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Steering shaft U joint replacement.

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Old 12-21-2010 | 06:30 PM
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When did you purchase it? 944 on line is the only place that seems to have them and they are $295.

Pelican and others no longer stock them. I will try my local dealer just to see what they say.
Old 12-21-2010 | 06:37 PM
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Last year. Send them an email (Jeff Clark). I'll see if I can find the invoice.

It was P/N 945.347.027.00 (Right hand drive). $85.91

Cheers,
Mike

Last edited by mikey_audiogeek; 12-21-2010 at 10:57 PM.
Old 12-21-2010 | 07:06 PM
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Found it: Attachment 498217

Last edited by mikey_audiogeek; 09-19-2012 at 11:54 PM.
Old 12-22-2010 | 06:34 PM
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That is a great Price!!!!
Old 12-23-2010 | 01:43 PM
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Looking further around for the replacement bearings Granger seems like a possible option. I am going to have to get mine out and apart to measure things up first.
Old 12-23-2010 | 04:00 PM
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I want to remove the shaft from th eu-joing up and replace it with a longer shaft. Anyone try this?
Old 12-23-2010 | 04:50 PM
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for manual conversion?
Old 12-24-2010 | 10:48 PM
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I swapped shafts today (with a used one) so now I have mine to look at and see about the replacement bearings. I was looking at the shaft where it connects to the yoke of the U joint and it appears to be a press fit on to the shaft and the shaft look to be splined. So I would say that tentatively yes you can probably separate the Yoke from the shaft by pressing it apart. The trick is going to be getting a shaft that is longer that has the same spline count (I have not counted then yet but I would assume it is the same as the other end (40???) I think (to much eggnog at the moment to remember for sure)

I am now going to see about pressing out the bearings from the U joints and then measure them up. The next thing will probably be to clean up the bores where the bearings are staked in place. Depending on what bearings I find I may end up taking the them to accept what I find for bearings. This will probably be the best way as it would ensure a good clean tight fit and take care of the knurling from where the old bearings were staked in place.
Old 12-24-2010 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean924s
I was looking at the shaft where it connects to the yoke of the U joint and it appears to be a press fit on to the shaft and the shaft look to be splined. So I would say that tentatively yes you can probably separate the Yoke from the shaft by pressing it apart.
I think you'll find that the ends of the shaft have a "deformation" on them that you'll have to grind or cut off before the u-joint yokes can be pressed off. The factory really didn't design them to be taken apart.

It all can be done... but sometimes there are just more rational (and cheaper) alternatives.
Old 12-25-2010 | 12:24 PM
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Old 01-02-2011 | 08:07 PM
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I was thinking about the U joints. Is it possible that if you disconnect the power steering in your car that the U joints will not last as long as you are putting significantly more loading on them as opposed to when the power steering is working?

Ya I know I am probably over thinking this.. . ..
Old 01-02-2011 | 08:47 PM
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I think you are correct that the loading will be greater with PS not working (faster ratio, less mechanical advantage, higher effort required compared to (intended) manual steering). If you could quantify how much extra loading it should be possible to calculate the effect on bearing life (statistically speaking). I learned to do this a long time ago in a machine design engineering class but I sure don't remember now...
Old 01-02-2011 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike C.
... If you could quantify how much extra loading it should be possible to calculate the effect on bearing life (statistically speaking). I learned to do this a long time ago in a machine design engineering class but I sure don't remember now...
You look up the L-100 life at the new load, with 0 RPM; Torrington and others have these in tables.
Old 01-02-2011 | 11:03 PM
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Old 12-05-2011 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean924s
I am not trying to upgrade I am trying to come up with a way to use new parts to make the repair. I was thinking that the VW steering u joints could possibly be an option. It is really a simple part to fabricate and since I have the equipment needed to make the part I thought it may be a good option.

The math as I see it. (worst case)

1. 2 universal joints (VW based) will cost about $70
2. a piece of 5/8 steel rod (about 18 inches long) $20
3. Two grade eight nuts and bolts $5 (ya I know but it makes the math easy)

How hard could it be to take the old one out make a jig based on the original so the orientation of the U joints are maintained and the overall length of the piece is the same. Then lay in the jig the new U joints and the steel shaft. Drill a hole through the steel rod to accept the bolt from the new U joint. I would also weld them in place as well. Welding and bolting is a "belt and suspenders" type fabrication but considering it is a steering component it would make me feel better.

I have found "new" complete shaft assemblies at 944online but they are approaching $300. I have asked around about used ones but considering the age of them now (20 plus years in some cases) coming up with a way to use new or rebuilt parts seemed to be an option worth exploring. But yes used is definitely an option. If some one had one I would be interested.

If I can get the specs on the splined shafts I can then see if the u joints are off the shelf VW parts. If they are available fabrication of the part is simple. Once I made one I could easly make 10.
Hi Dean,

have you gone ahead on that one?

Best,
Thorsten


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