Robert D

How on earth do you get the inner tie-rod off? What is it a 30mm?!? PAIN IN MY !!! Just spend 2 1/2 hrs trying to loosen the stupid thing...I guess I'll go by a box-wrench that fits <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

Robert D

I hate buying one-time-use tools....

Ken

A huge adjustable wrench worked for me. If you're getting rid of the old tie rods, you can just put a big pair of vice grips on them to get them off. Just be more careful with the ones you put on.

Tom Carson

but if they will be core returns...don't damage them with the vice grip...use a piece of rubber or rag or sumptin

Carl Nall

Careful with the pinion gear in the rack! You don't want apply too much torque to the tierods without keeping pressure off the gear. You need to expose about three inches of rack gear teeth area to hold steady while you torque off/on the tie rods. It's a lot easier with the rack out.

triscadek

Are the outers hard to get off without hurting the grease sack? I've got new tie rod boots to put but was worried about the sack during removal.

Carl Nall

With a small tie-rod puller ("compact" @ Auto Zone) you can easily pull the end without touching the dust boot.

Robert D

I went and bought a better crecent wrench...I was so temped to just get the 32mm 2.5 foot long combination wrench though.

Carl Nall

Robert D,

FYI, I had the 84 aligned and ride height adjusted at the Northcross location - it turned out super! The tech, Franky, took a lot of time talking about what setup I wanted, how he would protect my Fuchs from the alignment apparatus, etc. The rear is a full inch lower, the toe and camber numbers are all in spec (reasonble amounts of extra camber). The rear sits just under an inch lower, just about perfectly level.

On the road again!

Rich Sandor

I've done this recently, and one was still the OEM original, the other had been done when the Tie rods were updated.

There is a nut at the end of the Tie rod end, which may have rusted itself into the Tie rod end. You may have to soak, and I mean SOAK them with WD40, get out the wire brush, AND use a hammer as a ghetto impact wrench to get the nut movin'. That's what I had to do.

Robert D

Nah I got it all apart and back together with the new full tie-rod assembly. I was having trouble with the inner tie-rod...finding something 32mm to get it with.
Thats awesome Carl, did you invest in the lifetime $130 alignment so you can bring it back in after fiddlin with stuff ? I sure did!
I'm taking it in tomorrow morning before class, I cannot wait to have the steering wheel straight again!
Carl, I need to have my rear-wheel bearings replaced. I'm not about to tackle it with finals coming up next week...who do you recommend? I've heard a lot about moorespeed (as well as they are expensive)...what about the dealer?

Ahhh so close to having the car ride right again...now I need bushings and a wheel!

dek944

Thats cool, just two days ago, I received my tie rod in the mail from paragon, wow, if u look at their prices now, from a week ago, everything went up like 15 dollars. Besides that the one I ordered was for the manual steering, and i didnt realise that until I took off the old worn out one. What a waste of time, so I should receive the new one soon. Im not sure what you mean by the inner tie rod part, but if thats the part where the ball joint is at, isn't it 19mm? Where is the 32mm part located at?

Carl Nall

Robert D, the alignment is lifetime deal. I paid $124.99 which included extra time spent with ride height adjustments. Your price should be $89.99 plus tax. They charged Surya a total of $95.00.

As for the bearing work... when I have to use a repair shop I've always used Northwest Imports Auto

<a href="http://www.nwimports.com/contact-austin-auto-shop.php" target="_blank">http://www.nwimports.com/contact-austin-auto-shop.php</a>

but they're far north 183/McNeil Rd and run a little expensive. Sorry, I don't know good shops in South Austin.

Good luck

Mr. Avionics

Ok Guys,
I got my new tie rods and boots this Monday and if the weather cooperates will tackle that job this weekend. Here are a few questions.
I take it that a HUGE 32mm open wrench is required to take the inner ball joint off the rack, ok, but how do you hod the rack from putting too much torque on the pinion? Next question, when I put the new ones on, about how much torque is required on the new ones? Question number three. What is the toe in specifications for our cars, want to get it close till I get a chance to take it in for a full alignment. And finally is there any "supprises" that I may find during this whole process, things that are un expected, problem children ect.
Just want to know.
Bill

ERAU-944

you can get the outers off without touching those grease boots. my alignment guy showed me how when we installed the new tie rods. take off the nut/cotter pin, then bang a couple times on the outside of the spindle where its holding the tie rod end, and they fell right out, it made me want to crap my pants how easy it was!!