Brake Bias Valve Question
#3
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EDIT - Correction/clarification: The 33bar valve will have higher rear line pressure than the 18bar valve, above 18 bar.
Last edited by Oddjob; 01-31-2011 at 10:08 AM.
#4
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It will give you more rear brake - proportionally. This could be a good thing or could be a bad thing, depending on conditions..... Lawyers like less rear brake. If you hit something head on it is your fault. If you spin and hit something you can blame the car, not your ability.
That's it - the rears work more, so overall braking is improved. Less chance of front lockup at a given brake pressure, but a greater chance of rear lockup. With this valve braking in a straight line you will still lock the fronts first, but the rears will be doing more work.
Yes, it is. In my opinion, the proportioning valve, a set of Pagid Orange pads and a set of 968 cooling vents will get most drivers all the braking power they would need. If you have substantial power increases on your car, you might think about the bigger calipers, but I dislike them due to weight considerations.
Regards,
Regards,
I know I don't need bigger calipers. I just want the most from what I have.
What started this process was an ealier thread about ABS. I don't have ABS to prevent lock-up and from what I've learned, the 5/33 would improve the braking and slow the front lock in a panic stop scenario.
Also, can the bias valve be changed w/o bleeding the brakes or losing fluid?
What started this process was an ealier thread about ABS. I don't have ABS to prevent lock-up and from what I've learned, the 5/33 would improve the braking and slow the front lock in a panic stop scenario.
Also, can the bias valve be changed w/o bleeding the brakes or losing fluid?
Actually, wet roads are where you normally won't get rear lockup. The better overall grip the less rear brake bias is needed.
The reason why OEM is so far from optimal is because rear lockup can be a very bad thing. How the brake bias is supposed to be set to get optimal balance vary greatly depending on alot of factors. But mainly road conditions. The factory setting is ment to be fool proof even with the wrong tyres or wrong air pressure etc on the best gripping asphalt in the world. Even then it has a bit of safety margin. In the rain or specially on snow, you will need ALOT more rear braking balance to stop efficiently. This is one more reason ABS will stop your car faster in daily driving, it gets the right balance instantly in "all" conditions.
Get a adjustable valve and you will be able to fine tune it just the way you want. Even change it depending on road conditions or mechanical changes on your car.
Regards:
Eirik Kvello-Aune
www.944968.com
The reason why OEM is so far from optimal is because rear lockup can be a very bad thing. How the brake bias is supposed to be set to get optimal balance vary greatly depending on alot of factors. But mainly road conditions. The factory setting is ment to be fool proof even with the wrong tyres or wrong air pressure etc on the best gripping asphalt in the world. Even then it has a bit of safety margin. In the rain or specially on snow, you will need ALOT more rear braking balance to stop efficiently. This is one more reason ABS will stop your car faster in daily driving, it gets the right balance instantly in "all" conditions.
Get a adjustable valve and you will be able to fine tune it just the way you want. Even change it depending on road conditions or mechanical changes on your car.
Regards:
Eirik Kvello-Aune
www.944968.com
I got rear (and front) lockup after replacing bias valve with 5/33 on track. on street the brakes felt superb with new bias valve. some way I think there's air left in Abs unit, which makes in work strangely... what is your opinion?
Would love to keep 5/33, because car handling (if it wouldn't lockup) would be almost perfect in braking now.
rear disc felt almost hotter than fronts (of course rear disc is much smaller than front at the moment), so they're definitely working now aswell.
p.s. car has 996TT 330x34 fronts and OEM rear brakes.
Would love to keep 5/33, because car handling (if it wouldn't lockup) would be almost perfect in braking now.
rear disc felt almost hotter than fronts (of course rear disc is much smaller than front at the moment), so they're definitely working now aswell.
p.s. car has 996TT 330x34 fronts and OEM rear brakes.
after changing to 5/33 with my big front brakes, i went to wider rear tires (275s) without changing the fronts... i can force a little bit of front lockup in the wet, and just the slightest bit in the dry if i press on hard below about 10 mph.... but i have a set 255s to put on the front wheels after the 225s finally wear out.... i imagine this the result will be still more breaking power and any potential for lockup would be shifted toward the rear..... this is one reason why corvettes always do well braking. they run those gigantic front tires.
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I know the 5 means 50% and 18 means 18 bar, but is at a 50% reduction in the original brake pressure or 50% of the original brake pressure less the 18 bar?
#7
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It means that up to 18 bar there is no reduction, and beyond 18 bar each additional bar is reduced by 50% (technically it is actually 46%). So 28 bar with no valve would change to 18+10/2 = 23 bar with proportioning valve. For the 5/33, there is no reduction until over 33 bar.
40 bar applied pressure
5/18 = 29 bar rear
5/33 = 36.5 bar rear
40 bar applied pressure
5/18 = 29 bar rear
5/33 = 36.5 bar rear
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#11
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Paragon Products sells them - search on brake limiting valve.
http://www.paragon-products.com/Brak..._p/944tblv.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/Brak..._p/944tblv.htm
#12