DHC6

I know this have been covered already in detail, but just to recap (most of the threads are quite old):

1st it's best to change the oil to fresh oil before storage, my question is does it matter what kind of oil? I normally use Redline in my car and it seems a bit of a waste to put it in, then just take it out in the spring. So if it's just a matter of having fresh oil, then I will just get regular oil from Canadian tire and put it in for the winter.

2nd I couldn't find a conclusive answer about raising the car. I don't have another set of wheel/tires to put on it, so I don't want square tires come spring time. I use a semi track tire, so I don't want to ruin them by leaving them sit on the car for the winter. If I jack it up, where is the best place to put the stands? Also is it bad for the suspension to be "unloaded" for 6 months? If so can I suspend the car on the suspension arms to keep the suspension loaded?

I plan on starting the car every few weeks, so I don't think I need to fog the cylinders, and if I go a few months with out starting it I will pull the plus and spray a bit of oil in there to lube the pistons before I start the car.

I will probably strap the battery to a trickle charger, just to keep it fresh for the few times I start it.

I will also be looking for a car cover to go on the car as well, it will be inside a heated garage, so it's more just to protect the paint from brushing up against the car over the winter.

I will also put fuel stabilizer in the tank as well with a full tank, and I assume I should drive a bit with the stabilizer in there to get it through the system before I park it.

Any other suggestions?

ZR8ED

A suggestion with regards to the trickle charger, I have purchased a solar powered trickle charger from Cdn Tire. It can plug into the cig lighter or connect directly to the battery (I will do the latter) $14.99 on sale this week! No more electricity bill for my charger.
I happen to have a 2x3 window facing south west, so I can take advantage of this, but I thought I would mention it so that others may be able to do this. A little bit of payback to the environmentalists for driving my "human deathmobile"! I'll tell them when I plug it in I see rainbows and unicorns, and there is world peace...that is until I start the car and kill babies.

elf89

The first five years I put it away for the winter I would wash it, change the oil, put stable in a full fuel tank, pull the battery, add 5psi to the tires and put a cover on it.

The last 4 years I decided 4 months wasn't that long and just pulled it into the garage. In the spring I'd charge the battery, check the oil and other fluids, check the tire pressure and go. Didn't notice any difference. YMMV.

Either way, I've heard starting it during a long storage isn't a good idea unless you're going to drive it for 1/2 hour or so. Something about moisture collecting in the exhaust system and not generating enough heat to evaporate it. Good luck.

harrisonrick

I remove my battery and store it in the basement on a piece of wood. NEVER put a battery on a concrete floor, and do not leave it to freeze in our winter temps.

In the spring I reconnect the battery and she's ready to rock.

I put fresh oil in in the fall, and then change out filter and oil after 2 weeks of driving in the spring.

I have had my car on jackstands all winter (transaxle project) and on the tires with no ill effects either way.

J.Khan

you can get wheel dollys or wheel blocks that take the shape of the tire. by spreading out the area, it will prevent the tire from squaring up. this way your suspension will stay loaded.

I know these are pricey but I am sure there are similar products for less...http://autogeek.net/tire-supports.html

boston951

I know that I am in the minority, but I have been starting my car in storage every month for 7+ years sans problem. I make sure to warm up the engine and move it back and forth in the garage when warmed-up.

Fuel stabilizer is a great idea (even for 4 months of storage). Gas simply doesn't last like it used to. Easy preventative step.

You can also disconnect the battery for the storage period if you are willing to reprogram the radio.

As for the oil, I change it when it looks dirty. I know, I know, this is considered taboo. There were a couple of Summers that the miles were under 1K for the entire season. Seemed to be a bit excessive to change the oil - YMMV.

John_AZ

PCA on winter storage....
http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html

GL
John

docwyte

Hmm, guess I'm a bad owner then. I usually just wash the car, disconnect the battery and cover it. It's in the garage and on nice days I connect the battery and drive it...

mhr

this year mine will be on jackstands getting a new suspension shocks / struts / springs / ball joints / bushings / wheel bearings then cluster lights fix etc. At the pace I work this will eat up most of the winter storage period.

Guess I will probably change the oil, do Stabil and plug in the Ctek before starting the work.

boston951

+1

Sounds good to me Doc

harrisonrick

Last time I used gas stabilizer my car took forever to fire up in the spring...same thing with my lawnmowers.

What a bunch of crap.

I use gasline antifreeze and give her some premium. Never an issue now.

Dougs951

I just drive mine all winter, except snowy days.

Oddjob

Do whatever makes you sleep easier at night.

I dont waste the oil by changing it before storage. The theory of acids building up in used oil and etching engine components is a myth.

I do not start the car - it never gets hot enough to get the water moisture out of the oil and exhaust, so increases corrosion problems. And there is no storage issue or problem solved by periodically starting the car.

I have stored cars on lifts and on jack stands for maintenance reasons. Only concern is that the rubber suspension bushings in the control arms and trailing arms could creep/deform over time. But that is a theoretical concern, and I have never seen or actually heard of anyone that wrecked bushings by storing the car off the ground.

Tires will flat spot. Can over inflate them, which does reduce the flat spotting. The flat spots do go away after a while, when driving them and getting heat in them in the spring.

Do store R-comp track tires at moderate temps. You do not want the rubber compound to be exposed to freezing temps. So best to store in the basement in winter climates.

I have never had a gasoline problem, whether the tank is full, half, or near empty. Even with 10% ethanol, no problems ever starting the cars in the spring.