I don't plan on modding my car for a good long time...I promised my wife after I dropped about $2000 in modding my Z which I have only had little over a year!!
I hope that after I learn to drive the car well, I may up the boost just a tad but my intention is not to boost it too much. I heard the max safe boost is about 2 bar...
If I do end up buying the car, I will likely keep it to my grave, slowly increasing its power as the newer cars get better and faster......

BTW, That ad in Balt. doesnt say that its a turbo

 

Hey I also bought a 951 6 months ago ( my first Porsche ) My car did not have records with it but it was in exelent shape, I wish it did but i dont think that altomaticaly makes the car a bad buy. I agree with the fact you should make a Pre Purschase inspection witha guy that knows 944s check for when timing belt was done( I had to call quite a couple of people to find this out), inspect clutch and transmission condition and leaks. My car has been great since i bought it, I have had a couple of minor problems(slave cylinder-original was in the car, heater valve- also original, replaced the rubber for the fuel line- was old) Everything else was perfect so like i said research it and expect to replace a couple of worn parts but make sure someone already paid for the expensive ones <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

 

It was only 2 hours dude..it takes a little longer than that for people to respond..especially during the day.

Anyway, If you wanna stay near stock (little suspension work/engine work), an 88 turbo S or 89 turbo is your best bet. If you wanna go crazy and don't care about airbags or ABS an 86 is your best bet. They have forged rods rather than cast on the '87+ cars. Their offset is weird, but doesn't seem to be too much of an issue if you're going with big dollar wheels/use spacers.

outlaw952 has a '89 951 with chips, more boost, no cat and adjustable fuel pressure regulator...285hp and 335lb/ft of torque TO THE WHEELS. It keeps up with a new vette.

Normal boost is 1.8 bar on the gauge, .8 bar actually. (the 1.8 bar on the gauge includes atmospheric pressure, which is ~1 bar).

Belts...every 30k or 3 years is the interval I'd use. about $500 to have it done by a pro, but its very likely the board will convince you to tackle it yourself.

PPI is very important, little things add up. Make sure everything works as another poster said. Drive a bunch so you'll know what a good one feels like and what a not-so-good one feels like. Mileage isn't THAT important..many would rather have a high mileage maintained car rather than a low mileage, not maintained, garaged example.

Any other questions..feel free to ask...I'm really surprised by the speed that I get responses to my questions sometimes...(I'm talking 10 mins or less sometimes).

Oh...and Welcome..we are a tightly nit group. You will probably be pressured to do an autocross or two after you get a 951.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

[quote]Originally posted by nickhance:
<strong>Flight,
Thanks for the listing.. Are you sure thats a 951?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yeah, the ad didn't say it, but the photo clearly showed a 951 with the turbo front, turbo S wheels, etc. Nearly all 89 951 are M030 cars as listed too. I just called the guy but the answering machine answered. I didn't bother to leave a message. I might have some time next week to go have a look. I think it's about an hour away from here.

 

Since I have now purchaced Three 951's or been involved with the purchace I think I'm up on this..

Low milage is not a great sign of shape IMHO. I've seen way too many low mileage examples get blown up in a short time. I think that lack of use can be more detrametal than use.

look at the over all car. Paint ok, if a repaint look hard for why it's been repainted.. Stock factory old paint will have scraches in it ( don't know why ) but seems they all do esp on the roof this is normal..
The sunroof, windows, should work.. power door locks never seem to work but it's an easy fix.

motor should rev well and be keeping it's fluids inside.. Steering racks usally leak some if there is a underpan still installed look at the back for oil and fluid.

Wheels should be stock for most $ and tires should be good. The car should not have any funny vibrations at any rpm..

If the belts have been done only belive it if you have recipts if not deduct the cost of replacements.

It's a car there are no secrets alot of people swear by a PPI but I've never done one but I've twisted alot of wrenches and have a good feel for mechanical things.. if you don't then I would prob pay for one but only at a mechanic who knows these cars. a 911 mechanic won't prob a given the choice a good VW guy would be better than a 911 guy but I digress.

as for the late model cars I have to disagree having been around both the early and late model cars the early 86-87 cars are alot easier to modify and maintain as there are just more of them the same part for a later S always costs more and in the end an early car properly moded should stomp a stock S.

Matt

 

Well, it's all been said so far, but I agree with Florida 951, records don't mean squat, they only make you feel better....

If you are unfamiliar with these cars, then bring along someone who isn't.

My guess is, upon driving, you'll weigh this car against your old "sports car" and pounce on it..

Good luck.....

 

Hey Flight 951, your postings indicate you are in Northern VA..Where are you? I work in Tysons and live in Fairfax. What is the Porsche scene like in DC metro?

BTW: Holy cow the red Florida951 is quite the looker!

 

[quote]Originally posted by 2+2:
<strong>Hey Flight 951, your postings indicate you are in Northern VA..Where are you? I work in Tysons and live in Fairfax. What is the Porsche scene like in DC metro?

BTW: Holy cow the red Florida951 is quite the looker!</strong><hr></blockquote>

I live right down the toll road in Reston. There are a lot of good shops around here. I have had some good experiences and some DISASTERS at a few of them. I highly recommend Dr. John's Motorsports in Sterling. It's relatively cheap, they know their stuff, it's an easy location, and they allow me to bring my own parts. They also race three Turbo S cars on weekends.

I am not a PCA member (yet), but they often have local events including a cool car show at Reston Town center every September. Summit Point is an hour away and there are a number of road racing events there each summer.

Good luck with your search. If you need any more info feel free to email me offline.

 

Just want to kick in here with a few issues to look for.
for 86 model years, check that the headers are not cast and that they have done the factory update to accordian style headers, you will know what I mean when you see these as they literally have ribs accordian style. This is important for two reasons. one is that the cast type can crack easily and secondly, it means a big labour saving when doing the clutch as they will also have gone to a two part crossover pipe, which facillitates not having to remove the intake manifold/turbo, etc.
Most cars were done, but I have seen some that were not.
Check that the power steering fluid reservois has not been leaking from the fitting at the bottom, it's an easy fix, but if left it will damage other parts.
One other thing to consider when purchasing an expensive sports car, is not to blow your whole budget on the car, as with any used car it will need something.
Oh yah, enjoy the ride, it's one of the best there is.