Andre

ok #1 in that pic are A/C hoses?so if my A/C isn't working i can just permanently remove those right?

and what is #2?

SoCal Driver

I wouldn't remove the AC lines if you want to recharge the AC or want to re-sell the car in the future. Working AC adds more to the resale value.

The item 2 is part of the idle control and smog system. Has to stay.

You definitely want to replace the blue line that goes to the clutch pedal master cylinder.

Andre

well the A/C is not working, and i can always reinstall them, i jsut wanted comfirmation that those actually WERE the A/C lines, thanks.

also i can just dicconect the #2 stuff and then connect it the same way after right...nothing wierd in there that i shoudl watch for?

SoCal Driver

Item 2 stuff can be moved out of the way as long as you get it back and tight.

If you remove the AC stuff it opens the system to corrosion meaning you may not be able to just put the AC stuff back and get it to work.

Andre

oh ok, thanks for the tip, however i am looking at the master cylinder and its visually fine, i dont see any leaks or anything like that. the porblem i was experiencing was at wot at around 5k or so even in first gear the car woudl jerk hard and stop accelerating and then i would totally lose power. In 2nd it happened at about 4500 or so, a little lower than in 1st, i THINK it might be the clutch slipping?!?so i figured it was the master since i have a new clutch(less than 10k) and a new slave....but now i'm not too sure, i saw some moisture in the driver side footwell so i thought that was from the master but when i looked closer it wasnt coming from the cylinder. ideas?

SoCal Driver

Loss of power at high rpms is usually not the clutch slipping. This could be the rev limiter in the DME coming in a bit early. Usually clutch slipping is noticed when you start out hard in gear and the engine starts to over rev while the car goes no where.

If you are having a hard time getting the car into gear from a stop or in routine shifting and the clutch pedal feels spongy then I would look first at the clutch pedal master cylinder. The blue hose you have in your pictures goes from the reservoir on the brake master cylinder to this clutch cylinder lower on the fire wall.

If the clutch is NOT spongy and you still have problems getting the car into gear it could be your clutch disk rubber center coming apart and wedging between the pressure plate, disk and fly wheel. Usually you have the strong smell of burning rubber.

IF the clutch stuff is all good then it could be the shifting linkage coming loose at the trans or even the syncros starting to go.

Andre

yea the clutch is new, spring centered, the pedal feels "soft", easy to push in. its defenetly not the rev limiter because i know what that sounds like and this has no sound, it just jerks. also i thought tha tclutch slippage is most extreme in higher gears at 4-5k rpm.

the blue hose is a little ripped but no worries, its not cracked, i had to take if off the res when i was doing the clutch a year ago andacidentally ripped some of the fabric

SoCal Driver

Hmm, new clutch a year ago?

How much free play do you have in the clutch pedal before the push rod contacts the clutch cylinder?

Don't know of any clutch problems that would result in a jerking at high rpms. Only slipping at low rpms.

Andre

there is a good amount of play, abour 1.5-2 inches.
why would the clutch slip at low rpms and not high, i figure the clutch would slip most in like 5th gear at about 5500, cuz there is a lot of power coming from the engine and its really hard to move the car in 5th gear....no?

pete944

[quote]there is a good amount of play, abour 1.5-2 inches. <hr></blockquote>

According to the book you should only have about 3mm or 1/8" free play at the pedal.