choinga

drats. That setup didn't work. Car turns over but won't run. Not sure what the deal is...I run the power wire back into the fuel pump fuse, starts up just fine.

I also checked my test port again. I have 10.3V in that port. I used it originally and as I mentioned, the car ran like **** until I realized that was the issue (to troubleshoot I just ran power directly to the battery and it worked fine).

Any other ideas?

John - you point out that junction box looking thing at the firewall on the drivers side. I took that off and see a gaggle of wires in there - any idea where there color code's for those are? Is that the the same as what's coming off the DME? I also can't figure out how to easily get the plastic piece those wires are protected by out of there...I don't want to break that thing trying to open it up to get access.

onspeed

Confirm with a multimeter that the coil gets 12v with ignition on? If so, then make sure terminal 87 and 30 both have 12v as well. If 87 doesn't then there's a fault with wiring, if 30 doesn't then the relay is broke. If the coil isn't a switched power line... well you just wasted some time then, but I would assume that joka knows what he's talking about.

You could try connecting 86 to other switched lines in the engine bay area.

bw993

The +12V from the coil is really too noise to use for any MAF and could lead to issues with the MAF output.

JohnKoaWood

Hence the reason to isolate it from the coil power lead with a relay.. a noise filter (capacitor) would also work to fiter the noise and be a 12V passthru, but that is a little more in depth than really needed, it is easier to switch a relay using a known good 12V source....

I will pull out my FSM schematics when I get home and find you switched 12VDC at the gauge pass thru, FWIW look for the Scivision MAF install instructions as this is where they say to pick up the 12V signal... the instructions also detail getting the plastic cover off, and which wire is switched power at that connector!

Found it... step 23
http://www.maxhpkit.com/promax_maf_kit_install_944t.pdf

choinga

Thanks John.

Any idea what that red/yellow wire is? Seems a little strange that they have you pulling that and tying that into what appears to be the MAF ground wire (MAF black) and then replacing the red/yellow wire in the harness with the one needing switched +12v?

bw993

My MAF is getting switched +12V from power connector to the CV. Real easy to do since you are using a MBC.

Bri Bro

1+ ...Cycling valve has clean power and it is fused, The coil feed is NOT fused and as stated, will have noise on it.

The gauge of the 12V wire at the test port is not very large and will not carry much current. With the low voltage you measured at the test port, I would check fuse (17) for damage, it is the fuse to the test port. If it is OK, the wire could be damaged.

choinga

ah, interesting...i've deleted my CV...maybe I'll break into that connector and use it. Good stuff!

Bri Bro

Just put a male tab (spade) terminal on a wire, plug it into the engine harness CV plug, tape it up (heat shrink), run it over to the MAF and away you go. I cable tied the new wire to the CV harness right behind the plug for strain relief. You don;t want the terminal pulling out of the CV plug if you yank it.

JohnKoaWood

AH, didn't even think of the CV, mine has been long gone, as has the harness connector!

choinga

...CV worked like a champ...nice and clean to.

MM951

Nice! We had the same problem, so I'm also going to use this fix.