Where Else Can I Find Switched +12V ?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Where Else Can I Find Switched +12V ?
I've got my MAF power wire running up into the fuse box and tied into the fuel pump fuse for switched +12V.
I'm about tired of looking at that - need to clean that up...
Anyone know where I can find another +12V source in the engine bay?
The Vitesse intstructions indicated that I *may* be able to find it at the test port - but none of those ports shows +12V in my car.
I'm about tired of looking at that - need to clean that up...
Anyone know where I can find another +12V source in the engine bay?
The Vitesse intstructions indicated that I *may* be able to find it at the test port - but none of those ports shows +12V in my car.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Ignition coil is a switched 12V, the trigger signal is on the ground.
Test port, gauge pass thru (on firewall just behind the test port), and many other sources inside the engine bay... I can double check the FSM diagrams when I get home...
You could also tap a relay into the radiator temp sensor power lead, and use the relay to switch 12V right off the battery!
Test port, gauge pass thru (on firewall just behind the test port), and many other sources inside the engine bay... I can double check the FSM diagrams when I get home...
You could also tap a relay into the radiator temp sensor power lead, and use the relay to switch 12V right off the battery!
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Dillion - I've already been through that with my multi-meter. I 'assumed' the one port would be 12V during the install based on John's directions and my car would barely start. Once I got the MM out, there was something like +6V hitting that port, so no wonder. Apparently, in true Porsche fashion - not all cars have the same voltage to the various test ports...for whatever reason...
For the coil - are you recommending just pulling the plug wire off the top and wiring the MAF power wire right into that?
For the coil - are you recommending just pulling the plug wire off the top and wiring the MAF power wire right into that?
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Dillion - I've already been through that with my multi-meter. I 'assumed' the one port would be 12V during the install based on John's directions and my car would barely start. Once I got the MM out, there was something like +6V hitting that port, so no wonder. Apparently, in true Porsche fashion - not all cars have the same voltage to the various test ports...for whatever reason...
For the coil - are you recommending just pulling the plug wire off the top and wiring the MAF power wire right into that?
For the coil - are you recommending just pulling the plug wire off the top and wiring the MAF power wire right into that?
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#9
Nordschleife Master
Any 12 V relay, and an in line fuse, run the switched lines from the battery to the MAF, tap the trigger wires for the relay into the coil hot line.
Maf shouldn't pull more than 1-2A, so size your fuse appropriately, and the relay can be 10A...
install can be as clean and hidden as you like to make it!
You could also tap directly into several 12V lines on the firewall going to the pass thru for the gauges...
Maf shouldn't pull more than 1-2A, so size your fuse appropriately, and the relay can be 10A...
install can be as clean and hidden as you like to make it!
You could also tap directly into several 12V lines on the firewall going to the pass thru for the gauges...
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Jon - would this work?
Looks like this covers both the relay and fuse in one shot. Judging from your response the white wire would go to the battery positive and the black wire goes to the +12v on the coil which triggers the relay to close the loop and send power to the MAF when they key is turned?
Looks like this covers both the relay and fuse in one shot. Judging from your response the white wire would go to the battery positive and the black wire goes to the +12v on the coil which triggers the relay to close the loop and send power to the MAF when they key is turned?
#11
Nordschleife Master
Thanks Jon - would this work?
Looks like this covers both the relay and fuse in one shot. Judging from your response the white wire would go to the battery positive and the black wire goes to the +12v on the coil which triggers the relay to close the loop and send power to the MAF when they key is turned?
Looks like this covers both the relay and fuse in one shot. Judging from your response the white wire would go to the battery positive and the black wire goes to the +12v on the coil which triggers the relay to close the loop and send power to the MAF when they key is turned?
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
okay, got the relay in the mail today - two wires seem fairly obvious given the conversation - but there are 3 relay wires...anyone wanna take a guess how I should wire this thing up?
I'm guessing red to the battery postive terminal, black to common ground somewhere and yellow goes to the ignition coil positive. Not sure what I'd do with the other two leads - just tape them off, I guess.
I'm guessing red to the battery postive terminal, black to common ground somewhere and yellow goes to the ignition coil positive. Not sure what I'd do with the other two leads - just tape them off, I guess.
#13
Burning Brakes
I'm not entirely sure what you're trying to do, but I think it's to power the MAF using the switched power wire from the coil? Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you need to connect 85 to ground, 86 to coil wire, 87 to battery, and 30 to MAF. Connecting 86 to the battery would cause terminal 87 and 30 to always be connected, meaning the relay is purpose defeating... at least that what it looks like from that diagram. And you're still going to want to run a fuse inline.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Chris - it's been a long day, I have the flu (and my kids do too...)...I was approaching this backwards. Yes, I think that might work.
Yes, it's to power the MAF - trying to clean up our wire mess post-turbo job.
If the MAF won't pull more than an amp or two - what size fuse should I get? 5A?
I'm assuming that fuse should be spliced into the wire that goes from this relay to the MAF?
Yes, it's to power the MAF - trying to clean up our wire mess post-turbo job.
If the MAF won't pull more than an amp or two - what size fuse should I get? 5A?
I'm assuming that fuse should be spliced into the wire that goes from this relay to the MAF?
#15
Nordschleife Master
OK, connect 86 to the power feed to the coil, the other side to ground (use a big resistor as you dont want to ground out the coil feed)
30 to battery with an in line 5A fuse, 87 to the MAF, 87A not connected to anything!
Turn on the key and it should supply 12V to the MAF... turn off key and 12V should also turn off.
30 to battery with an in line 5A fuse, 87 to the MAF, 87A not connected to anything!
Turn on the key and it should supply 12V to the MAF... turn off key and 12V should also turn off.