Will Feather

Just like a regular old driveshaft u-joint...

Dean I am in MA too, let me know if I can assist you in any way.

Dean924s

Not hard or complicated but it has to be done correctly with the proper equipment. Big U joints in drive shafts are easy as they are.. . well.. . . bigger and the yolks are much more robust. These are in the middle. Harder than a Drive Shaft but doable. The other extreme is the stamped Yokes that the Japanese use. Basically a disposable unit.

Dean924s

You are about 30-40 min from me. I will keep it in mind. How are you with power tools? LOL The biggest thing with this is the prep. The the very final step is the install of the new U joint.

Will Feather

Yes, I am familiar with the process, I have replaced more than a couple u-joints in subaru steering shafts. I know this is not much of a complicated job, hence not really needing help, but any way I can support a good effort I will.

Dean924s

Prototype done works perfectly!!!! I will post Pix later. I did not paint it. I only cleaned it up with a bench grinder with a wire brush on it. (good enough for my track rat 924s) . I wanted to make sure everything fit. I am not really worried about pretty. This is a proof of concept. I still have to stake the bearings in place but that will only take 5 min.

I am going to celebrate with a nice Cheese steak!!!!! I am hungry (no lunch)

EDIT:

Couple of Photos

porshaowner

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180915162689...84.m1555.l2649

hope that works.

Dean924s

Ya saw that last night. $110 and then you have to install it? or have it installed.

I am actually thinking that I may put 4 small tack welds to the Yoke to hold the bearing cups in place. It would be easier neater and faster than staking. One of the real PITA with staking is that it is very easy to move the U joint out of center in the bore of the yoke. A quick couple of tack welds just to provide an interference fit so the bearing cap can not back out is the way I am going to go. I am not worried about the heat on the bearings as there is no plastic in there. They are metal only roller bearings in the cap. The only rubber bit is the gasket on the inside spider that protects it from dirt getting in there and a quick couple of tack welds will not get enough heat to it to damage anything.

Hay this is why it is called prototyping

Dean924s

Anyone got a used up (in need of rebuild) steering shaft that they would like to part with? I will pay shipping and a little bit of $$$. I need another one to mess with. PM me here or email me at dsmith@ radio.fm

Dean924s

I did a little more tinkering with this and I actually found that I had one of the bearing cap installed such that one of the roller bearings had come loose inside the cup. This meant that the cup would not seat properly and that the seal between the bearing cap and the center section was not properly seated. I removed the U joint and installed a new one. Anyway I think I have this sorted. I have ordered another 20 U joints that should be shipping on the 15th. I had a question for all of you. I have two choices on how to secure the U joints.

Option #1 is to re stake them like the factory. I did this to the one I just finished and trying to remove the newly installed U joint proved that it works. The newly installed U joint was equally as hard to remove as the old one I took out. But I am thinking I have a better solution.

Option #2 (the possible better solution) The second option is to place a washer over the end of the bearing cup / cap's and tack weld it in place with 2 - 3 tacks. Since there is no plastic or metal inside the bearing cups the heat will not damage anything. Since I am welding from the Yoke to the washer and not to the cup its self the heat transfer will also be greatly reduces and the mass of the yoke will absorb most of the heat away from everything. Just to be careful I would make a tack and move on to the next and keep rotating around the unit till I had them all done. I would then dress down the welds with my grinder, dremel, or probably a hand file would actually be the best. and paint everything back to flat black. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

If it was to go on your car what would you want?

MAGK944

Dean, the Borgeson yoke and bearings measure identical to stock. The bearing caps on the Borgeson are stamped "Torrington DB79757".

These may be a direct fit from a US supplier. Might want to give Torrington a call.

Dean924s

Do those have a rubber seal between the bearing cap and the center X piece? I actually found a supplier of similar units here in the states BUT . The units I am getting are designed from the get go to be used for this purpose. I can get other U joints that are virtually identical but they are not specifically designed for steering shafts. From what I can tell they are for farm equipment / lawn tractors. I am not willing to use this type of U joint in a vehicle. Not that they will not work I am just not willing to experiment with them when I can get the real deal.

Van

Dean, I sent you an email, but don't know if you got it:

Dean924s

I did not get it. I sent you a PM. I agree with your comments. I think a reamer is a really good idea. I will have to look at that.

MAGK944

No rubber in them plus I accurately measured them and they match stock dimensions. Here's a close up:

Dean924s

Grit and dirt will get in there and kill those bearings eventually. I suspect that those are not designed from the manufacturer to be used for that purpose.