in the garage doing my torsion bars. The hardest part was the fused on bolts that took some heat to get off.

 

Balancing out the suspension is a good idea. However, if I were going to set up the car I would not do it with the torsion bars if I was required to pull them to match the front. I'd pull the old torsion bars out and put in a rear coilover set up, matching the rear spring rates with the front. The problem with the torsion bars is indexing them to get the correct ride height. It can be done, but if you get it wrong you'll have to take them out and do it all over again. When you get the car, see what you have up front, springs, struts and sway bar. If they are satisfactory for your purposes, then look into what you need to upgrade the rear to match the front.

 

Last time I did a set was 4 or 5 hours. If you pop the caps off the carriers, drill a hole in the body for the bar to come out and weld nuts on the end of the t-bars you can set the ride height faster than you can with coil overs.

 

that's if u want to drill a big 2" hole in your body panel...

otherwise, u'll have to either drop the whole rear suspension off the car, or drop the trailing arm one side at a time.

 

while i agree that holes would speed the process up i doubt it would be faster than coilovers. all i have to do is loosen a set screw and turn the spring perch. (x2)

 

I've heard of this before. Is there more information on it somewhere?

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. The front suspension is M030 coilovers. But regular 88 sway bars and rear suspension is stock 88. If the difference between M030 torsion bars and regular 88 Turbo bars isnt enough to bother with the effort I will just stay with what I have. I truely wanted to keep this car as close to original as possible. Its just in too nice of shape. I was thinking of just upgrading the sway bars to M030 and the torsion bar. Then upgrade the brakes and call it a day.

 

Not a lot more to add. I bought nuts to weld on that match the threads on my slide hammer.
Start out by jacking the car up until the rear wheels are at 'full droop', put the t-bars in. Set the car down and measure the result, this is the max ride height.
To adjust the ride height you repeat the above procedure except with less than full droop of the rear suspension when you put the t-bars back in.

 

For a small adjustment coil overs might be faster. I've spent more time spinning perches than indexing t-bars. The coil overs are particularly slow to get set initially on low spring rate springs when you have to use the perch to compress the spring. Either way you are talking minutes not hours.

 

What is a good coil over set up for the rear? I mean what/where to buy.

 

i got mine from paragon:
http://www.paragon-products.com/30_S...s-rear_kit.htm

front and rear:
http://www.paragon-products.com/Coil...ni_cup_kit.htm