Instrument cluster lights, LED replacement
So, I was able to get my cluster back in the car today after changing all the lights to LED. As promised I have made a simple diagram of the layout of the lights viewed from the rear of the cluster and determined the polarity of all the contacts where the bulb sits.
The only one I did not ID is the one that has no coloration in the "tabs"
The polarity of the instrument illumination LEDs does not matter as they arent polarity specific.
Here's the diagram

I am not positive if all of these are 100% correct as I was unable to start the car to test certain ones, and I didnt think about testing the brake fluid level or hand brake light... but I tested with my polarity detecting test light and was able to get one polarity or the other on the pads, most of them coming up as positive where indicated. The lights are much brighter now for sure.
I also replaced the light for the clock (digital) and the positive pad is one the bottom for those that want to replace the bulb with an LED.
The LED's I used were (I used cool white for both the indicators and gauge face lights):
Qty 16 (bought a few spares):http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...s%2F74_t15.htm
Qty 4 (again a spare):http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...%2FWLED-x5.htm
To replace the cigarette lighter bulb and the ashtray bulb, you can remove one of the T1.5 LED's from their bases and use as a direct replacement.
All of the T1.5 bases are marked with a white dot on one side. That dot is indicating the positive side of the LED, the bases will need a slight modification (use an exacto knife or dremel or something) to go into the cluster and the clock. You will be able to tell what is needed when you take them out...
Good luck!
The only one I did not ID is the one that has no coloration in the "tabs"
The polarity of the instrument illumination LEDs does not matter as they arent polarity specific.
Here's the diagram

I am not positive if all of these are 100% correct as I was unable to start the car to test certain ones, and I didnt think about testing the brake fluid level or hand brake light... but I tested with my polarity detecting test light and was able to get one polarity or the other on the pads, most of them coming up as positive where indicated. The lights are much brighter now for sure.
I also replaced the light for the clock (digital) and the positive pad is one the bottom for those that want to replace the bulb with an LED.
The LED's I used were (I used cool white for both the indicators and gauge face lights):
Qty 16 (bought a few spares):http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...s%2F74_t15.htm
Qty 4 (again a spare):http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...%2FWLED-x5.htm
To replace the cigarette lighter bulb and the ashtray bulb, you can remove one of the T1.5 LED's from their bases and use as a direct replacement.
All of the T1.5 bases are marked with a white dot on one side. That dot is indicating the positive side of the LED, the bases will need a slight modification (use an exacto knife or dremel or something) to go into the cluster and the clock. You will be able to tell what is needed when you take them out...
Good luck!
I have replaced the interior lamps (glove box, dome, hatch, and under hood) and the 3 instrument panel lights with S/B LED's. I like them a lot. The mistake I made with that is, in the 968 6-speed, I used blue.
I do like the color, but I will eventually change to white.
Contrary to what some people claim (esp. a certain blowhard that is in charge of 968forums) I am able to adjust the brightness of the dash, and see the gauges well.
I did not change the smaller bulbs, I had already ordered some standard replacements and I actually did not know about S/B LED's til after that.
I did replace the bulbs in the 3rd brake light on the 6-spd 968, as most were burnt out and cost a bunch, and couldnt find at a parts store. I think they are an odd size. Can't remember if the 968 Tip 3rd brake light was done.
I tried to do the brake lights, but the cruise control senses the LED bulbs as burnt out and the cruise cannot be set. I need to order 3 of the electronic flasher units and do all the cars.
I believe that the bulbs I used were polarity specific though.
I do like the color, but I will eventually change to white.
Contrary to what some people claim (esp. a certain blowhard that is in charge of 968forums) I am able to adjust the brightness of the dash, and see the gauges well.
I did not change the smaller bulbs, I had already ordered some standard replacements and I actually did not know about S/B LED's til after that.
I did replace the bulbs in the 3rd brake light on the 6-spd 968, as most were burnt out and cost a bunch, and couldnt find at a parts store. I think they are an odd size. Can't remember if the 968 Tip 3rd brake light was done.
I tried to do the brake lights, but the cruise control senses the LED bulbs as burnt out and the cruise cannot be set. I need to order 3 of the electronic flasher units and do all the cars.
I believe that the bulbs I used were polarity specific though.
To do the brake lights, you need to add a resistor wo the circuit. That will cure your problem. S/B LED's has them from what I remember. I do not have this problem as my car does not have cruise
Bumping this. OP's diagram is a good one...as near as I can tell. Haven't been able to check the fuel warning light, or high coolant temp warning... but everything else works good.
The bases that SuperBrightLEDs supplies don't fit our clusters very well, but they can be modified to fit. Its very easy. Just have to trim the plastic "stop" off, as it won't allow you to twist the bulb into position.
I went with an extra bright red LED for the ! Achtung light. Its now very bright, and very noticeable, as it should be. I also got a blue and a green light for both the signal flasher, and the "brights" light. I don't know if it made any difference, but the green is extra green, and the blue is extra blue.
The bases that SuperBrightLEDs supplies don't fit our clusters very well, but they can be modified to fit. Its very easy. Just have to trim the plastic "stop" off, as it won't allow you to twist the bulb into position.
I went with an extra bright red LED for the ! Achtung light. Its now very bright, and very noticeable, as it should be. I also got a blue and a green light for both the signal flasher, and the "brights" light. I don't know if it made any difference, but the green is extra green, and the blue is extra blue.
Hi guys. Know this is an old thread, but wanted to say, the LEDs from superbrightleds.com that are the "B8.5D Instrument Panel" bulbs fit fine. At least the brake pad warning, coolant, turn, "!", and other instruments light work.
By the way, the "big three" LEDs are "WLED-xHP15-TAC" from the same website. Those illuminate the cluster as a whole (from the front). Still, buy the illumination tunnel thing from Ian - it's a good idea and when my cluster needs it, I'm getting it.
Question though: There is one more LED spot which is not accounted for on this diagram - on the LEFT side of the cluster (right on the back view above, see how the left side is a "diamond" shape of four LEDs and the right side is a "arrow" of only three? There ar four positions though...) - the "bottom most" LED. Why.. is that not required for these cars? I forget what it is but I did shine my flashlight through it and already forgot LOL
Thanks
By the way, the "big three" LEDs are "WLED-xHP15-TAC" from the same website. Those illuminate the cluster as a whole (from the front). Still, buy the illumination tunnel thing from Ian - it's a good idea and when my cluster needs it, I'm getting it.
Question though: There is one more LED spot which is not accounted for on this diagram - on the LEFT side of the cluster (right on the back view above, see how the left side is a "diamond" shape of four LEDs and the right side is a "arrow" of only three? There ar four positions though...) - the "bottom most" LED. Why.. is that not required for these cars? I forget what it is but I did shine my flashlight through it and already forgot LOL
Thanks
Last edited by PsychoRallye; Jan 9, 2013 at 11:52 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot...
I do believe you can test all the lights in the cluster using the # 17 and 18 pins. When I replaced my 3 main bulbs with LEDs there were instructions on how to do this. Unfortunately, I tossed those instructions. I used a 9volt battery and alligator clips to successfully test the lights.
Trending Topics
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for in the 928 forums and haven’t found - specifically the panel circuit polarities and the power and ground pins for testing. The clusters look the same to me at first glance, and I’ll be able to test it in a couple of days. Thanks especially for the great photos.
The diagram from the OP seems to be missing from the original post. I know this is an old thread that was recently resurrected ...does anyone have a copy of the diagram they can share? Thanks!
Does anyone have a copy?
Thanks, jeyjey. That’s a terrific post with great photos, but I’m looking for the diagram that shows the polarity of the sockets at the rear of the cluster. I’m hoping to avoid having to flip the new LEDs once the cluster is plugged in. The OP did a “here’s the diagram with polarity”, but the attachment or link is no longer there.
Does anyone have a copy?
Does anyone have a copy?
anyone can chime in with some info please?




