pete944

I replaced the clutch master & slave cylinders last week but broke the brake fluid reservoir removing the blue hose. Paragon got me the new brake reservoir before the weekend as promised. Today was the day to bleed them. I know that anyone who’s done this will say what a nightmare this is but it went real easy with the Motive power bleeder. Here is the procedure I used.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Don’t do item 3 until you do this.
2. Jack up vehicle and use good quality jack stands.
3. Remove starter.
4. Disconnect hard line to slave cylinder. (Use a flare wrench so you don’t round off the fitting) Remove old slave cylinder.
5. Install new slave cylinder and reconnect hard line from master cylinder.
6. Disconnect push rod from clutch master cylinder to clutch pedal.
7. Move to engine compartment and disconnect hard line to clutch master cylinder. Carefully disconnect blue hose from brake fluid reservoir. You may have to cut it. Don’t break the connecting barb on the fluid reservoir. (It’s easy to do, ask me how I know)
8. Remove 13mm nuts holding clutch master cylinder to firewall. Use a 3/8” universal joint to get at them, if you don’t have one, buy one before you start. You’ll never get these off without it.
9. Connect a new blue hose to the clutch master. (Paragon has it for $3.00) Install new master cylinder.
10. Use a brand new turkey baster filled with fresh brake fluid and inject it into the blue hose to the clutch master cylinder before connecting it to the reservoir to get the fluid into the clutch master and slave.
11. Connect the blue hose, top off the fluid reservoir, connect the motive bleeder to the brake master cylinder, pump it to 10 lbs, and listen for leaks.
12. Fill the bleeder with brake fluid, pressurize to 25 lbs. and let it fill the system.
13. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch slave, put the other end into a clean jar and open the bleeder valve. A lot of air and fluid should shoot out of the tube. Close bleeder.
14. Pump up the pressure again to 25 lbs. or so and open the bleeder again. Repeat until there are no air bubbles. (It only took two times for me)
15. Sit in the car and pump the clutch pedal a few times. You should see a few air bubbles rise through the tube from the master cylinder to the bleeder.
16. Replace the starter, remove the power bleeder, reconnect the battery, adjust the clutch free play as specified in the Haynes manual, road test and your done.

Maybe I should write for Haynes!
Now if I can stop that !@#$%^ power steering leak!

tifosiman

Thanks Pete! Man, ya didn't ask me to come by and help??? Sounds like ya didn't need me anyway. My car came home this weekend, so today I spent a good part of the day washing and cleaning. Glad to hear the bleeding went OK for you.....

When does all of the 968 and/or 951 test-driving begin??? I'm ready to help with that as well .

Tifo

Bob S. 1984 Silver

And folks wonder why on the other thread about what kind of new model Porsche should build, one of my suggestions is to dump the hydraulic clutch...Welcome to the club!!!!!

Fun, ain't it..Like my wonderful wife has said while watching me work on the '44: "Gee, Hon, it looks like if you can see it, you can't reach it, and if you can reach it, you can't see it..."

Bob S.

P.S. Excellent summary..Hope you don't scare TOO many folks!!<G>

"Mechanical linkages may bend or break, but at least they don't spray fluids all over everything including the carpets."

pete944

Hey Tifo, glad you finally got your car back. Mine was up on jackstands for a week and it was driving me nuts. I don't know how Perry can handle it.

If I can fix the little annoying things on mine this winter, the test driving may start in the spring. I'm still thinking S2 but you never know.