St3mpy

Ok, so I traded my 1996 Saab 900 Turbo for a 1984 944. I'm still learning the car, so go easy on me. I just replaced a leaky clutch master cylinder, but I'm having some other issues. The main thing I'm worried about are the fuel lines that lead to the fuel rail. They are hose clamped on and leaking slightly. This can't be right, as I don't think any fuel injected car came with fuel hoses clamped on to the fuel rail. What type of connection should be there? And where could I find a part like this?

Also, the engine shutters when I'm pulling from a stop. I assume it's the engine mounts, but it's always a good idea to get opinons from people who know these cars. The rest of the issues I'm having are smaller items, or things I know what are wrong (such as a bad inner tie-rod on the driver side).

Thanks in advance.

Matt

St3mpy

Oh, one other thing. I noticed that my vacuum hose was popped off the vacuum canister in the driver side fender. The strange thing is, the other hose attached to it just dumps into the atmosphere. Anyone know why this is, or what it should be hooked up to?

choinga

Fuel line replacement and motor mounts are a couple of the first few things folks do with "new to them" 944/951's.

Fortunately, the fuel line is pretty easy - the motor mounts are a bit more challenging as you have drop the crossmember and support the engine up top to get them in/out.

If your fuel lines are leaking - don't drive. The design of the lines is pretty bad...not to mention draping them over the exhaust manifold...

I used the Lindsey kit - they have instructions on how to do this as well. One thing to keep in mind if you go this route...you have to torque the hell out of those compression fittings to get them to seal. I thought I had them down tight and started the car and fuel starts spraying all over the place in the wheel well. Get them as tight as you can get them and then get another half turn out of it.

V2Rocket

for the record the early cars have lines running up the drivers side, under the brake booster, better location than late cars.

i did the front end fuel line replacement with the early rennbay kit (http://www.rennbay.com/fuel-hose-rep...7a8b4386cdbe87) and it took maybe 15 minutes...make sure you block off the feed and return lines at the gas tank though, otherwise gas will leak everywhere

St3mpy

So is the hose clamp connection stock? Or the result of a poor repair?

Grandpa#3

The Fuel Dampener Line should be connected with a screw on nut at the rail. The Fuel Pressure Regulator, IIRC, is held on with a compression fitting. Check out Clark's Garage.com for maintenance help as we all use it. Since you just replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder you should also replace the Clutch Slave cylinder as it will fail shortly due to higher pressure from the Master cylinder. The line between should also be replaced. It might look good on the outside but deteriorates on the inside and swells. As for the Shudder could be the right Motor Mount, but check out the 2nd link.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm

http://www.the944.com/shudderm.htm

Cheers,
Larry

Marajit

Tell me. Did you have to remove the brake booster in order to gain access to the hard lines? I am about to do the same fuel line replacement on my '84 and can't see any other way around it. Seems it would take more than 15 minutes.

Also, what do you mean by blocking the lines at the tank? I suppose you mean pinch the rubber lines shut.

Grandpa#3

If you use vice grips to pinch the lines closed be sure to wrap tape around the jaws to prevent damage to the rubber hose.

Cheers,
Larry

Marajit

Wise advice, Grandpa.

BTW, also ex-USAF here.
Once stationed at the base in Albany.

Mike C.

It isn't necessary to remove the brake booster. When I replaced these hoses (many moons ago), I undid one or two of the clamps that hold them to the firewall so I could move them away a bit. Carefully using a small cut-off wheel, the outer portion of the swage is cut away which allows the old fuel line to be pulled off. If done carefully, you will be able to re-use the swage joint but use a screw clamp when you put the new hose on it. This repair has worked for at least 10 years on my car.

V2Rocket

+1 on unclamping from the firewall.

in the kit that rennbay sells you they give you a pipe-cutter wheel thingy and you just pinch it onto the hard line and spin it around a few dozen times and it cuts through the pipe cleanly. you dont need to save the swage, the new line kit has compression fittings you just slide on and tighten down

Mike C.

Nice. There was no Rennbay when I did mine; hell there was barely any internet then...

V2Rocket

might be time to do them again then

Mike C.

ha ha.. yea good point..

Marajit

Be that as it may, undoing the fastener that holds the hard lines under the car (not the firewall on an '84) will still not allow you sufficient clearance behind the brake booster to cut the lines cleanly and much less to access the connecting fittings in the kit in order to tighten them with a suitable degree of confidence.

Whoever says they did this without removing the brake booster must have a magic trick up their sleeve or care little for the safe replacement of this critical component, which stands out as yet another example of not so brilliant engineering by the manufacturer.

Interestingly, the PET for the '85 models show that two connecting pieces ( 477 209 169 and 477 209 161) were added to the hard lines approximately under the driver's seat in order to correct this glaring engineering mistake.

I am reasonably certain the seller of this kit (http://www.rennbay.com/fuel-hose-rep...7a8b4386cdbe87) is aware of this predicament and perhaps chose not to mention it in their installation instructions, to make it seem like an easy 15 minute job.

While you're at it, and having to remove the brake master cylinder and lines from the booster, it is an excellent time to replace the brake fluid in the system.