Torsion bar removal
03-02-2011, 03:44 PM
#1
Torsion bar removal
I am going to a coil-over setup in the rear and need to ditch the torsion bars. Does anyone have or know where there is a write-up or instructions on removing the bars without dropping the whole unit? I have been told you can cut a small hole on each side of the car and slide them out fairly easily. This is a track only car so cutting a hole in the body is no big deal. Any tips or instructions would be appreciated.
03-02-2011, 04:15 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Sorry the carrier has to be dropped.
03-02-2011, 04:20 PM
#4
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
its not too bad to drop the whole assembly anyways...iirc theres like 10 bolts total lol. apply penetrating oil, leverage and four-letter words and it will come out
03-02-2011, 05:07 PM
#7
disconnect spring plate from trailing arm. unhook brake line. drop the trailing arm from the carrier. then carrier can be convinced to move enough to get end plate off.
i don't know that it's any simpler than dropping the whole assembly...but that's how i did it.
i don't know that it's any simpler than dropping the whole assembly...but that's how i did it.
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03-02-2011, 07:41 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
I just went through this hellish procedure the last couple of days to install delrin bushings.
To save yourself from dropping the whole torsion bar carrier, I removed all the bolts on one side, and all the bolts but the big one in the side of the car. This one bolt acts as a pivot where you can drop the other side down enough to get the torsion bars out. This doesn't save you too much, but maybe makes it a bit easier getting the assembly back in place. It helps to jack up the assembly by the shock mounts, as this relieves some of the binding on the rubber bushing in the side of the car. You can then easily pry down the one side to get the bearing carrier off.
Getting rid of the torsion bars will save you a lot of time for reassembly, as that seems where I spent most of my time getting those suckers at the right angle.
To save yourself from dropping the whole torsion bar carrier, I removed all the bolts on one side, and all the bolts but the big one in the side of the car. This one bolt acts as a pivot where you can drop the other side down enough to get the torsion bars out. This doesn't save you too much, but maybe makes it a bit easier getting the assembly back in place. It helps to jack up the assembly by the shock mounts, as this relieves some of the binding on the rubber bushing in the side of the car. You can then easily pry down the one side to get the bearing carrier off.
Getting rid of the torsion bars will save you a lot of time for reassembly, as that seems where I spent most of my time getting those suckers at the right angle.
03-03-2011, 08:33 AM
#9
Drifting
Join Date: May 2008
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There was a write up a while ago where someone cut holes in the body of their car so they didn't have to drop the carrier (I believe the 911 guys do it quite often). But they're not small holes - IIRC, they're at least 4" in diameter.
The early 924 cars had the hole with a plug from the factory.
The early 924 cars had the hole with a plug from the factory.
03-19-2011, 06:01 PM
#12
I couldn't find any pics or write-ups anywhere so here's what I was looking for...
All you have to do is unbolt the shocks and sway bar end links to let the trailing arms droop as much as possible. Then cut through the spring plates about 2 inches from the end. This is pretty thick (about 3/8 of an inch) and will take a few good recip saw blades.
Then drill a 1 1/2 inch hole in the body and the torsion bar will slide right out.
I found some 1 1/2 inch stainless caps at the hardware store to plug the hole in the body and the end of the spring plate to clean things up and keep the chipmunks out.
The entire thing took me about an hour including bolting up the new coilovers. The only drama I had was when the drill bit in the hole saw broke and I gouged the **** out of my paint. Luckily it is a race car and I could care less.
All you have to do is unbolt the shocks and sway bar end links to let the trailing arms droop as much as possible. Then cut through the spring plates about 2 inches from the end. This is pretty thick (about 3/8 of an inch) and will take a few good recip saw blades.
Then drill a 1 1/2 inch hole in the body and the torsion bar will slide right out.
I found some 1 1/2 inch stainless caps at the hardware store to plug the hole in the body and the end of the spring plate to clean things up and keep the chipmunks out.
The entire thing took me about an hour including bolting up the new coilovers. The only drama I had was when the drill bit in the hole saw broke and I gouged the **** out of my paint. Luckily it is a race car and I could care less.
03-20-2011, 07:21 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
