xpost: DIY Projector HID Setup for ~$200
11-11-2010, 05:24 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Thanks guys, i just finished up the passenger side and i'll get some pictures tonight!
The problem i'm having with the high beams is that the bulbs i'm using don't actually have a "bright setting" per se, when you turn on the brights there is a solenoid that removes the cutoff (a small metal piece that blocks the top half of the light) so you end up with a wide-open projector. Since my bulb is wired to the low beam, when you turn on the brights the projector opens up and the light goes out!
The problem i'm having with the high beams is that the bulbs i'm using don't actually have a "bright setting" per se, when you turn on the brights there is a solenoid that removes the cutoff (a small metal piece that blocks the top half of the light) so you end up with a wide-open projector. Since my bulb is wired to the low beam, when you turn on the brights the projector opens up and the light goes out!
11-11-2010, 05:43 PM
#18
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Connect both + (short and long beam) on hid power and only long beam + to cutoff flap, or better, add some relays so that power will not flick when you change from low to high beam.
11-11-2010, 05:45 PM
#19
yea if u got bixenons, connect the relay's positive to the headlight connector's positive connection and jumper both of them together. there might be a flicker as the switch trips from low to high...but u don't flash yer hibeams that often
11-11-2010, 08:01 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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That's basically what i just did, except i used a diode on each + to keep power from feeding back into the circuit that isn't being used (and also to keep from activating the high beams all the time).
Something isn't right though. I did the passenger side first, tested it, it worked great. Moved on to the driver side, did the exact same thing. When i tested the brights with them both hooked up, the driver side works now, and the passenger doesn't. What the heck? Both side still work on low beam.
Something isn't right though. I did the passenger side first, tested it, it worked great. Moved on to the driver side, did the exact same thing. When i tested the brights with them both hooked up, the driver side works now, and the passenger doesn't. What the heck? Both side still work on low beam.
11-11-2010, 08:11 PM
#21
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Strange. What about using direct (fused) power from battery and using existant power for relay switching?
I think that should eliminate strange problems from original wiring..
I think that should eliminate strange problems from original wiring..
11-11-2010, 09:23 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
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Alright, got 'er done!
Tell me this doesn't look cool!
I got the wiring figured out. I added a 3A diode (35W / 14v = ~2.5A necessary) to each of the high and low beam wires, then connected them both to the positive on the HID bulb. I connected the positive on the high-beam solenoid behind the high-beam diode. Here's pictures of the wiring:
Heat-shrinked and ready to have electrical tape put on:
And now....low beams!
High beams:
It's hard to tell a difference between high and low in the pictures, but it actually makes a fairly big difference (look at the sign in the distance!). Even on low the lights provide way better visibility than i had before with my brights on. I do think i need to do a little more adjusting, but so far i'm extremely happy with how these turned out! No more worrying about animals on the freeway and stuff. Woohoo!
I still haven't put the covers back on, but i have test-fit them. I've been monitoring temperatures but i don't think it's going to be an issue. Others have suggested using epoxy instead of plast-aid out of concern over the temperatures, but we'll see how the plast-aid holds up.
The final issue i ran into was that the headlight retaining rings weren't holding these light housings in place. I solved this by running a 12ga electrical wire around the rim of the ring and then installing it. Once in place you can't even see it, and it holds the headlight perfectly in place.
Anyways...enjoy!
Tell me this doesn't look cool!
I got the wiring figured out. I added a 3A diode (35W / 14v = ~2.5A necessary) to each of the high and low beam wires, then connected them both to the positive on the HID bulb. I connected the positive on the high-beam solenoid behind the high-beam diode. Here's pictures of the wiring:
Heat-shrinked and ready to have electrical tape put on:
And now....low beams!
High beams:
It's hard to tell a difference between high and low in the pictures, but it actually makes a fairly big difference (look at the sign in the distance!). Even on low the lights provide way better visibility than i had before with my brights on. I do think i need to do a little more adjusting, but so far i'm extremely happy with how these turned out! No more worrying about animals on the freeway and stuff. Woohoo!
I still haven't put the covers back on, but i have test-fit them. I've been monitoring temperatures but i don't think it's going to be an issue. Others have suggested using epoxy instead of plast-aid out of concern over the temperatures, but we'll see how the plast-aid holds up.
The final issue i ran into was that the headlight retaining rings weren't holding these light housings in place. I solved this by running a 12ga electrical wire around the rim of the ring and then installing it. Once in place you can't even see it, and it holds the headlight perfectly in place.
Anyways...enjoy!
10-16-2013, 11:55 AM
#25
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Wow! Was looking for an LED headlight solution...
Thank you for the thread!
Here's a little update! The link for the morimoto H1s doesn't work anymore so I believe I found the new link: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...oducts_id=3181
Any problems with this setup after 2-3 years? Could you please take a picture of the front of your car standing outside with lights on (Preferably at night). Just curious to see how it looks
Cheers,
Matt
Here's a little update! The link for the morimoto H1s doesn't work anymore so I believe I found the new link: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...oducts_id=3181
Any problems with this setup after 2-3 years? Could you please take a picture of the front of your car standing outside with lights on (Preferably at night). Just curious to see how it looks
Cheers,
Matt
11-05-2013, 04:49 PM
#27
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Excuse me for bumping in..... . I also want to upgrade that set of candles, it is almost scary when dark and raining.
Anyway, I did see this thread : https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...or-lights.html
The output looks amazing, but there is some cutting to be done using the FX-R Morimoto's. This can be seen here :
This projector is 5.5 inches deep (140 mm). The Morimoto above is slightly less at 5.35 inches (136mm). There is even a Morimoto Mini D2S 2.0 which is even smaller (5", 125mm).
You can even buy them in a kit containing everything you need : http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=237
It might not need cutting the bar.
. I also want to upgrade that set of candles, it is almost scary when dark and raining.Anyway, I did see this thread : https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...or-lights.html
The output looks amazing, but there is some cutting to be done using the FX-R Morimoto's. This can be seen here :
This projector is 5.5 inches deep (140 mm). The Morimoto above is slightly less at 5.35 inches (136mm). There is even a Morimoto Mini D2S 2.0 which is even smaller (5", 125mm).
You can even buy them in a kit containing everything you need : http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=237
It might not need cutting the bar.
Last edited by Dutch_944; 11-05-2013 at 05:06 PM.
11-07-2013, 08:58 PM
#28
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this is the exact route i was going to go. even bought a dremel, bookmarked the link and everything. HOWEVER, by the time i was ready to do it, a company had already put out something and saved me all the labor.
i bought a plug n play kit from dapper lighting and am happy with it. just putting it out there for people who may not want to take on the labor part.
ps. oh, and i didn't have to cut the pivoting arm to get it to fit.
i bought a plug n play kit from dapper lighting and am happy with it. just putting it out there for people who may not want to take on the labor part.
ps. oh, and i didn't have to cut the pivoting arm to get it to fit.
11-07-2013, 10:19 PM
#29
this is the exact route i was going to go. even bought a dremel, bookmarked the link and everything. HOWEVER, by the time i was ready to do it, a company had already put out something and saved me all the labor.
i bought a plug n play kit from dapper lighting and am happy with it. just putting it out there for people who may not want to take on the labor part.
ps. oh, and i didn't have to cut the pivoting arm to get it to fit.
i bought a plug n play kit from dapper lighting and am happy with it. just putting it out there for people who may not want to take on the labor part.
ps. oh, and i didn't have to cut the pivoting arm to get it to fit.