lower running temperature
10-27-2002, 05:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: South Carolina
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lower running temperature
I thought I would post my cooling expierience with my 968.
After having read almost every post about the running temperature and cooling fan operation of these cars I decided it was time to diagnose my warm running car. Once I determined that the fans themselves and the relays were operational, my solution is below.
Solution, a lower temperature thermostat(71 C), lower temperature thermoswitch (85/92), redline water wetter, and phophate free Prestone with distilled water. I had no troubles with the bleeding of the system and the thermostat only took an hour or so, once I broke the handles off my snap ring pliers and used some channel locks to grip the handles.
Results:
Even with heavy throttle in second gear going up a mountain grade the car never gets above the first white mark, where as it used to climb to half way and above.
The key is utilizing the radiator before the fans cut on, when changing out to a lower temperature thermoswitch, it is imperative that you also replace the thermostat as the fans will cut on before the original thermostat will open (due to the thermoswitch being located on the inlet of the radiator) causing further problems in the cooling circuit as the fans help to eliminate any temperature gradient at the pump to open the thermostat.
To those with hot running cars you can gain piece of mind by performing this simple fix.
I would also suggest that you clean the fins of the radiator as well, to insure that you are maximizing the use of the radiator.
It was also interesting to note that I when I tested my old thermostat it would only open when the water was actually boiling (100 C) as opposed to 85 C.
After having read almost every post about the running temperature and cooling fan operation of these cars I decided it was time to diagnose my warm running car. Once I determined that the fans themselves and the relays were operational, my solution is below.
Solution, a lower temperature thermostat(71 C), lower temperature thermoswitch (85/92), redline water wetter, and phophate free Prestone with distilled water. I had no troubles with the bleeding of the system and the thermostat only took an hour or so, once I broke the handles off my snap ring pliers and used some channel locks to grip the handles.
Results:
Even with heavy throttle in second gear going up a mountain grade the car never gets above the first white mark, where as it used to climb to half way and above.
The key is utilizing the radiator before the fans cut on, when changing out to a lower temperature thermoswitch, it is imperative that you also replace the thermostat as the fans will cut on before the original thermostat will open (due to the thermoswitch being located on the inlet of the radiator) causing further problems in the cooling circuit as the fans help to eliminate any temperature gradient at the pump to open the thermostat.
To those with hot running cars you can gain piece of mind by performing this simple fix.
I would also suggest that you clean the fins of the radiator as well, to insure that you are maximizing the use of the radiator.
It was also interesting to note that I when I tested my old thermostat it would only open when the water was actually boiling (100 C) as opposed to 85 C.
